Messages in Safarifriends group. Page 20 of 23.

Group: Safarifriends Message: 40203 From: RP Sunrise Date: 12/8/2018
Subject: Re: shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40204 From: TD Date: 12/8/2018
Subject: Re: shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40206 From: Dale Maggio Date: 12/8/2018
Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40207 From: James Exler Date: 12/8/2018
Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40212 From: John Rowin Date: 12/9/2018
Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40213 From: TD Date: 12/9/2018
Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40214 From: John Rowin Date: 12/9/2018
Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40215 From: TD Date: 12/9/2018
Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40216 From: James Exler Date: 12/9/2018
Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40220 From: TD Date: 12/10/2018
Subject: Re: koni 88-1458SP1 Koni Shocks REAR
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40221 From: Robert Cosmar - Astrologer Date: 12/10/2018
Subject: Re: koni 88-1458SP1 Koni Shocks REAR
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40225 From: mel96safari Date: 12/11/2018
Subject: Re: koni 88-1458SP1 Koni Shocks REAR
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40269 From: robertcosmar Date: 12/18/2018
Subject: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall frus
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40273 From: TD Date: 12/20/2018
Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40274 From: John Shelton Date: 12/20/2018
Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40276 From: Joe Burch Date: 12/20/2018
Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40284 From: TD Date: 12/20/2018
Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40292 From: robertcosmar Date: 12/20/2018
Subject: thanks for suggestions and happy holidays
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40294 From: John Wolfe Date: 12/20/2018
Subject: Re: thanks for suggestions and happy holidays
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40314 From: Robert Lewis Date: 12/22/2018
Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40319 From: John Clevenger Date: 12/22/2018
Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40344 From: fountking Date: 12/25/2018
Subject: Re: water leak in stepwell
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40633 From: Eddie Windom Date: 1/18/2019
Subject: New To The Site
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40938 From: tleepedigo Date: 3/10/2019
Subject: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40940 From: Craig Burrell Date: 3/10/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40942 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/10/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40946 From: TD Date: 3/10/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40954 From: Craig Burrell Date: 3/13/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 40987 From: John Rowin Date: 3/17/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks Literature.pdf [1 Attachment]
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41048 From: Robert Lewis Date: 3/20/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks Literature.pdf
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41078 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/22/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41084 From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com Date: 3/22/2019
Subject: New file uploaded to Safarifriends
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41086 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/22/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41126 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/26/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41131 From: technolog1 Date: 3/26/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41132 From: Gary Smith Date: 3/26/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41135 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/27/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41136 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/27/2019
Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41137 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/27/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41145 From: James Exler Date: 3/27/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41161 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/30/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41162 From: James Exler Date: 3/30/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41168 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/31/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [2 Attachments]
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41171 From: Gary Smith Date: 3/31/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41172 From: technolog1 Date: 3/31/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41189 From: TD Date: 3/31/2019
Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41274 From: akelphman Date: 4/8/2019
Subject: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41276 From: trekker01@gmail.com Date: 4/8/2019
Subject: Re: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41277 From: TD Date: 4/8/2019
Subject: Re: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks
Group: Safarifriends Message: 41286 From: wolfe102001 Date: 4/8/2019
Subject: Re: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks



Group: Safarifriends Message: 40203 From: RP Sunrise Date: 12/8/2018
Subject: Re: shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar
Attachments :
    John:
    A little late but just read the posts regarding shocks. There was a question within them about ride height. A few years back I lost my drive shaft in New Mexico on our way to Vegas. Long story short and after a lot of research, my ride height was off by a fair amount which created an angle greater than spec of the driveshaft between the transmission and pinion. I was able to adjust it in the parking lot where we were staying. What I am saying is that the air ride height is important for more than the ride. I may be way off base but I think that was a contributing reason for my u-joint failure.
    99 Zanzibar
    Bob

    From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
    Sent: Friday, December 7, 2018 1:12 PM
    To: safarifriends Maggio dalemaggio@y.
    Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar
     
     

    Joneshd3488,

    I am sorry to say, but the front shocks (88-1490SP2) you ended up purchasing, are the ineffective outdated ones that we often try to warn members not to purchase. If you search this group, you will find numerous posts over the last 4 or 5 years regarding this topic and warnings to buy the correct shocks. If you travel in areas of the country that have a lot of heaves and poor bridge transitions, you will notice that your coach will still have a tendency to sway and porpoise, even though you have new shocks. If one uses 88-1641SP3, the sway and porpoising is literally eliminated, without sacrificing ride comfort. You at a minimum need to set your front shocks to the maximum dampening setting, this will help for a little while, but will still be inadequate, especially as the shock will naturally fatigue with age. Even though the 4 airbag suspensions, like you have, are a bit less prone to porpoising, the shocks still make a huge difference in sway control, without sacrificing ride comfort. The numbers I have posted numerous times apply to all 4 air bag suspensions, VelvetRide-torsion spring suspensions, and leaf spring suspensions. This includes the earlier Oshkosh chassis too. The only few exceptions are the Trek models, and the 8 airbag suspensions. The Kalahari models I'm not sure about, if they are on a GM chassis, then they are excluded also.

    Also, even though, with a heavier coach like yours, the difference is not that big, the rear shocks you bought are a bit harsher on the high frequency-jarring bumps. The 88-1458SP1 is smoother than the 88-1458SP2, but again this is more noticeable on older coaches which are lighter.
    I hate to be the bearer of bad news, and this is why I try to post regarding this quite often. I wish you would have asked on this group, like Bob just did.

    Bob and other members, please, DO NOT BUY THE 88-1490SP2 SHOCKS, as it will be a waist of your hard earned money. With an exception for the 8 airbag air ride coaches, everyone must order their shocks by part numbers posted on this group, NOT by make, model, chassis of your coach, otherwise you WILL end up with the wrong INEFFECTIVE shocks. You have been warned, the choice is yours...    

    So, to recap. The correct part number for our coaches, that do not have the 8 airbag suspension, are:

    Front: 88-1641SP3

    Rear: 88-1458SP1

    John
    95 Safari Serengeti 38'
    300 Cummins 8.3CTA
    6spd Allison


    On Fri, Dec 7, 2018 at 9:14 AM joneshd3488 joneshd3488@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
    [Attachment(s) from joneshd3488 included below]

    I just replaced my 2000 Zanzibar shocks in September.  These are the Koni Front and Rear shocks available from Shock Warehouse. 



    Sent via the Samsung Galaxy Note8, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

    -------- Original message --------
    Date: 12/6/18 9:30 PM (GMT-06:00)
    Subject: [Safarifriends] shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar

     

    Does anyone know the shocks that can be used with a 2000 Safari Zanzibar. I went to Freightliner today and they needed to know the chassis and what they called a shock number. I suppose they wanted the serial # for the recommended shocks on my RV. Any advice would be appreciated,


    Thanks,

    Robert and CJ



    Group: Safarifriends Message: 40204 From: TD Date: 12/8/2018
    Subject: Re: shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar
    Attachments :
      Bob,

      You are absolutely correct, and Brett has mentioned this many times in the past. I should have mentioned that to Bob, but I was too focused on the ride and shocks aspect of things, as those were the questions being asked.

      Thank you again, for bringing this important point up.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 4:12 PM RP Sunrise rpsunrise@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      John:
      A little late but just read the posts regarding shocks. There was a question within them about ride height. A few years back I lost my drive shaft in New Mexico on our way to Vegas. Long story short and after a lot of research, my ride height was off by a fair amount which created an angle greater than spec of the driveshaft between the transmission and pinion. I was able to adjust it in the parking lot where we were staying. What I am saying is that the air ride height is important for more than the ride. I may be way off base but I think that was a contributing reason for my u-joint failure.
      99 Zanzibar
      Bob

      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> on behalf of TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Friday, December 7, 2018 1:12 PM
      To: safarifriends Maggio dalemaggio@y.
      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar
       
       

      Joneshd3488,

      I am sorry to say, but the front shocks (88-1490SP2) you ended up purchasing, are the ineffective outdated ones that we often try to warn members not to purchase. If you search this group, you will find numerous posts over the last 4 or 5 years regarding this topic and warnings to buy the correct shocks. If you travel in areas of the country that have a lot of heaves and poor bridge transitions, you will notice that your coach will still have a tendency to sway and porpoise, even though you have new shocks. If one uses 88-1641SP3, the sway and porpoising is literally eliminated, without sacrificing ride comfort. You at a minimum need to set your front shocks to the maximum dampening setting, this will help for a little while, but will still be inadequate, especially as the shock will naturally fatigue with age. Even though the 4 airbag suspensions, like you have, are a bit less prone to porpoising, the shocks still make a huge difference in sway control, without sacrificing ride comfort. The numbers I have posted numerous times apply to all 4 air bag suspensions, VelvetRide-torsion spring suspensions, and leaf spring suspensions. This includes the earlier Oshkosh chassis too. The only few exceptions are the Trek models, and the 8 airbag suspensions. The Kalahari models I'm not sure about, if they are on a GM chassis, then they are excluded also.

      Also, even though, with a heavier coach like yours, the difference is not that big, the rear shocks you bought are a bit harsher on the high frequency-jarring bumps. The 88-1458SP1 is smoother than the 88-1458SP2, but again this is more noticeable on older coaches which are lighter.
      I hate to be the bearer of bad news, and this is why I try to post regarding this quite often. I wish you would have asked on this group, like Bob just did.

      Bob and other members, please, DO NOT BUY THE 88-1490SP2 SHOCKS, as it will be a waist of your hard earned money. With an exception for the 8 airbag air ride coaches, everyone must order their shocks by part numbers posted on this group, NOT by make, model, chassis of your coach, otherwise you WILL end up with the wrong INEFFECTIVE shocks. You have been warned, the choice is yours...    

      So, to recap. The correct part number for our coaches, that do not have the 8 airbag suspension, are:

      Front: 88-1641SP3

      Rear: 88-1458SP1

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison


      On Fri, Dec 7, 2018 at 9:14 AM joneshd3488 joneshd3488@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
      [Attachment(s) from joneshd3488 included below]

      I just replaced my 2000 Zanzibar shocks in September.  These are the Koni Front and Rear shocks available from Shock Warehouse. 



      Sent via the Samsung Galaxy Note8, an AT&T 4G LTE smartphone

      -------- Original message --------
      Date: 12/6/18 9:30 PM (GMT-06:00)
      Subject: [Safarifriends] shocks for a 2000 Safari Zanzibar

       

      Does anyone know the shocks that can be used with a 2000 Safari Zanzibar. I went to Freightliner today and they needed to know the chassis and what they called a shock number. I suppose they wanted the serial # for the recommended shocks on my RV. Any advice would be appreciated,


      Thanks,

      Robert and CJ





      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40206 From: Dale Maggio Date: 12/8/2018
      Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
      If you want your motorhome to ride like a Freightliner or Peterbilt, then follow their suggestions. Otherwise follow the tried and true recommendations of your fellow RVers who have already been through this. The Konis are 2 stage and preferred. My shop got them through SuperSteer. You may have to get them yourself and hand them to your installer. They have 3 ride settings, set them for the strongest response.

      -=Dale=-

      --------------------------------------------
      On Sat, 12/8/18, robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

      Subject: [Safarifriends] Gabriel Shocks
      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Saturday, December 8, 2018, 7:48 AM


      Talked to Freightliner this morning.
      They do not carry Koni or Bilstein shocks. They recommend
      Gabriel as this is the brand they put on their trucks. Any
      suggestions or opinions on this? The have shocks comparable
      to the koni shocks John recommended.
      Sincerely,Robert
      and CJ


      2000 Safari
      Zanzibar











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      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40207 From: James Exler Date: 12/8/2018
      Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks

      Group,

      I hate to spoil your "bash Freightliner" party but you do remember that Freightliner Custom Chassis makes probably half of the diesel motorhome chassis on the road don't you.

      My Journey with the FL chassis uses Sachs shocks and rides great.

      Merry Christmas to all,

      Jim Exler, Nampa, ID


      On 12/8/2018 5:03 PM, Dale Maggio dalemaggio@... [Safarifriends] wrote:
       

      If you want your motorhome to ride like a Freightliner or Peterbilt, then follow their suggestions. Otherwise follow the tried and true recommendations of your fellow RVers who have already been through this. The Konis are 2 stage and preferred. My shop got them through SuperSteer. You may have to get them yourself and hand them to your installer. They have 3 ride settings, set them for the strongest response.

      -=Dale=-

      --------------------------------------------
      On Sat, 12/8/18, robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

      Subject: [Safarifriends] Gabriel Shocks
      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
      Date: Saturday, December 8, 2018, 7:48 AM


      Talked to Freightliner this morning.
      They do not carry Koni or Bilstein shocks. They recommend
      Gabriel as this is the brand they put on their trucks. Any
      suggestions or opinions on this? The have shocks comparable
      to the koni shocks John recommended.
      Sincerely,Robert
      and CJ


      2000 Safari
      Zanzibar











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      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40212 From: John Rowin Date: 12/9/2018
      Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
      John I cannot open the pdf file on ride height. 

      John & Martha Rowin
      2000 Safari Continental 411/2’


      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Saturday, December 8, 2018, 11:01 AM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      Robert,

      I never cared for the Gabriel brand, never had good luck with them, and many in my neck of the woods use to consider them as the "welfare'' brand of shocks. To be fair, my experience with those shocks was only in light duty, not their commercial duty line.
      That said, even if they are a good shock, I have no idea of the type of valving (hydraulic dampening) they use. No one company is the same. The fact of the matter is, at least 95% of Safari owners use not only the Koni shocks, but a very particular Koni shock, that has had a TON of real life research behind it, and a TON of real life miles put on it by the MAJORITY of members of this group. That should tell you something.
      Another thought to consider, you have a, kind of, unique coach, that the shop is obviously not familiar with, so there is NOTHING WRONG with YOU buying your own shocks, over the internet and having them install the shocks (you can use the links I provided to buy them). If they don't want satisfy their "customer" and let you do that, than I would suggest to find another shop that would be willing to change your shocks. Heck, even a mobile mechanic could change them for you. It basically boils down to, it's your coach, and if you care about your coach and your ride quality that is potentially at stake, so you might want to consider being proactive.
      Speaking of proactive, I also strongly suggest that you go to the files section, find the file posted by David Bleddy (thank you David), labeled " Magnum Chassis Air Bag Ride Height.pdf " , print it out and bring it to the shop, to have them properly check for ride height. From what you stated earlier, I think it is crucial that you have this done, plus this should be checked periodically anyway.

      Please don't take this blunt post the wrong way, I don't mean to sound rude or disrespectful, but I am trying to be blunt to get the point across and make you understand, ultimately, the decision is yours. For our RV application, I cannot and will not recommend anything but Koni brand, with the particular part numbers mentioned previously.

      Also, I fully agree with what Brett stated, regarding the truck suspensions vs coach suspensions. Brett is extremely knowledgeable with these coaches and the suspensions and diesel engines, and has been at it, helping RV owners, here and at FMCA, a very very long time.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 10:49 AM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Talked to Freightliner this morning. They do not carry Koni or Bilstein shocks. They recommend Gabriel as this is the brand they put on their trucks. Any suggestions or opinions on this? The have shocks comparable to the koni shocks John recommended.


      Sincerely,

      Robert and CJ




      2000 Safari Zanzibar





      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40213 From: TD Date: 12/9/2018
      Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
      John,

      I don't know, maybe try updating your Adobe Acrobat Reader???

      I am able to open it w/o issues, Dave B. is the one who posted that file, so maybe contact him and see if he is willing to make a hard copy for you...

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sun, Dec 9, 2018 at 5:04 PM John Rowin johndrowin@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      John I cannot open the pdf file on ride height. 

      John & Martha Rowin
      2000 Safari Continental 411/2’


      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Saturday, December 8, 2018, 11:01 AM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      Robert,

      I never cared for the Gabriel brand, never had good luck with them, and many in my neck of the woods use to consider them as the "welfare'' brand of shocks. To be fair, my experience with those shocks was only in light duty, not their commercial duty line.
      That said, even if they are a good shock, I have no idea of the type of valving (hydraulic dampening) they use. No one company is the same. The fact of the matter is, at least 95% of Safari owners use not only the Koni shocks, but a very particular Koni shock, that has had a TON of real life research behind it, and a TON of real life miles put on it by the MAJORITY of members of this group. That should tell you something.
      Another thought to consider, you have a, kind of, unique coach, that the shop is obviously not familiar with, so there is NOTHING WRONG with YOU buying your own shocks, over the internet and having them install the shocks (you can use the links I provided to buy them). If they don't want satisfy their "customer" and let you do that, than I would suggest to find another shop that would be willing to change your shocks. Heck, even a mobile mechanic could change them for you. It basically boils down to, it's your coach, and if you care about your coach and your ride quality that is potentially at stake, so you might want to consider being proactive.
      Speaking of proactive, I also strongly suggest that you go to the files section, find the file posted by David Bleddy (thank you David), labeled " Magnum Chassis Air Bag Ride Height.pdf " , print it out and bring it to the shop, to have them properly check for ride height. From what you stated earlier, I think it is crucial that you have this done, plus this should be checked periodically anyway.

      Please don't take this blunt post the wrong way, I don't mean to sound rude or disrespectful, but I am trying to be blunt to get the point across and make you understand, ultimately, the decision is yours. For our RV application, I cannot and will not recommend anything but Koni brand, with the particular part numbers mentioned previously.

      Also, I fully agree with what Brett stated, regarding the truck suspensions vs coach suspensions. Brett is extremely knowledgeable with these coaches and the suspensions and diesel engines, and has been at it, helping RV owners, here and at FMCA, a very very long time.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 10:49 AM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Talked to Freightliner this morning. They do not carry Koni or Bilstein shocks. They recommend Gabriel as this is the brand they put on their trucks. Any suggestions or opinions on this? The have shocks comparable to the koni shocks John recommended.


      Sincerely,

      Robert and CJ




      2000 Safari Zanzibar







      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40214 From: John Rowin Date: 12/9/2018
      Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks

      After replacing 6 shocks (4front 2back) will my ride height need adjustment. I have yet 8 air bag system. 

      John & Martha Rowin
      2000 Safari Continental 411/2’

      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Sunday, December 9, 2018, 4:04 PM, John Rowin <johndrowin@...> wrote:

      John I cannot open the pdf file on ride height. 

      John & Martha Rowin
      2000 Safari Continental 411/2’


      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Saturday, December 8, 2018, 11:01 AM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      Robert,

      I never cared for the Gabriel brand, never had good luck with them, and many in my neck of the woods use to consider them as the "welfare'' brand of shocks. To be fair, my experience with those shocks was only in light duty, not their commercial duty line.
      That said, even if they are a good shock, I have no idea of the type of valving (hydraulic dampening) they use. No one company is the same. The fact of the matter is, at least 95% of Safari owners use not only the Koni shocks, but a very particular Koni shock, that has had a TON of real life research behind it, and a TON of real life miles put on it by the MAJORITY of members of this group. That should tell you something.
      Another thought to consider, you have a, kind of, unique coach, that the shop is obviously not familiar with, so there is NOTHING WRONG with YOU buying your own shocks, over the internet and having them install the shocks (you can use the links I provided to buy them). If they don't want satisfy their "customer" and let you do that, than I would suggest to find another shop that would be willing to change your shocks. Heck, even a mobile mechanic could change them for you. It basically boils down to, it's your coach, and if you care about your coach and your ride quality that is potentially at stake, so you might want to consider being proactive.
      Speaking of proactive, I also strongly suggest that you go to the files section, find the file posted by David Bleddy (thank you David), labeled " Magnum Chassis Air Bag Ride Height.pdf " , print it out and bring it to the shop, to have them properly check for ride height. From what you stated earlier, I think it is crucial that you have this done, plus this should be checked periodically anyway.

      Please don't take this blunt post the wrong way, I don't mean to sound rude or disrespectful, but I am trying to be blunt to get the point across and make you understand, ultimately, the decision is yours. For our RV application, I cannot and will not recommend anything but Koni brand, with the particular part numbers mentioned previously.

      Also, I fully agree with what Brett stated, regarding the truck suspensions vs coach suspensions. Brett is extremely knowledgeable with these coaches and the suspensions and diesel engines, and has been at it, helping RV owners, here and at FMCA, a very very long time.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 10:49 AM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Talked to Freightliner this morning. They do not carry Koni or Bilstein shocks. They recommend Gabriel as this is the brand they put on their trucks. Any suggestions or opinions on this? The have shocks comparable to the koni shocks John recommended.


      Sincerely,

      Robert and CJ




      2000 Safari Zanzibar





      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40215 From: TD Date: 12/9/2018
      Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks
      John,

      It would be could to check the ride height, if it is incorrect, it not only can affect ride quality, but more importantly, it can change the geometry angles of things like the drive shaft, alignment (if independent front suspension), etc.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sun, Dec 9, 2018 at 6:19 PM John Rowin johndrowin@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:



      After replacing 6 shocks (4front 2back) will my ride height need adjustment. I have yet 8 air bag system. 

      John & Martha Rowin
      2000 Safari Continental 411/2’

      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Sunday, December 9, 2018, 4:04 PM, John Rowin <johndrowin@...> wrote:

      John I cannot open the pdf file on ride height. 

      John & Martha Rowin
      2000 Safari Continental 411/2’


      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Saturday, December 8, 2018, 11:01 AM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      Robert,

      I never cared for the Gabriel brand, never had good luck with them, and many in my neck of the woods use to consider them as the "welfare'' brand of shocks. To be fair, my experience with those shocks was only in light duty, not their commercial duty line.
      That said, even if they are a good shock, I have no idea of the type of valving (hydraulic dampening) they use. No one company is the same. The fact of the matter is, at least 95% of Safari owners use not only the Koni shocks, but a very particular Koni shock, that has had a TON of real life research behind it, and a TON of real life miles put on it by the MAJORITY of members of this group. That should tell you something.
      Another thought to consider, you have a, kind of, unique coach, that the shop is obviously not familiar with, so there is NOTHING WRONG with YOU buying your own shocks, over the internet and having them install the shocks (you can use the links I provided to buy them). If they don't want satisfy their "customer" and let you do that, than I would suggest to find another shop that would be willing to change your shocks. Heck, even a mobile mechanic could change them for you. It basically boils down to, it's your coach, and if you care about your coach and your ride quality that is potentially at stake, so you might want to consider being proactive.
      Speaking of proactive, I also strongly suggest that you go to the files section, find the file posted by David Bleddy (thank you David), labeled " Magnum Chassis Air Bag Ride Height.pdf " , print it out and bring it to the shop, to have them properly check for ride height. From what you stated earlier, I think it is crucial that you have this done, plus this should be checked periodically anyway.

      Please don't take this blunt post the wrong way, I don't mean to sound rude or disrespectful, but I am trying to be blunt to get the point across and make you understand, ultimately, the decision is yours. For our RV application, I cannot and will not recommend anything but Koni brand, with the particular part numbers mentioned previously.

      Also, I fully agree with what Brett stated, regarding the truck suspensions vs coach suspensions. Brett is extremely knowledgeable with these coaches and the suspensions and diesel engines, and has been at it, helping RV owners, here and at FMCA, a very very long time.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 10:49 AM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Talked to Freightliner this morning. They do not carry Koni or Bilstein shocks. They recommend Gabriel as this is the brand they put on their trucks. Any suggestions or opinions on this? The have shocks comparable to the koni shocks John recommended.


      Sincerely,

      Robert and CJ




      2000 Safari Zanzibar







      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40216 From: James Exler Date: 12/9/2018
      Subject: Re: Gabriel Shocks

      John,

      The link in the message does not work but the file is on the Safari group web site in the files section. It works fine from there.

      Jim Exler, Nampa, ID

      On 12/9/2018 3:04 PM, John Rowin johndrowin@... [Safarifriends] wrote:
       

      John I cannot open the pdf file on ride height. 


      John & Martha Rowin
      2000 Safari Continental 411/2’


      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Saturday, December 8, 2018, 11:01 AM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups..com> wrote:

       
      Robert,

      I never cared for the Gabriel brand, never had good luck with them, and many in my neck of the woods use to consider them as the "welfare'' brand of shocks. To be fair, my experience with those shocks was only in light duty, not their commercial duty line.
      That said, even if they are a good shock, I have no idea of the type of valving (hydraulic dampening) they use. No one company is the same. The fact of the matter is, at least 95% of Safari owners use not only the Koni shocks, but a very particular Koni shock, that has had a TON of real life research behind it, and a TON of real life miles put on it by the MAJORITY of members of this group. That should tell you something.
      Another thought to consider, you have a, kind of, unique coach, that the shop is obviously not familiar with, so there is NOTHING WRONG with YOU buying your own shocks, over the internet and having them install the shocks (you can use the links I provided to buy them). If they don't want satisfy their "customer" and let you do that, than I would suggest to find another shop that would be willing to change your shocks. Heck, even a mobile mechanic could change them for you. It basically boils down to, it's your coach, and if you care about your coach and your ride quality that is potentially at stake, so you might want to consider being proactive.
      Speaking of proactive, I also strongly suggest that you go to the files section, find the file posted by David Bleddy (thank you David), labeled " Magnum Chassis Air Bag Ride Height.pdf " , print it out and bring it to the shop, to have them properly check for ride height. From what you stated earlier, I think it is crucial that you have this done, plus this should be checked periodically anyway.

      Please don't take this blunt post the wrong way, I don't mean to sound rude or disrespectful, but I am trying to be blunt to get the point across and make you understand, ultimately, the decision is yours. For our RV application, I cannot and will not recommend anything but Koni brand, with the particular part numbers mentioned previously.

      Also, I fully agree with what Brett stated, regarding the truck suspensions vs coach suspensions. Brett is extremely knowledgeable with these coaches and the suspensions and diesel engines, and has been at it, helping RV owners, here and at FMCA, a very very long time.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 10:49 AM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Talked to Freightliner this morning. They do not carry Koni or Bilstein shocks. They recommend Gabriel as this is the brand they put on their trucks. Any suggestions or opinions on this? The have shocks comparable to the koni shocks John recommended.


      Sincerely,

      Robert and CJ




      2000 Safari Zanzibar






      Virus-free. www.avg.com
      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40220 From: TD Date: 12/10/2018
      Subject: Re: koni 88-1458SP1 Koni Shocks REAR
      Robert,

      As stated before the 88-1458SP1 is for the rear (these are the shocks on the rear of my coach), it does not matter what the sites have it listed as, as this shock is considered a "universal" shock, and these shocks were "tailored" to our particular coaches via a lot of real life testing and research, especially by one particular individual who has since past on (big loss to our Safari group/RV industry). In any case the 88-1458SP1 is essentially the same shock as the 88-1458SP2 (the shock originally specd for the rear of the Safari coaches), but it has less dampening on compression, which results in a smoother ride, without sacrificing stability and control. The decision is yours, either shock will work, it's just a matter of how much you want your teeth rattled. 

      Again, just so there is no more confusion, the 88-1641SP3 is for the front.
      And as I stated before, you need to order by part number, not by year, model, make, of your coach. This also means ignoring what application the sites say the shocks are for.
      Of course, if you still have doubt in what has been working for our coaches for years, you have the option to just buy what the sites list, but if you choose this route don't wonder or complain that the results are poor. It is your coach and your money, the decision is yours, all I can do is provide the useful and proven information that this sight has. Happy shock shopping!

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Mon, Dec 10, 2018 at 4:34 PM Robert Cosmar - Astrologer robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Hi John,

      My understanding it is a 4 bag system,

      Robert


      photo
      Robert S Cosmar
      Author, Astrologer, HDR Photographer, (The Astrology of Life)

      3522995632 | knowingwhispersastrologer1@...

      http://knowingwhispersastrology.blogspot.com | https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCE4mHoiW_KK5RwR7hPJH4Ow

      411 Walnut St, #14209, Green Cove Springs, Fl 32043

      On Mon, Dec 10, 2018 at 2:56 PM TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
       

      Robert,

      You need to provide me the information, whether your coach is on a 4
      airbag suspension or an 8 airbag suspension. Without that info, I
      can't help you...

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On 12/10/18, robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends]
      <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
      > Hi John,
      >
      >
      > Are you sure about the Koni shock numbers for front and rear. Shock
      > Warehouse calls 88-1458SP1 a FRONT shock. We have seen this at a couple
      > places online.
      >
      >
      > Robert
      >



      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40221 From: Robert Cosmar - Astrologer Date: 12/10/2018
      Subject: Re: koni 88-1458SP1 Koni Shocks REAR
      Hi john,

      Sorry for the miscommunication. The websites through us off. We just wanted to be sure.

      Thanks,
      Robert and CJ


      photo
      Robert S Cosmar
      Author, Astrologer, HDR Photographer, (The Astrology of Life)

      3522995632 | knowingwhispersastrologer1@...

      http://knowingwhispersastrology.blogspot.com | https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCE4mHoiW_KK5RwR7hPJH4Ow

      411 Walnut St, #14209, Green Cove Springs, Fl 32043

      On Mon, Dec 10, 2018 at 4:48 PM TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
       

      Robert,

      As stated before the 88-1458SP1 is for the rear (these are the shocks on the rear of my coach), it does not matter what the sites have it listed as, as this shock is considered a "universal" shock, and these shocks were "tailored" to our particular coaches via a lot of real life testing and research, especially by one particular individual who has since past on (big loss to our Safari group/RV industry). In any case the 88-1458SP1 is essentially the same shock as the 88-1458SP2 (the shock originally specd for the rear of the Safari coaches), but it has less dampening on compression, which results in a smoother ride, without sacrificing stability and control. The decision is yours, either shock will work, it's just a matter of how much you want your teeth rattled. 

      Again, just so there is no more confusion, the 88-1641SP3 is for the front.
      And as I stated before, you need to order by part number, not by year, model, make, of your coach. This also means ignoring what application the sites say the shocks are for.
      Of course, if you still have doubt in what has been working for our coaches for years, you have the option to just buy what the sites list, but if you choose this route don't wonder or complain that the results are poor. It is your coach and your money, the decision is yours, all I can do is provide the useful and proven information that this sight has. Happy shock shopping!

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Mon, Dec 10, 2018 at 4:34 PM Robert Cosmar - Astrologer robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Hi John,

      My understanding it is a 4 bag system,

      Robert


      photo
      Robert S Cosmar
      Author, Astrologer, HDR Photographer, (The Astrology of Life)

      3522995632 | knowingwhispersastrologer1@...

      http://knowingwhispersastrology.blogspot.com | https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCE4mHoiW_KK5RwR7hPJH4Ow

      411 Walnut St, #14209, Green Cove Springs, Fl 32043

      On Mon, Dec 10, 2018 at 2:56 PM TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
       

      Robert,

      You need to provide me the information, whether your coach is on a 4
      airbag suspension or an 8 airbag suspension. Without that info, I
      can't help you...

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On 12/10/18, robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends]
      <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
      > Hi John,
      >
      >
      > Are you sure about the Koni shock numbers for front and rear. Shock
      > Warehouse calls 88-1458SP1 a FRONT shock. We have seen this at a couple
      > places online.
      >
      >
      > Robert
      >



      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40225 From: mel96safari Date: 12/11/2018
      Subject: Re: koni 88-1458SP1 Koni Shocks REAR
      Robert
      What is the year/model of your coach?

      Understand that have to know whether your coach has the "4 bag suspension system" or the "8 bag suspension system" before you can order the correct shocks.

      Mel
      '96 Sahara


      ---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <robertcosmar@...> wrote :

      Hi John,

      My understanding it is a 4 bag system,

      Robert








      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40269 From: robertcosmar Date: 12/18/2018
      Subject: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall frus

      I swear folks we got Gremlins in our RV. Two new problems have come up. We are back in Florida. Spent two months landlocked in Louisiana due to electrical and roof issues. Since we left Florida in July we have been in repair shops or Camping World to fix issues the dealer did not reveal to us. I would say we have spent 8-10 thousand dollars besides the warranty we bought to fix stuff the dealer led us to believe was checked. You would not believe the things we have had to fix.


      Had to get that off my chest. Now we have two additional issues. Today we noticed a crunching noise that comes from our rear suspension. We just had all 4 shocks replaced. When we walk through the RV you can hear a crunching noise coming from around the rear suspension. Anyone got an idea what it may be?? Calling a Mobile Tech tomorrow.


      The second issue deals with our Onan 7500 Quiet Generator. It sat idle for 2 months and the last 2 days worked flawlessly. Now it is doing something that we had Camping World check and though they recognized and fixed it. Appear not to be true. The generator will run smooth for awhile and then change speeds. Sounds like a old car going thru gears. It will surge down and then up and after awhile usually stop. We are well aware that the dealer and the owner most likely lied to us and our dream life is beginning to look like a nightmare.


      One more thing, we had a surge protector added to the RV when we bought it to protect power surges at campsites. Anyone had problems with this affecting their generator or inverter?


      Fed Up,

      Robert and CJ.


      P.S. If anyone knows of an attorney specializing in lawsuits for dealers selling junk to unsuspecting people I am interested.


      2000 Safari Zanzibar

      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40273 From: TD Date: 12/20/2018
      Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
      Robert,

      How much fuel do you have in your tank?
      If it is around 1/4 of a tank, then the generator is likely out of fuel. Also, could possibly be a clogged fuel filter. If you have algae in the fuel, your fuel filters will clog often until the fuel gets treated and the algae passes through...

      As for the shocks? It just a guess, but maybe the shocks in the rear were not installed correctly, or the dust shield on one of the shocks is bent enough to rub against the shock? Consider crawling under the coach and have your partner walk around in the back of the coach, to try and replicate the noise. See where it's coming from. If you don't recognize where the noise is coming from, take some pictures. Take a close up and far away, so we could see other items for reference point.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 11:51 PM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      I swear folks we got Gremlins in our RV. Two new problems have come up. We are back in Florida. Spent two months landlocked in Louisiana due to electrical and roof issues. Since we left Florida in July we have been in repair shops or Camping World to fix issues the dealer did not reveal to us. I would say we have spent 8-10 thousand dollars besides the warranty we bought to fix stuff the dealer led us to believe was checked. You would not believe the things we have had to fix.


      Had to get that off my chest. Now we have two additional issues. Today we noticed a crunching noise that comes from our rear suspension. We just had all 4 shocks replaced. When we walk through the RV you can hear a crunching noise coming from around the rear suspension. Anyone got an idea what it may be?? Calling a Mobile Tech tomorrow.


      The second issue deals with our Onan 7500 Quiet Generator. It sat idle for 2 months and the last 2 days worked flawlessly. Now it is doing something that we had Camping World check and though they recognized and fixed it. Appear not to be true. The generator will run smooth for awhile and then change speeds. Sounds like a old car going thru gears. It will surge down and then up and after awhile usually stop. We are well aware that the dealer and the owner most likely lied to us and our dream life is beginning to look like a nightmare.


      One more thing, we had a surge protector added to the RV when we bought it to protect power surges at campsites. Anyone had problems with this affecting their generator or inverter?


      Fed Up,

      Robert and CJ.


      P.S. If anyone knows of an attorney specializing in lawsuits for dealers selling junk to unsuspecting people I am interested.


      2000 Safari Zanzibar



      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40274 From: John Shelton Date: 12/20/2018
      Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
      I get a creaking sound once in awhile in the rear of my coach. WD 40 on the jack springs usually quiets that!

      Tony 
      2001 Cont. Panther
      4006 505hp


      Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

      On Thursday, December 20, 2018, 3:06 AM, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      Robert,

      How much fuel do you have in your tank?
      If it is around 1/4 of a tank, then the generator is likely out of fuel. Also, could possibly be a clogged fuel filter. If you have algae in the fuel, your fuel filters will clog often until the fuel gets treated and the algae passes through...

      As for the shocks? It just a guess, but maybe the shocks in the rear were not installed correctly, or the dust shield on one of the shocks is bent enough to rub against the shock? Consider crawling under the coach and have your partner walk around in the back of the coach, to try and replicate the noise. See where it's coming from. If you don't recognize where the noise is coming from, take some pictures. Take a close up and far away, so we could see other items for reference point.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 11:51 PM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      I swear folks we got Gremlins in our RV. Two new problems have come up. We are back in Florida. Spent two months landlocked in Louisiana due to electrical and roof issues. Since we left Florida in July we have been in repair shops or Camping World to fix issues the dealer did not reveal to us. I would say we have spent 8-10 thousand dollars besides the warranty we bought to fix stuff the dealer led us to believe was checked. You would not believe the things we have had to fix.


      Had to get that off my chest. Now we have two additional issues. Today we noticed a crunching noise that comes from our rear suspension. We just had all 4 shocks replaced. When we walk through the RV you can hear a crunching noise coming from around the rear suspension. Anyone got an idea what it may be?? Calling a Mobile Tech tomorrow.


      The second issue deals with our Onan 7500 Quiet Generator. It sat idle for 2 months and the last 2 days worked flawlessly. Now it is doing something that we had Camping World check and though they recognized and fixed it. Appear not to be true. The generator will run smooth for awhile and then change speeds. Sounds like a old car going thru gears. It will surge down and then up and after awhile usually stop. We are well aware that the dealer and the owner most likely lied to us and our dream life is beginning to look like a nightmare.


      One more thing, we had a surge protector added to the RV when we bought it to protect power surges at campsites. Anyone had problems with this affecting their generator or inverter?


      Fed Up,

      Robert and CJ.


      P.S. If anyone knows of an attorney specializing in lawsuits for dealers selling junk to unsuspecting people I am interested.


      2000 Safari Zanzibar



      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40276 From: Joe Burch Date: 12/20/2018
      Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
      Robert & CJ,
      If it will make you feel better, when I bought my coach (1996 Sahara) I estimated that it would take about $3,000.00 and three weeks and I would be on the road.  Then reality set in.  15 months and $10,000.00 later (parts only-I do my own work) I feel comfortable being on the road.  Following is a list of a few of the things:  New tires, radiator, charge air cooler repair, engine water pump, freon compressor, thermostat, new hoses, new belts, new brakes, new master cylinder, brake lines, wheel bearings (1), wheel seal (1), inverter, new cameras, step motor, new hitch, refrigerator repair, new battery isolator, new battery combiner relay, antenna repair, new window to replace one fogged up, new battery box, new batteries, new muffler, pak brake repair, Park brake repair, new roof air switch, new faucets in kitchen  & bathroom, new LED lights throughout and this is just a partial list.  I went from a $17,000.00 investment to $27,000.00 fast. If I had had to pay for labor too it would have bankrupted this poor boy.  Most of it is my fault.  In looking back when I went from coach to coach while shopping I never wrote anything down but relied on memory.  Not a good idea.

      My suggestion:   Get everything fixed up so you are comfortable and know all is well and hold on to it. If I wanted to head to california right now the only thing to do would be to put diesel in it.   Get to know your coach and how it operates really well.  This will help when an issue arises in determining the problem and likely fix.  If you can do your own work, it really helps.  The dealers and repair shops will not be financially kind to you. 

      With regard to the crunching noise underneath, before you call the mobile tech as John suggested, get your overalls on and crawl underneath the coach with a flashlight, a good one, and look around.  You may be able to repair this yourself. 

      Joe
      1996 Sahara
      3126 cat
      St Augustine, Fl



      From: "TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      To: "safarifriends Maggio dalemaggio@y." <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 4:10 AM
      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall frustration

       
      Robert,

      How much fuel do you have in your tank?
      If it is around 1/4 of a tank, then the generator is likely out of fuel. Also, could possibly be a clogged fuel filter. If you have algae in the fuel, your fuel filters will clog often until the fuel gets treated and the algae passes through...

      As for the shocks? It just a guess, but maybe the shocks in the rear were not installed correctly, or the dust shield on one of the shocks is bent enough to rub against the shock? Consider crawling under the coach and have your partner walk around in the back of the coach, to try and replicate the noise. See where it's coming from. If you don't recognize where the noise is coming from, take some pictures. Take a close up and far away, so we could see other items for reference point.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 11:51 PM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      I swear folks we got Gremlins in our RV. Two new problems have come up. We are back in Florida. Spent two months landlocked in Louisiana due to electrical and roof issues. Since we left Florida in July we have been in repair shops or Camping World to fix issues the dealer did not reveal to us. I would say we have spent 8-10 thousand dollars besides the warranty we bought to fix stuff the dealer led us to believe was checked. You would not believe the things we have had to fix.

      Had to get that off my chest. Now we have two additional issues. Today we noticed a crunching noise that comes from our rear suspension. We just had all 4 shocks replaced. When we walk through the RV you can hear a crunching noise coming from around the rear suspension. Anyone got an idea what it may be?? Calling a Mobile Tech tomorrow.

      The second issue deals with our Onan 7500 Quiet Generator. It sat idle for 2 months and the last 2 days worked flawlessly. Now it is doing something that we had Camping World check and though they recognized and fixed it. Appear not to be true. The generator will run smooth for awhile and then change speeds. Sounds like a old car going thru gears. It will surge down and then up and after awhile usually stop. We are well aware that the dealer and the owner most likely lied to us and our dream life is beginning to look like a nightmare.

      One more thing, we had a surge protector added to the RV when we bought it to protect power surges at campsites. Anyone had problems with this affecting their generator or inverter?

      Fed Up,
      Robert and CJ.

      P.S. If anyone knows of an attorney specializing in lawsuits for dealers selling junk to unsuspecting people I am interested.

      2000 Safari Zanzibar




      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40284 From: TD Date: 12/20/2018
      Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
      Joe,

      You had your glass replaced?
      Just an FYI for the future. There is a good glass place in your region that specializes in cleaning up and resealing the foggy glass and the glass where the seals start creeping and smearing across the glass. At this point I don't recall the name, but I'm sure if you search the topic the name will come up. When I have time, I will try to look also, if you are interested.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison



      On Thu, Dec 20, 2018 at 7:54 AM Joe Burch burch1945@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      Robert & CJ,
      If it will make you feel better, when I bought my coach (1996 Sahara) I estimated that it would take about $3,000.00 and three weeks and I would be on the road.  Then reality set in.  15 months and $10,000.00 later (parts only-I do my own work) I feel comfortable being on the road.  Following is a list of a few of the things:  New tires, radiator, charge air cooler repair, engine water pump, freon compressor, thermostat, new hoses, new belts, new brakes, new master cylinder, brake lines, wheel bearings (1), wheel seal (1), inverter, new cameras, step motor, new hitch, refrigerator repair, new battery isolator, new battery combiner relay, antenna repair, new window to replace one fogged up, new battery box, new batteries, new muffler, pak brake repair, Park brake repair, new roof air switch, new faucets in kitchen  & bathroom, new LED lights throughout and this is just a partial list.  I went from a $17,000.00 investment to $27,000.00 fast. If I had had to pay for labor too it would have bankrupted this poor boy.  Most of it is my fault.  In looking back when I went from coach to coach while shopping I never wrote anything down but relied on memory.  Not a good idea.

      My suggestion:   Get everything fixed up so you are comfortable and know all is well and hold on to it. If I wanted to head to california right now the only thing to do would be to put diesel in it.   Get to know your coach and how it operates really well.  This will help when an issue arises in determining the problem and likely fix.  If you can do your own work, it really helps.  The dealers and repair shops will not be financially kind to you. 

      With regard to the crunching noise underneath, before you call the mobile tech as John suggested, get your overalls on and crawl underneath the coach with a flashlight, a good one, and look around.  You may be able to repair this yourself. 

      Joe
      1996 Sahara
      3126 cat
      St Augustine, Fl



      From: "TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      To: "safarifriends Maggio dalemaggio@y." <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 4:10 AM
      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall frustration

       
      Robert,

      How much fuel do you have in your tank?
      If it is around 1/4 of a tank, then the generator is likely out of fuel. Also, could possibly be a clogged fuel filter. If you have algae in the fuel, your fuel filters will clog often until the fuel gets treated and the algae passes through...

      As for the shocks? It just a guess, but maybe the shocks in the rear were not installed correctly, or the dust shield on one of the shocks is bent enough to rub against the shock? Consider crawling under the coach and have your partner walk around in the back of the coach, to try and replicate the noise. See where it's coming from. If you don't recognize where the noise is coming from, take some pictures. Take a close up and far away, so we could see other items for reference point.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 11:51 PM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      I swear folks we got Gremlins in our RV. Two new problems have come up. We are back in Florida. Spent two months landlocked in Louisiana due to electrical and roof issues. Since we left Florida in July we have been in repair shops or Camping World to fix issues the dealer did not reveal to us. I would say we have spent 8-10 thousand dollars besides the warranty we bought to fix stuff the dealer led us to believe was checked. You would not believe the things we have had to fix.

      Had to get that off my chest. Now we have two additional issues. Today we noticed a crunching noise that comes from our rear suspension. We just had all 4 shocks replaced. When we walk through the RV you can hear a crunching noise coming from around the rear suspension. Anyone got an idea what it may be?? Calling a Mobile Tech tomorrow.

      The second issue deals with our Onan 7500 Quiet Generator. It sat idle for 2 months and the last 2 days worked flawlessly. Now it is doing something that we had Camping World check and though they recognized and fixed it. Appear not to be true. The generator will run smooth for awhile and then change speeds. Sounds like a old car going thru gears. It will surge down and then up and after awhile usually stop. We are well aware that the dealer and the owner most likely lied to us and our dream life is beginning to look like a nightmare.

      One more thing, we had a surge protector added to the RV when we bought it to protect power surges at campsites. Anyone had problems with this affecting their generator or inverter?

      Fed Up,
      Robert and CJ.

      P.S. If anyone knows of an attorney specializing in lawsuits for dealers selling junk to unsuspecting people I am interested.

      2000 Safari Zanzibar






      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40292 From: robertcosmar Date: 12/20/2018
      Subject: thanks for suggestions and happy holidays

      Hi Everyone,


      Thanks to those of you who responded to my rant on our 2000 Safari Zanzibar.


      We found the issue with the crunch near the rear axle. A lazy and unethical Love's mechanic decided to strip the threads on the bolt holding my rear shock on. I suspected it, because I watched while he spent considerable time using an air wrench on it. Took longer than other shocks he installed. What really angered me is that he said nothing. The shock was never secured by the nut on it. I called Love's and gave them a piece of my mind. I also told them who the mechanic was and my thoughts about him.


      Generator issue is still a problem. Finding anyone to work and specialize on them a hastle. I would like to have a dedicated generator mechanic to look at it as I am less trusting of the one's at Camping World. Have plenty of fuel in the tank, so it is not low fuel. Could be fuel filter...we will see.


      Sincerely,

      Robert and CJ

      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40294 From: John Wolfe Date: 12/20/2018
      Subject: Re: thanks for suggestions and happy holidays
      Robert 
      I had mine serviced at Cummins after a rodent ate the wires to the governor.   I couldn't do it because they needed to dismount the generator. 

      Good luck 

      John Wolfe 
      2002 Safari Zanzibar 

      On Thu, Dec 20, 2018, 6:46 PM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com wrote:
       

      Hi Everyone,


      Thanks to those of you who responded to my rant on our 2000 Safari Zanzibar.


      We found the issue with the crunch near the rear axle. A lazy and unethical Love's mechanic decided to strip the threads on the bolt holding my rear shock on. I suspected it, because I watched while he spent considerable time using an air wrench on it. Took longer than other shocks he installed. What really angered me is that he said nothing. The shock was never secured by the nut on it. I called Love's and gave them a piece of my mind. I also told them who the mechanic was and my thoughts about him.


      Generator issue is still a problem. Finding anyone to work and specialize on them a hastle. I would like to have a dedicated generator mechanic to look at it as I am less trusting of the one's at Camping World. Have plenty of fuel in the tank, so it is not low fuel. Could be fuel filter...we will see.


      Sincerely,

      Robert and CJ

      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40314 From: Robert Lewis Date: 12/22/2018
      Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall
      I second this, exactly the same experience. I too am at about 17 months of remedial work. Today I just found two wires deliberately cut off and taped ...  while looking for a different problem. Low pressure air warning... Another contribution by some RV repair shop.

      The up side is you learn a lot and need never again experience the cannibalism of RV dealers thru not knowing. This forum has a lot of very knowledgeable, experienced and friendly people that are ready to step up and take time to help. 

      So just a word of encouragement... Don't let the present issues sour you on the coach. It is an amazing machine.  The problems can be fixed, just persist. Mainly make sure that the work is done right and the repair shops don't make further problems, so that you don't keep paying to fix the same problem over and over again, if you have to have someone else do the work.

      Robert and Bev Lewis
      2000 Continental
      3126B Cat, 330hp
      MD3060 Allison

      On December 20, 2018 4:54:42 AM "Joe Burch burch1945@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      Robert & CJ,
      If it will make you feel better, when I bought my coach (1996 Sahara) I estimated that it would take about $3,000.00 and three weeks and I would be on the road.  Then reality set in.  15 months and $10,000.00 later (parts only-I do my own work) I feel comfortable being on the road.  Following is a list of a few of the things:  New tires, radiator, charge air cooler repair, engine water pump, freon compressor, thermostat, new hoses, new belts, new brakes, new master cylinder, brake lines, wheel bearings (1), wheel seal (1), inverter, new cameras, step motor, new hitch, refrigerator repair, new battery isolator, new battery combiner relay, antenna repair, new window to replace one fogged up, new battery box, new batteries, new muffler, pak brake repair, Park brake repair, new roof air switch, new faucets in kitchen  & bathroom, new LED lights throughout and this is just a partial list.  I went from a $17,000.00 investment to $27,000.00 fast. If I had had to pay for labor too it would have bankrupted this poor boy.  Most of it is my fault.  In looking back when I went from coach to coach while shopping I never wrote anything down but relied on memory.  Not a good idea.

      My suggestion:   Get everything fixed up so you are comfortable and know all is well and hold on to it. If I wanted to head to california right now the only thing to do would be to put diesel in it.   Get to know your coach and how it operates really well.  This will help when an issue arises in determining the problem and likely fix.  If you can do your own work, it really helps.  The dealers and repair shops will not be financially kind to you. 

      With regard to the crunching noise underneath, before you call the mobile tech as John suggested, get your overalls on and crawl underneath the coach with a flashlight, a good one, and look around.  You may be able to repair this yourself. 

      Joe
      1996 Sahara
      3126 cat
      St Augustine, Fl



      From: "TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      To: "safarifriends Maggio dalemaggio@y." <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 4:10 AM
      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall frustration

       
      Robert,

      How much fuel do you have in your tank?
      If it is around 1/4 of a tank, then the generator is likely out of fuel. Also, could possibly be a clogged fuel filter. If you have algae in the fuel, your fuel filters will clog often until the fuel gets treated and the algae passes through...

      As for the shocks? It just a guess, but maybe the shocks in the rear were not installed correctly, or the dust shield on one of the shocks is bent enough to rub against the shock? Consider crawling under the coach and have your partner walk around in the back of the coach, to try and replicate the noise. See where it's coming from. If you don't recognize where the noise is coming from, take some pictures. Take a close up and far away, so we could see other items for reference point.

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

      On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 11:51 PM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


      I swear folks we got Gremlins in our RV. Two new problems have come up. We are back in Florida. Spent two months landlocked in Louisiana due to electrical and roof issues. Since we left Florida in July we have been in repair shops or Camping World to fix issues the dealer did not reveal to us. I would say we have spent 8-10 thousand dollars besides the warranty we bought to fix stuff the dealer led us to believe was checked. You would not believe the things we have had to fix.

      Had to get that off my chest. Now we have two additional issues. Today we noticed a crunching noise that comes from our rear suspension. We just had all 4 shocks replaced. When we walk through the RV you can hear a crunching noise coming from around the rear suspension. Anyone got an idea what it may be?? Calling a Mobile Tech tomorrow.

      The second issue deals with our Onan 7500 Quiet Generator. It sat idle for 2 months and the last 2 days worked flawlessly. Now it is doing something that we had Camping World check and though they recognized and fixed it. Appear not to be true. The generator will run smooth for awhile and then change speeds. Sounds like a old car going thru gears. It will surge down and then up and after awhile usually stop. We are well aware that the dealer and the owner most likely lied to us and our dream life is beginning to look like a nightmare.

      One more thing, we had a surge protector added to the RV when we bought it to protect power surges at campsites. Anyone had problems with this affecting their generator or inverter?

      Fed Up,
      Robert and CJ.

      P.S. If anyone knows of an attorney specializing in lawsuits for dealers selling junk to unsuspecting people I am interested.

      2000 Safari Zanzibar





      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40319 From: John Clevenger Date: 12/22/2018
      Subject: Re: crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall

      I had my kingpins replaced by a shop that had done some work on my rig before, total about $3,000 with rebuilding the front end! Now because of bad workmanship . How I have done about $6,000  in cleanup of the mess he caused! Fyi his shop is closed down now too, messy divorce!

       

      I will do most of the work on the rig myself from now on, can’t be any worst! I have low trust of shop workers now! Buyer beware too! JohnC    

       

      96 Safari Sahara 3540 250 Cat

      2015 TJ/Fusion

      (O) I I I I I I I (O)

       

      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
      Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2018 2:28 AM
      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall frustration

       

       

      I second this, exactly the same experience. I too am at about 17 months of remedial work. Today I just found two wires deliberately cut off and taped ...  while looking for a different problem. Low pressure air warning... Another contribution by some RV repair shop.

       

      The up side is you learn a lot and need never again experience the cannibalism of RV dealers thru not knowing. This forum has a lot of very knowledgeable, experienced and friendly people that are ready to step up and take time to help. 

       

      So just a word of encouragement... Don't let the present issues sour you on the coach. It is an amazing machine.  The problems can be fixed, just persist. Mainly make sure that the work is done right and the repair shops don't make further problems, so that you don't keep paying to fix the same problem over and over again, if you have to have someone else do the work.

       

      Robert and Bev Lewis

      2000 Continental

      3126B Cat, 330hp

      MD3060 Allison

       

      On December 20, 2018 4:54:42 AM "Joe Burch burch1945@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      Robert & CJ,

      If it will make you feel better, when I bought my coach (1996 Sahara) I estimated that it would take about $3,000.00 and three weeks and I would be on the road.  Then reality set in.  15 months and $10,000.00 later (parts only-I do my own work) I feel comfortable being on the road.  Following is a list of a few of the things:  New tires, radiator, charge air cooler repair, engine water pump, freon compressor, thermostat, new hoses, new belts, new brakes, new master cylinder, brake lines, wheel bearings (1), wheel seal (1), inverter, new cameras, step motor, new hitch, refrigerator repair, new battery isolator, new battery combiner relay, antenna repair, new window to replace one fogged up, new battery box, new batteries, new muffler, pak brake repair, Park brake repair, new roof air switch, new faucets in kitchen  & bathroom, new LED lights throughout and this is just a partial list.  I went from a $17,000.00 investment to $27,000.00 fast. If I had had to pay for labor too it would have bankrupted this poor boy.  Most of it is my fault.  In looking back when I went from coach to coach while shopping I never wrote anything down but relied on memory.  Not a good idea.

       

      My suggestion:   Get everything fixed up so you are comfortable and know all is well and hold on to it. If I wanted to head to california right now the only thing to do would be to put diesel in it.   Get to know your coach and how it operates really well.  This will help when an issue arises in determining the problem and likely fix.  If you can do your own work, it really helps.  The dealers and repair shops will not be financially kind to you. 

       

      With regard to the crunching noise underneath, before you call the mobile tech as John suggested, get your overalls on and crawl underneath the coach with a flashlight, a good one, and look around.  You may be able to repair this yourself. 

       

      Joe

      1996 Sahara

      3126 cat

      St Augustine, Fl

       


      From: "TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      To: "safarifriends Maggio dalemaggio@y." <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
      Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2018 4:10 AM
      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] crunching sound in rear suspension, generator issue and overall frustration

       

       

      Robert,

       

      How much fuel do you have in your tank?

      If it is around 1/4 of a tank, then the generator is likely out of fuel. Also, could possibly be a clogged fuel filter. If you have algae in the fuel, your fuel filters will clog often until the fuel gets treated and the algae passes through...

       

      As for the shocks? It just a guess, but maybe the shocks in the rear were not installed correctly, or the dust shield on one of the shocks is bent enough to rub against the shock? Consider crawling under the coach and have your partner walk around in the back of the coach, to try and replicate the noise. See where it's coming from. If you don't recognize where the noise is coming from, take some pictures. Take a close up and far away, so we could see other items for reference point.

       

      John
      95 Safari Serengeti 38'
      300 Cummins 8.3CTA
      6spd Allison

       

      On Tue, Dec 18, 2018 at 11:51 PM robertcosmar@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

       

      I swear folks we got Gremlins in our RV. Two new problems have come up. We are back in Florida. Spent two months landlocked in Louisiana due to electrical and roof issues. Since we left Florida in July we have been in repair shops or Camping World to fix issues the dealer did not reveal to us. I would say we have spent 8-10 thousand dollars besides the warranty we bought to fix stuff the dealer led us to believe was checked. You would not believe the things we have had to fix.

       

      Had to get that off my chest. Now we have two additional issues. Today we noticed a crunching noise that comes from our rear suspension. We just had all 4 shocks replaced. When we walk through the RV you can hear a crunching noise coming from around the rear suspension. Anyone got an idea what it may be?? Calling a Mobile Tech tomorrow.

       

      The second issue deals with our Onan 7500 Quiet Generator. It sat idle for 2 months and the last 2 days worked flawlessly. Now it is doing something that we had Camping World check and though they recognized and fixed it. Appear not to be true. The generator will run smooth for awhile and then change speeds. Sounds like a old car going thru gears. It will surge down and then up and after awhile usually stop. We are well aware that the dealer and the owner most likely lied to us and our dream life is beginning to look like a nightmare.

       

      One more thing, we had a surge protector added to the RV when we bought it to protect power surges at campsites. Anyone had problems with this affecting their generator or inverter?

       

      Fed Up,

      Robert and CJ.

       

      P.S. If anyone knows of an attorney specializing in lawsuits for dealers selling junk to unsuspecting people I am interested.

       

      2000 Safari Zanzibar

       

       

       

      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40344 From: fountking Date: 12/25/2018
      Subject: Re: water leak in stepwell
      My fix for the 2"hole
      4"electric box cover plate with gasket
      3/4" electrical compression fitting
      Caulked under and around plate with a flashing caulk we use on brickwork.
      Sprayed with rustoleum rubber seal paint easy to keep an eye on to see if it needs to be reaplied

      John and Bill I just saw your email replys,I don't use yahoo mail. I used to get notification on the envolope for mail but not now for some reason.
        Will have to keep an eye on basement for water on upcoming trip to Fl.

      I have ordered 881641sp3 shocks will have them for upcoming trip.
      Just took the Koni 1490 p2  off will let you know if I notice difference.

      Bob 96 Serengeti





      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40633 From: Eddie Windom Date: 1/18/2019
      Subject: New To The Site
      Attachments :
      Hello everyone, I would to introduce myself as I'm a 'newb' here.  My name is Eddie Windom and my is Pegge (Yeah, Peggy with an 'e' as she always tells people.  We live in Lagrange, Georgia and have been enjoying camping since 2011. Up until a couple of months ago, I had a Toy Hauler travel trailer (Named: The "Taj-Ma-Hauler") that we used for hauling either my Harley or my wife's golf cart pulling it with my 2001 F-250 7.3 diesel (that I still have).  We decided to sell it since we decided to go another route.

      During the week after this past Christmas, we came across a 2000 Safari Continental nearby that went up for sale. We went to check it out and loved the build quality and layout on it and I always loved Safari coaches as those murals were always so awesome. The couple that had it acquired it had it for nearly four years and loved it but they had other priorities crop up and decided to sell it. The Caterpillar - Allison drivetrain has barely over 27 thousand miles on it and he had recently had service done on it for fluid, belt and filter changes on that as well as the Cummins-Onan diesel generator with approx 550 hrs on it.  Both systems started with ease and sound very good.  As for something a bit aged and this one had sat outside for a few years, there are a couple of 'rough spots' on the exterior and the interior could use a little 'cleaning' up so a little touch up here and there and I would like to make sure to get a fresh seal on the roof to keep any leaks from occurring.  Fortunately, I had a covered place rented when I had my toy hauler and kept it and now can park the 'new to us' Safari there and there is a 15amp outlet available for us to plug into to run the fridge and to keep the batteries charged however, we haven't been able to do that just yet (see below).  The owner also threw in a Roadmaster tow bar for pulling a TOAD (he pulled an Explorer Sport Trac with his). 

      The seller also mentioned that there may be a problem with the inverter as I cannot run anything 12 volt (or beyond) unless the generator is running or being connected to 50amp shore power.  Going from a towable to a Class A has been a huge change and I'm still trying to learn everything about the coach that I can.  I am wondering if there may be a problem with the house batteries/inverter setup on there and I've been wanting to get it seen about but it seems that I cannot find an experienced RV person that's free at this time to take a look at it and assist me in getting this problem straightened out. I cannot even turn any  12v lights or run any AC outlets/devices connected to the 15amp connection via the dogbone either so I find myself having the run the generator when I am on site for doing some of the cleanup we're performing. Things that I have done is replace all the storage compartments below with new, brighter LED lighting and I also need to replace some of the support shocks on some of the compartment doors.  I do have one door that will not lock/unlock with the automatic locking system that I need to check out as well. 

      I do see so many helpful posts and threads here and it appears everyone is very friendly and some very knowledgeable with these units.  I am usually a hands-on type of person but I'm not as versatile body wise as I used to be (I'm sure many can relate to that) but I can usually do a lot of things myself. I'm looking forward to getting our Safari ready to break in soon and eventually take a really long tour of our beautiful country for several months this coming year but I just need to iron out some of the stuff I've mentioned so that we can get to that point.  Looking forward to many conversations and hopefully I won't have to write another 'book' like this one and can provide something of value here as well. 

      Eddie & Pegge Windom
      2000 Safari Continental


      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40938 From: tleepedigo Date: 3/10/2019
      Subject: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

      Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus.  It had red Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once removed.  At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with Bilsteins.  It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road.  Also, there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle.  If it were a car, I'd say replace them!  But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.  I checked my ride height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be (25" as I remember).  I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by Craig... so far, anyway.


      Should I replace my shocks?  The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see any significant difference.


      Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:


      Front: 88-1641SP3 

      Rear: 88-1458SP2


      Thanks,

      Lee

      '93 Continental 40'

      300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis

      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40940 From: Craig Burrell Date: 3/10/2019
      Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
      i can tell you that when i put the loni in it was bad. but i took them out and the adjustment was at 3/4 and i put the up to full and it is great. i love it so much better. I have not changed the back ones yet cause it is so hard to reach but this summer i will change the adjustment on them too. I have a little up and down. I also replace all the rubber on the front and back torsion bars. they were all bad.

      Craig
      93 cont. 8.3 6 speed. 

      On Sunday, March 10, 2019, 2:17:23 PM CDT, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


       

      Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus.  It had red Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once removed.  At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with Bilsteins.  It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road.  Also, there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle.  If it were a car, I'd say replace them!  But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.  I checked my ride height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be (25" as I remember).  I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by Craig... so far, anyway.


      Should I replace my shocks?  The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see any significant difference.


      Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:


      Front: 88-1641SP3 

      Rear: 88-1458SP2


      Thanks,

      Lee

      '93 Continental 40'

      300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis

      Group: Safarifriends Message: 40942 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/10/2019
      Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
      Attachments :

        Are these the part numbers you used, Craig?

         

        Thanks!

         

        From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
        Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 6:16 PM
        To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
        Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

         

         

        i can tell you that when i put the loni in it was bad. but i took them out and the adjustment was at 3/4 and i put the up to full and it is great. i love it so much better. I have not changed the back ones yet cause it is so hard to reach but this summer i will change the adjustment on them too. I have a little up and down. I also replace all the rubber on the front and back torsion bars. they were all bad.

         

        Craig

        93 cont. 8.3 6 speed. 

         

        On Sunday, March 10, 2019, 2:17:23 PM CDT, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

         

         

         

        Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus.  It had red Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once removed.  At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with Bilsteins.  It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road.  Also, there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle.  If it were a car, I'd say replace them!  But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.  I checked my ride height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be (25" as I remember).  I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by Craig... so far, anyway.

         

        Should I replace my shocks?  The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see any significant difference.

         

        Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:

         

        Front: 88-1641SP3 

        Rear: 88-1458SP2

         

        Thanks,

        Lee

        '93 Continental 40'

        300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis

        Group: Safarifriends Message: 40946 From: TD Date: 3/10/2019
        Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
        Lee,

        Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
        of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
        especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
        and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
        smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
        torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
        extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
        dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
        perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
        that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
        This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
        setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
        harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
        the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
        the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
        dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
        max, both front and back.

        The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
        get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
        shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
        considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
        dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
        both, the the difference is very noticeable.

        So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
        they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

        NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
        given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
        for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

        Shock numbers:

        Front: 88-1641SP3

        Rear: 88-1458SP1

        Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
        they include free shipping.


        John
        '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
        6spd.


        On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
        <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
        > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
        > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
        > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
        > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
        > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
        > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
        > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
        > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
        > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs. I checked my ride
        > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
        > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
        > Craig... so far, anyway.
        >
        >
        > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
        > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
        > any significant difference.
        >
        >
        > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
        >
        >
        > Front: 88-1641SP3
        >
        > Rear: 88-1458SP2
        >
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Lee
        > '93 Continental 40'
        > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
        >
        Group: Safarifriends Message: 40954 From: Craig Burrell Date: 3/13/2019
        Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

        these are the ones i used. 
        On Monday, March 11, 2019, 12:57:04 AM EDT, TD sdjhtm@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:


         

        Lee,

        Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
        of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
        especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
        and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
        smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
        torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
        extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
        dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
        perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
        that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
        This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
        setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
        harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
        the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
        the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
        dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
        max, both front and back.

        The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
        get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
        shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
        considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
        dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
        both, the the difference is very noticeable.

        So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
        they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

        NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
        given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
        for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

        Shock numbers:

        Front: 88-1641SP3

        Rear: 88-1458SP1

        Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
        they include free shipping.

        John
        '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
        6spd.

        On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
        <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
        > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
        > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
        > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
        > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
        > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
        > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
        > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
        > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
        > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs. I checked my ride
        > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
        > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
        > Craig... so far, anyway.
        >
        >
        > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
        > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
        > any significant difference.
        >
        >
        > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
        >
        >
        > Front: 88-1641SP3
        >
        > Rear: 88-1458SP2
        >
        >
        > Thanks,
        > Lee
        > '93 Continental 40'
        > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
        >

        Group: Safarifriends Message: 40987 From: John Rowin Date: 3/17/2019
        Subject: Re: Koni Shocks Literature.pdf [1 Attachment]
        I just installed six Koni shocks. Ended porpoising and I love the ride and steering. The 8 air bags help. 

        John & Martha Rowin
        2000 Safari Continental Panther 42’


        Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

        On Saturday, March 16, 2019, 6:39 PM, David Leddy davidbleddy@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

         
        [Attachment(s) from David Leddy included below]

        Would you be upset if I posted this?




        Sent from my iPhone
        Group: Safarifriends Message: 41048 From: Robert Lewis Date: 3/20/2019
        Subject: Re: Koni Shocks Literature.pdf

        Hi John and Martha

        can you share the cost of the shocks? That is something I need to do as well. I found it very unnerving having something that large wobbling all over the road when a dip on a corner appears out of no where.

        Robert and Bev Lewis
        2000 Continental
        3126B Cat, 330hp
        MD3060 Allison

        On March 17, 2019 7:04:29 PM "John Rowin johndrowin@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

         

        I just installed six Koni shocks. Ended porpoising and I love the ride and steering. The 8 air bags help. 


        John & Martha Rowin
        2000 Safari Continental Panther 42’


        Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

        On Saturday, March 16, 2019, 6:39 PM, David Leddy davidbleddy@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

         
        [Attachment(s) from David Leddy included below]

        Would you be upset if I posted this?




        Sent from my iPhone


        Group: Safarifriends Message: 41078 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/22/2019
        Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
        Attachments :

          Jim,

           

          Thanks for all the help!  I’m in a campground in GA right now and while driving down, I could really tell that I needed new shocks.  I was not expecting to need new shocks after only three years (20k miles), but I guess that’s the case. I will order some of these (Konis part #’s listed below) as soon as I get back to TN.  I plan on adjusting them to the max setting before installing.  Should be easy as I just replaced them and used anti-seize on the bushings.  I had the cut them off with a Dremel last time!

           

          Thanks,

          Lee

           

          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
          Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:57 AM
          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

           

           

          Lee,

          Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
          of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
          especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
          and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
          smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
          torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
          extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
          dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
          perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
          that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
          This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
          setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
          harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
          the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
          the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
          dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
          max, both front and back.

          The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
          get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
          shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
          considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
          dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
          both, the the difference is very noticeable.

          So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
          they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

          NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
          given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
          for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

          Shock numbers:

          Front: 88-1641SP3

          Rear: 88-1458SP1

          Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
          they include free shipping.

          John
          '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
          6spd.

          On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
          <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

          > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
          > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
          > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
          > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
          > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
          > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
          > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
          > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
          > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs. I checked my ride
          > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
          > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
          > Craig... so far, anyway.
          >
          >
          > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
          > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
          > any significant difference.
          >
          >
          > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
          >
          >
          > Front: 88-1641SP3
          >
          > Rear: 88-1458SP2
          >
          >
          > Thanks,
          > Lee
          > '93 Continental 40'
          > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
          >

          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41084 From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com Date: 3/22/2019
          Subject: New file uploaded to Safarifriends
          Hello,

          This email message is a notification to let you know that
          a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the Safarifriends
          group.

          File : /Koni Shocks Literature.pdf
          Uploaded by : davidbleddy <davidbleddy@...>
          Description : F 88-1641sp3 R 88-1458sp1

          You can access this file at the URL:
          https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Koni%20Shocks%20Literature.pdf

          To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
          https://help.yahoo.com/kb/index?page=content&y=PROD_GRPS&locale=en_US&id=SLN15398

          Regards,

          davidbleddy <davidbleddy@...>
          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41086 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/22/2019
          Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
          Attachments :

            Oops… this was supposed to be “Thanks, John”    --- (John '95 Safari Serengeti)

             

            Sorry about that!

             

            Lee

            ’93 Continental 40’

            300 Cummins -- Oshkosh

             

             

             

            From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
            Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 1:00 PM
            To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

             

             

            Jim,

             

            Thanks for all the help!  I’m in a campground in GA right now and while driving down, I could really tell that I needed new shocks.  I was not expecting to need new shocks after only three years (20k miles), but I guess that’s the case. I will order some of these (Konis part #’s listed below) as soon as I get back to TN.  I plan on adjusting them to the max setting before installing.  Should be easy as I just replaced them and used anti-seize on the bushings.  I had the cut them off with a Dremel last time!

             

            Thanks,

            Lee

             

            From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
            Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:57 AM
            To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
            Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

             

             

            Lee,

            Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
            of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
            especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
            and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
            smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
            torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
            extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
            dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
            perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
            that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
            This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
            setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
            harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
            the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
            the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
            dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
            max, both front and back.

            The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
            get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
            shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
            considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
            dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
            both, the the difference is very noticeable.

            So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
            they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

            NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
            given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
            for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

            Shock numbers:

            Front: 88-1641SP3

            Rear: 88-1458SP1

            Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
            they include free shipping.

            John
            '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
            6spd.

            On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
            <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

            > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
            > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
            > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
            > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
            > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
            > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
            > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
            > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
            > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.. I checked my ride
            > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
            > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
            > Craig... so far, anyway.
            >
            >
            > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
            > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
            > any significant difference.
            >
            >
            > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
            >
            >
            > Front: 88-1641SP3
            >
            > Rear: 88-1458SP2
            >
            >
            > Thanks,
            > Lee
            > '93 Continental 40'
            > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
            >

            Group: Safarifriends Message: 41126 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/26/2019
            Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
            Attachments :

              Ordered these shocks yesterday from Ultra RV Products.  Price was $140 each with free shipping.  They were about $4 higher than LTB, but shipped them from Kentucky, which got them here several days quicker which was worth the price difference as I’m taking the rig back out this weekend.

               

              Front: 88-1641SP3

              Rear: 88-1458SP1

               

              Lee

              ’93 Continental 40’

              300 Cummins – 6spd

              Oshkosh Chassis

               

               

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 12:18 PM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Oops… this was supposed to be “Thanks, John”    --- (John '95 Safari Serengeti)

               

              Sorry about that!

               

              Lee

              ’93 Continental 40’

              300 Cummins -- Oshkosh

               

               

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 1:00 PM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Jim,

               

              Thanks for all the help!  I’m in a campground in GA right now and while driving down, I could really tell that I needed new shocks.  I was not expecting to need new shocks after only three years (20k miles), but I guess that’s the case. I will order some of these (Konis part #’s listed below) as soon as I get back to TN.  I plan on adjusting them to the max setting before installing.  Should be easy as I just replaced them and used anti-seize on the bushings.  I had the cut them off with a Dremel last time!

               

              Thanks,

              Lee

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:57 AM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Lee,

              Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
              of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
              especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
              and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
              smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
              torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
              extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
              dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
              perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
              that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
              This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
              setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
              harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
              the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
              the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
              dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
              max, both front and back.

              The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
              get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
              shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
              considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
              dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
              both, the the difference is very noticeable.

              So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
              they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

              NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
              given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
              for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

              Shock numbers:

              Front: 88-1641SP3

              Rear: 88-1458SP1

              Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
              they include free shipping.

              John
              '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
              6spd.

              On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
              <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

              > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
              > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
              > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
              > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
              > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
              > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
              > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
              > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
              > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.. I checked my ride
              > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
              > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
              > Craig... so far, anyway.
              >
              >
              > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
              > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
              > any significant difference.
              >
              >
              > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
              >
              >
              > Front: 88-1641SP3
              >
              > Rear: 88-1458SP2
              >
              >
              > Thanks,
              > Lee
              > '93 Continental 40'
              > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
              >

              Group: Safarifriends Message: 41131 From: technolog1 Date: 3/26/2019
              Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
              Those back ones are a pain to get to. Good luck.



              Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

              -------- Original message --------
              From: "'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
              Date: 3/26/19 8:44 AM (GMT-06:00)
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

              Ordered these shocks yesterday from Ultra RV Products.  Price was $140 each with free shipping.  They were about $4 higher than LTB, but shipped them from Kentucky, which got them here several days quicker which was worth the price difference as I’m taking the rig back out this weekend.

               

              Front: 88-1641SP3

              Rear: 88-1458SP1

               

              Lee

              ’93 Continental 40’

              300 Cummins – 6spd

              Oshkosh Chassis

               

               

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 12:18 PM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Oops… this was supposed to be “Thanks, John”    --- (John '95 Safari Serengeti)

               

              Sorry about that!

               

              Lee

              ’93 Continental 40’

              300 Cummins -- Oshkosh

               

               

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 1:00 PM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Jim,

               

              Thanks for all the help!  I’m in a campground in GA right now and while driving down, I could really tell that I needed new shocks.  I was not expecting to need new shocks after only three years (20k miles), but I guess that’s the case. I will order some of these (Konis part #’s listed below) as soon as I get back to TN.  I plan on adjusting them to the max setting before installing.  Should be easy as I just replaced them and used anti-seize on the bushings.  I had the cut them off with a Dremel last time!

               

              Thanks,

              Lee

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:57 AM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Lee,

              Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
              of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
              especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
              and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
              smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
              torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
              extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
              dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
              perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
              that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
              This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
              setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
              harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
              the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
              the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
              dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
              max, both front and back.

              The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
              get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
              shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
              considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
              dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
              both, the the difference is very noticeable.

              So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
              they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

              NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
              given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
              for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

              Shock numbers:

              Front: 88-1641SP3

              Rear: 88-1458SP1

              Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
              they include free shipping.

              John
              '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
              6spd.

              On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
              <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

              > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
              > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
              > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
              > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
              > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
              > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
              > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
              > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
              > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.. I checked my ride
              > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
              > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
              > Craig... so far, anyway.
              >
              >
              > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
              > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
              > any significant difference.
              >
              >
              > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
              >
              >
              > Front: 88-1641SP3
              >
              > Rear: 88-1458SP2
              >
              >
              > Thanks,
              > Lee
              > '93 Continental 40'
              > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
              >


              Posted by: "Lee Pedigo" <lped@...>
              Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (10)

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              Group: Safarifriends Message: 41132 From: Gary Smith Date: 3/26/2019
              Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
              Both Ultra and LTB have the shocks drop shipped from the Koni warehouse, so probably would not have made any difference in when they got to you.  Did Ultra charge you sales tax?  LTB did not charge me tax.

              Gary
              '98 Sahara 3006 300CAT

              '98 Sahara

              On Tue, Mar 26, 2019 at 11:42 AM 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
               

              Ordered these shocks yesterday from Ultra RV Products.  Price was $140 each with free shipping.  They were about $4 higher than LTB, but shipped them from Kentucky, which got them here several days quicker which was worth the price difference as I’m taking the rig back out this weekend.

               

              Front: 88-1641SP3

              Rear: 88-1458SP1

               

              Lee

              ’93 Continental 40’

              300 Cummins – 6spd

              Oshkosh Chassis

               

               

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 12:18 PM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Oops… this was supposed to be “Thanks, John”    --- (John '95 Safari Serengeti)

               

              Sorry about that!

               

              Lee

              ’93 Continental 40’

              300 Cummins -- Oshkosh

               

               

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 1:00 PM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Jim,

               

              Thanks for all the help!  I’m in a campground in GA right now and while driving down, I could really tell that I needed new shocks.  I was not expecting to need new shocks after only three years (20k miles), but I guess that’s the case. I will order some of these (Konis part #’s listed below) as soon as I get back to TN.  I plan on adjusting them to the max setting before installing.  Should be easy as I just replaced them and used anti-seize on the bushings.  I had the cut them off with a Dremel last time!

               

              Thanks,

              Lee

               

              From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
              Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:57 AM
              To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
              Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

               

               

              Lee,

              Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
              of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
              especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
              and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
              smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
              torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
              extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
              dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
              perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
              that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
              This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
              setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
              harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
              the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
              the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
              dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
              max, both front and back.

              The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
              get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
              shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
              considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
              dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
              both, the the difference is very noticeable.

              So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
              they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

              NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
              given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
              for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

              Shock numbers:

              Front: 88-1641SP3

              Rear: 88-1458SP1

              Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
              they include free shipping.

              John
              '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
              6spd.

              On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
              <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
              > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
              > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
              > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
              > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
              > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
              > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
              > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
              > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
              > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.. I checked my ride
              > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
              > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
              > Craig... so far, anyway.
              >
              >
              > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
              > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
              > any significant difference.
              >
              >
              > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
              >
              >
              > Front: 88-1641SP3
              >
              > Rear: 88-1458SP2
              >
              >
              > Thanks,
              > Lee
              > '93 Continental 40'
              > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
              >



              --
              Gary Smith
              Group: Safarifriends Message: 41135 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/27/2019
              Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental
              Attachments :

                Gary,

                 

                LTB said these shocks would ship from California, so I figured they knew it for a fact.  I had asked if they were drop-shipped from Koni and the girl said no.  ??? 

                 

                Anyway,  Ultra did not charge me sales tax.  Both were very pleasant to deal with.   Had LTB be closer, I would have used them.

                 

                Thanks,

                Lee

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 4:47 PM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Both Ultra and LTB have the shocks drop shipped from the Koni warehouse, so probably would not have made any difference in when they got to you.  Did Ultra charge you sales tax?  LTB did not charge me tax.

                 

                Gary

                '98 Sahara 3006 300CAT

                 

                '98 Sahara

                 

                On Tue, Mar 26, 2019 at 11:42 AM 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                 

                Ordered these shocks yesterday from Ultra RV Products.  Price was $140 each with free shipping.  They were about $4 higher than LTB, but shipped them from Kentucky, which got them here several days quicker which was worth the price difference as I’m taking the rig back out this weekend.

                 

                Front: 88-1641SP3

                Rear: 88-1458SP1

                 

                Lee

                ’93 Continental 40’

                300 Cummins – 6spd

                Oshkosh Chassis

                 

                 

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups..com]
                Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 12:18 PM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Oops… this was supposed to be “Thanks, John”    --- (John '95 Safari Serengeti)

                 

                Sorry about that!

                 

                Lee

                ’93 Continental 40’

                300 Cummins -- Oshkosh

                 

                 

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 1:00 PM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Jim,

                 

                Thanks for all the help!  I’m in a campground in GA right now and while driving down, I could really tell that I needed new shocks.  I was not expecting to need new shocks after only three years (20k miles), but I guess that’s the case. I will order some of these (Konis part #’s listed below) as soon as I get back to TN.  I plan on adjusting them to the max setting before installing.  Should be easy as I just replaced them and used anti-seize on the bushings..  I had the cut them off with a Dremel last time!

                 

                Thanks,

                Lee

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:57 AM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Lee,

                Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
                of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
                especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
                and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
                smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
                torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
                extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
                dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
                perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
                that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
                This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
                setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
                harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
                the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
                the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
                dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
                max, both front and back.

                The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
                get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
                shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
                considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
                dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
                both, the the difference is very noticeable..

                So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
                they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

                NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
                given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
                for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

                Shock numbers:

                Front: 88-1641SP3

                Rear: 88-1458SP1

                Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
                they include free shipping.

                John
                '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
                6spd.

                On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
                <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
                > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
                > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
                > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
                > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
                > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
                > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
                > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
                > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.. I checked my ride
                > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
                > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
                > Craig... so far, anyway.
                >
                >
                > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
                > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
                > any significant difference.
                >
                >
                > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
                >
                >
                > Front: 88-1641SP3
                >
                > Rear: 88-1458SP2
                >
                >
                > Thanks,
                > Lee
                > '93 Continental 40'
                > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
                >



                --

                Gary Smith
                Image removed by sender.Image removed by sender.

                Group: Safarifriends Message: 41136 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/27/2019
                Subject: Re: Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                Yeah, man… I’ve done ‘em brfore.  Sucks having to do it again after only three years, but I guess these buses are hard on shocks.

                 

                Where do you live, Craig?

                 

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 2:54 PM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Those back ones are a pain to get to. Good luck.

                 

                 

                 

                Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

                 

                -------- Original message --------

                From: "'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>

                Date: 3/26/19 8:44 AM (GMT-06:00)

                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com

                Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Ordered these shocks yesterday from Ultra RV Products.  Price was $140 each with free shipping.  They were about $4 higher than LTB, but shipped them from Kentucky, which got them here several days quicker which was worth the price difference as I’m taking the rig back out this weekend.

                 

                Front: 88-1641SP3

                Rear: 88-1458SP1

                 

                Lee

                ’93 Continental 40’

                300 Cummins – 6spd

                Oshkosh Chassis

                 

                 

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                Sent: Friday, March 22, 2019 12:18 PM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Oops… this was supposed to be “Thanks, John”    --- (John '95 Safari Serengeti)

                 

                Sorry about that!

                 

                Lee

                ’93 Continental 40’

                300 Cummins -- Oshkosh

                 

                 

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                Sent: Thursday, March 21, 2019 1:00 PM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Jim,

                 

                Thanks for all the help!  I’m in a campground in GA right now and while driving down, I could really tell that I needed new shocks.  I was not expecting to need new shocks after only three years (20k miles), but I guess that’s the case. I will order some of these (Konis part #’s listed below) as soon as I get back to TN.  I plan on adjusting them to the max setting before installing.  Should be easy as I just replaced them and used anti-seize on the bushings.  I had the cut them off with a Dremel last time!

                 

                Thanks,

                Lee

                 

                From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                Sent: Monday, March 11, 2019 12:57 AM
                To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Koni Shocks for '93 Continental

                 

                 

                Lee,

                Bilstein shocks are mono tube shocks, which by their nature have a lot
                of dampening on compression. This translates to a very harsh ride,
                especially on the high frequency jarring bumps, like expansion joints
                and pot holes. BTW, I have used both brands, and the Konis are much
                smoother with better control. The best type of shocks for VelvetRide
                torsional suspensions are the type that have a lot of dampening on
                extension (provides good stability and sway control), and minimal
                dampening on compression. The Koni Reds fit this description and
                perform very well. If you ride on rough roads, I strongly recommend
                that you adjust the Konis to maximum dampening, right from the get go.
                This will save you the hassle that Craig had to go through. BTW,
                setting the shocks at maximum dampening will not make the ride any
                harsher, because the adjustment only changes the extension portion of
                the dampening, meaning sway control. The compression dampening stays
                the same. The shocks come from the factory, set at the minimum
                dampening, so you will need to fallow instructions and set them to the
                max, both front and back.

                The numbers you posted are correct, but for the rear shocks, if you
                get the 88-1458SP1 instead of the SP2, you will get a much smoother
                shock. The SP1 has slightly less dampening on extension, but
                considerably less dampening on compression. As stated above, less
                dampening on compression is what gives you a smoother ride. I have had
                both, the the difference is very noticeable.

                So, in summary, I suggest Konis. Yes, they are roughly $100 more, but
                they will last longer and give you a smoother more stable ride.

                NOTE: it is very important to order the shocks by the part numbers
                given, otherwise you will get the wrong shocks that will not be ideal
                for your suspension and application (hence, a wast of money).

                Shock numbers:

                Front: 88-1641SP3

                Rear: 88-1458SP1

                Usually Brazels RV supply and LTB Auto Sports have the best prices and
                they include free shipping.

                John
                '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
                6spd.

                On 3/10/19, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends]
                <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

                > Three years (and 20,000 miles) ago I put new shocks on my bus. It had red
                > Konis, but they were so worn that gravity alone would bottom them out once
                > removed. At the time, I did not know about this site and replaced them with
                > Bilsteins. It made a HUGE difference at the time. Now I'm feeling like
                > they're not doing the job and it does bang a bit more on potholes and the
                > back does propose two or three times after crossing dips in the road. Also,
                > there is side to side rocking when crossing a curb at an angle. If it were
                > a car, I'd say replace them! But this rig never has been a "smooth" ride
                > and I think some of that is the Velvet Ride springs.. I checked my ride
                > height about 6 months ago and it was dead on whatever is was supposed to be
                > (25" as I remember). I do not have the bottoming out problems mentioned by
                > Craig... so far, anyway.
                >
                >
                > Should I replace my shocks? The Bilsteins were about $450 at the time and
                > the Konis are about $550 now... so I hate to spend that money and not see
                > any significant difference.
                >
                >
                > Here are the shocks I'm considering ordering:
                >
                >
                > Front: 88-1641SP3
                >
                > Rear: 88-1458SP2
                >
                >
                > Thanks,
                > Lee
                > '93 Continental 40'
                > 300 Cummins -- Oshkosh Chassis
                >


                Posted by: "Lee Pedigo" <lped@...>


                Reply via web post

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                Messages in this topic (10)


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                Group: Safarifriends Message: 41137 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/27/2019
                Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]
                Attachments :

                  Jim,

                   

                  Wow!  What a great document.  This is a big help… thanks.  I don’t currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals (when the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot.  I’ll get one later this week.  Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the paperwork of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in the next state working.  Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the rig too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days.  I’ve always been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the Velvet Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.  Let me know if this is an issue.  I should be able to get back at it this weekend when I put the shocks on.

                   

                  Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about shorting it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid.  Where does that big red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from?  I would like to disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to the frame and would be easily shorted out.  The battery terminal is, maybe, an inch from the frame. 

                   

                  Thanks,

                  Lee

                   

                  From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] ?
                  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                  To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]

                   

                   

                  [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                  Lee,

                  Attached is a document on testing solenoids.

                  Jim

                  On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                   

                  Jim,

                   

                  By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big ones) that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones on the side.  If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two when not energized.  Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact with the multi-meter.  My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame). 

                   

                  Is this a bad solenoid?

                   

                  Thanks,

                  Lee

                   

                  From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                  Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                  To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                  Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                   

                   

                  Lee,

                  In addition to Brett's advice, the next thing is likely the solenoid on the jack pump motor. It handles the high amperage drawn by the motor and the contact surfaces inside could be pitted and causing a higher than normal resistance.

                  Connect a voltmeter across the power terminals of the solenoid and if you read voltage, it will indicate contact resistance.

                  Jim Exler, Nampa, ID

                   

                  On 3/26/2019 7:27 AM, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                   

                  My RVA jacks have been (over the last week) extending very slowly and getting slower each time I use them.  The pump motor sounds like the batteries are almost dead, but batteries are good and strong.  Everything else works well..  I have not gotten under it yet to check fluid, etc... The pump will spin pretty well until a jack hits the ground, but then will slow down steadily until it almost stops spinning (from the sound of it, anyway).  It will no longer lift the frame up off the axles.  

                   

                  Any ideas?  I've checked all the RVA stuff I have and looked throughout this forum, but can't find anything about extending slowly.  Lots about retracting slowly, but mine seem to retract just fine.  Maybe a loose/worn wire somewhere that increases the resistance as it warms up?  

                   

                  Thanks,

                  Lee

                   

                  '93 Continental 40'

                  300 Cummins -- 6spd

                  Oshkosh Chassis

                   

                  Image removed by sender.

                  Virus-free. www.avg.com

                  Group: Safarifriends Message: 41145 From: James Exler Date: 3/27/2019
                  Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
                  Attachments :

                    Lee,

                    In lieu of a helper, we have to improvise. Do you have a second set of jack controls in the service compartment? If so, you could hook the meter with clip leads and run it from there where you could see the meter. You could also use an extension cord to extend the meter leads to a position where you can operate the jacks. Clip leads and a 120 plug with a couple of short wires would do the trick.

                    If not, disconnect the heavy cable from one side or the other on the solenoid. Next fire the solenoid with a small wire from the +12 volt wire to the small terminal. Now you can read the resistance across the contact points. It should be nearly zero. Don't try this with both sides of the solenoid connected, the ohmmeter will not like it.

                    Jim

                    On 3/26/2019 8:04 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:
                     

                    Jim,

                     

                    Wow!  What a great document.  This is a big help… thanks.  I don’t currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals (when the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot.  I’ll get one later this week.  Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the paperwork of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in the next state working.  Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the rig too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days.  I’ve always been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the Velvet Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.  Let me know if this is an issue.  I should be able to get back at it this weekend when I put the shocks on.

                     

                    Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about shorting it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid.  Where does that big red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from?  I would like to disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to the frame and would be easily shorted out.  The battery terminal is, maybe, an inch from the frame. 

                     

                    Thanks,

                    Lee

                     

                    From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] ?
                    Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                    To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]

                     

                     

                    [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                    Lee,

                    Attached is a document on testing solenoids.

                    Jim

                    On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                     

                    Jim,

                     

                    By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big ones) that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones on the side.  If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two when not energized.  Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact with the multi-meter.  My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame). 

                     

                    Is this a bad solenoid?

                     

                    Thanks,

                    Lee

                     

                    From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                    Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                    To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                    Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                     

                     

                    Lee,

                    In addition to Brett's advice, the next thing is likely the solenoid on the jack pump motor. It handles the high amperage drawn by the motor and the contact surfaces inside could be pitted and causing a higher than normal resistance.

                    Connect a voltmeter across the power terminals of the solenoid and if you read voltage, it will indicate contact resistance.

                    Jim Exler, Nampa, ID

                     

                    On 3/26/2019 7:27 AM, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                     

                    My RVA jacks have been (over the last week) extending very slowly and getting slower each time I use them.  The pump motor sounds like the batteries are almost dead, but batteries are good and strong.  Everything else works well..  I have not gotten under it yet to check fluid, etc... The pump will spin pretty well until a jack hits the ground, but then will slow down steadily until it almost stops spinning (from the sound of it, anyway).  It will no longer lift the frame up off the axles.  

                     

                    Any ideas?  I've checked all the RVA stuff I have and looked throughout this forum, but can't find anything about extending slowly.  Lots about retracting slowly, but mine seem to retract just fine.  Maybe a loose/worn wire somewhere that increases the resistance as it warms up?  

                     

                    Thanks,

                    Lee

                     

                    '93 Continental 40'

                    300 Cummins -- 6spd

                    Oshkosh Chassis

                     

                    Image removed by
                                                  sender.

                    Virus-free. www.avg..com

                    Group: Safarifriends Message: 41161 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/30/2019
                    Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
                    Attachments :

                      Jim, Taylor, and everybody else

                       

                      Thanks for the help!  The old solenoid checks out good.  To me it appears the problem is with the cable from the chassis batteries.  My chassis batteries show 13.56 volts at the batteries.  I show 12.07 at the solenoid.  I went ahead and bought a new solenoid as mine is 26 years old and they’re pretty cheap… changed it out and that one has the same problem.  Slow pump motor which gets slower as your run a jack down. 

                       

                      As I can’t find a wiring diagram that shows the RVA pump, I’m not sure where to go from here.  I’m pretty familiar with series and parallel battery circuits and it seems my chassis batteries are two 12v batteries wired parallel.  But… there’s a jumper wires running from the house batteries (4ea of 12v) to the chassis batteries.  I’ve searched the files in this forum and can’t find any wiring diagrams that show both the house and chassis batteries.  In fact, I can’t find many that show the chassis battery system. What do these jumpers do? 

                       

                      But my main question is from where does the cable from the RVA pump come? It’s about 25’ from the pump to the batteries and the cable is in a plastic loom (sheath) buried amongst other looms, hoses, etc.  The lug at the pump seems tight and I cleaned it.  I  may be able to use a wire tracer and find it, but I’ll probably get a signal from anything and everything connected the to the batteries.  Any idea where the end of this cable is?

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      ’93 Continental 40’

                      300 Cummins – 6spd

                      Oshkosh Chassis

                       

                       

                       

                       

                       

                      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                      Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2019 7:52 PM
                      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                       

                       

                      Lee,

                      In lieu of a helper, we have to improvise. Do you have a second set of jack controls in the service compartment? If so, you could hook the meter with clip leads and run it from there where you could see the meter. You could also use an extension cord to extend the meter leads to a position where you can operate the jacks. Clip leads and a 120 plug with a couple of short wires would do the trick.

                      If not, disconnect the heavy cable from one side or the other on the solenoid. Next fire the solenoid with a small wire from the +12 volt wire to the small terminal. Now you can read the resistance across the contact points. It should be nearly zero. Don't try this with both sides of the solenoid connected, the ohmmeter will not like it.

                      Jim

                      On 3/26/2019 8:04 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                       

                      Jim,

                       

                      Wow!  What a great document.  This is a big help… thanks.  I don’t currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals (when the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot.  I’ll get one later this week.  Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the paperwork of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in the next state working.  Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the rig too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days.  I’ve always been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the Velvet Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.  Let me know if this is an issue.  I should be able to get back at it this weekend when I put the shocks on.

                       

                      Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about shorting it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid.  Where does that big red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from?  I would like to disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to the frame and would be easily shorted out.  The battery terminal is, maybe, an inch from the frame. 

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] ?
                      Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]

                       

                       

                      [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                      Lee,

                      Attached is a document on testing solenoids.

                      Jim

                      On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                       

                      Jim,

                       

                      By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big ones) that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones on the side.  If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two when not energized.  Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact with the multi-meter.  My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame). 

                       

                      Is this a bad solenoid?

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                      Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                       

                       

                      Lee,

                      In addition to Brett's advice, the next thing is likely the solenoid on the jack pump motor. It handles the high amperage drawn by the motor and the contact surfaces inside could be pitted and causing a higher than normal resistance.

                      Connect a voltmeter across the power terminals of the solenoid and if you read voltage, it will indicate contact resistance.

                      Jim Exler, Nampa, ID

                       

                      On 3/26/2019 7:27 AM, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                       

                      My RVA jacks have been (over the last week) extending very slowly and getting slower each time I use them.  The pump motor sounds like the batteries are almost dead, but batteries are good and strong.  Everything else works well..  I have not gotten under it yet to check fluid, etc... The pump will spin pretty well until a jack hits the ground, but then will slow down steadily until it almost stops spinning (from the sound of it, anyway).  It will no longer lift the frame up off the axles.  

                       

                      Any ideas?  I've checked all the RVA stuff I have and looked throughout this forum, but can't find anything about extending slowly.  Lots about retracting slowly, but mine seem to retract just fine.  Maybe a loose/worn wire somewhere that increases the resistance as it warms up?  

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      '93 Continental 40'

                      300 Cummins -- 6spd

                      Oshkosh Chassis

                       

                      Image removed by
                                                  sender.

                      Virus-free. www.avg..com

                      Group: Safarifriends Message: 41162 From: James Exler Date: 3/30/2019
                      Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                      Lee,

                      Attached is two primary diagrams for a 93 beaver which may be close to what you have. One is with an isolator and the other uses the solenoid. Don't trust Safari to be consistent.

                      You may have to replace the main cable to the pump. Sounds like fun. As far as jumpers at the batteries, the chassis set should not be crossed to the house batteries though you could connect all the grounds together as they end up that way. The positive sides need to be their own systems and should not be cross connected.

                      Jim Exler

                      On 3/30/2019 1:37 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:
                       

                      Jim, Taylor, and everybody else

                       

                      Thanks for the help!  The old solenoid checks out good.  To me it appears the problem is with the cable from the chassis batteries.  My chassis batteries show 13.56 volts at the batteries..  I show 12.07 at the solenoid.  I went ahead and bought a new solenoid as mine is 26 years old and they’re pretty cheap… changed it out and that one has the same problem.  Slow pump motor which gets slower as your run a jack down. 

                       

                      As I can’t find a wiring diagram that shows the RVA pump, I’m not sure where to go from here.  I’m pretty familiar with series and parallel battery circuits and it seems my chassis batteries are two 12v batteries wired parallel.  But… there’s a jumper wires running from the house batteries (4ea of 12v) to the chassis batteries.  I’ve searched the files in this forum and can’t find any wiring diagrams that show both the house and chassis batteries.  In fact, I can’t find many that show the chassis battery system. What do these jumpers do? 

                       

                      But my main question is from where does the cable from the RVA pump come? It’s about 25’ from the pump to the batteries and the cable is in a plastic loom (sheath) buried amongst other looms, hoses, etc.  The lug at the pump seems tight and I cleaned it.  I  may be able to use a wire tracer and find it, but I’ll probably get a signal from anything and everything connected the to the batteries.  Any idea where the end of this cable is?

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      ’93 Continental 40’

                      300 Cummins – 6spd

                      Oshkosh Chassis

                       

                       

                       

                       

                       

                      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                      Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2019 7:52 PM
                      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                       

                       

                      Lee,

                      In lieu of a helper, we have to improvise. Do you have a second set of jack controls in the service compartment? If so, you could hook the meter with clip leads and run it from there where you could see the meter. You could also use an extension cord to extend the meter leads to a position where you can operate the jacks. Clip leads and a 120 plug with a couple of short wires would do the trick.

                      If not, disconnect the heavy cable from one side or the other on the solenoid. Next fire the solenoid with a small wire from the +12 volt wire to the small terminal. Now you can read the resistance across the contact points. It should be nearly zero. Don't try this with both sides of the solenoid connected, the ohmmeter will not like it.

                      Jim

                      On 3/26/2019 8:04 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                       

                      Jim,

                       

                      Wow!  What a great document.  This is a big help… thanks.  I don’t currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals (when the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot.  I’ll get one later this week.  Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the paperwork of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in the next state working.  Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the rig too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days.  I’ve always been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the Velvet Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.  Let me know if this is an issue.  I should be able to get back at it this weekend when I put the shocks on.

                       

                      Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about shorting it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid.  Where does that big red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from?  I would like to disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to the frame and would be easily shorted out.  The battery terminal is, maybe, an inch from the frame. 

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] ?
                      Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]

                       

                       

                      [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                      Lee,

                      Attached is a document on testing solenoids.

                      Jim

                      On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                       

                      Jim,

                       

                      By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big ones) that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones on the side.  If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two when not energized.  Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact with the multi-meter.  My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame). 

                       

                      Is this a bad solenoid?

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                      Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                      To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                      Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                       

                       

                      Lee,

                      In addition to Brett's advice, the next thing is likely the solenoid on the jack pump motor. It handles the high amperage drawn by the motor and the contact surfaces inside could be pitted and causing a higher than normal resistance.

                      Connect a voltmeter across the power terminals of the solenoid and if you read voltage, it will indicate contact resistance.

                      Jim Exler, Nampa, ID

                       

                      On 3/26/2019 7:27 AM, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                       

                      My RVA jacks have been (over the last week) extending very slowly and getting slower each time I use them.  The pump motor sounds like the batteries are almost dead, but batteries are good and strong.  Everything else works well..  I have not gotten under it yet to check fluid, etc... The pump will spin pretty well until a jack hits the ground, but then will slow down steadily until it almost stops spinning (from the sound of it, anyway).  It will no longer lift the frame up off the axles.  

                       

                      Any ideas?  I've checked all the RVA stuff I have and looked throughout this forum, but can't find anything about extending slowly.  Lots about retracting slowly, but mine seem to retract just fine.  Maybe a loose/worn wire somewhere that increases the resistance as it warms up?  

                       

                      Thanks,

                      Lee

                       

                      '93 Continental 40'

                      300 Cummins -- 6spd

                      Oshkosh Chassis

                       

                      Image
                                                          removed by
                                                          sender.

                      Virus-free. www.avg..com

                      Group: Safarifriends Message: 41168 From: Lee Pedigo Date: 3/31/2019
                      Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [2 Attachments]
                      Attachments :

                        Jim,

                         

                        Thanks for the quick reply and the diagrams.  I’ve never seen a junction or a battery cutoff, so I think mine may go straight to the batteries or possibly to something under the bed.  I’ll put a tracer on the pump end and see if I can find where it goes.  I let you know when I do. 

                         

                        As for the jumpers, I think there were two (and red and black) which went from a positive and negative terminals on two different house batteries to the respective terminals on the two chassis batteries.  Sounds very weird to me, but the guy I bought the rig from (second owner) was a serious jury-rigger.  I think everything he did was with bailing wire, zip ties, and wire nuts.  I typically use butt splices for DC stuff as that was how we did it on aircraft.  Anyway, it appears he did do some battery wiring work as the cables are of different brands and some of the ends are different.  Looks very rat’s nest-like.  I’ve been meaning to rewire all the batteries and clean it up, but not yet. 

                         

                        The big red cable (3/0???) to the house batteries has a lug eyelet that’s about to break.  I could feel it bend easily as I was removing it, so I’ll have to replace that.  Any recommendations on crimpers that size?  Amazon has several hammer type that go that large.  Maybe O’Reilies or Napa will custom make me another cable… but I’ll have to remove it. 

                         

                        Thanks,

                        Lee

                         

                        '93 Continental 40'

                        300 Cummins -- 6spd

                        Oshkosh Chassis

                         

                         

                         

                        From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                        Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2019 2:59 PM
                        To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [2 Attachments]

                         

                         

                        [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                        Lee,

                        Attached is two primary diagrams for a 93 beaver which may be close to what you have. One is with an isolator and the other uses the solenoid. Don't trust Safari to be consistent.

                        You may have to replace the main cable to the pump. Sounds like fun. As far as jumpers at the batteries, the chassis set should not be crossed to the house batteries though you could connect all the grounds together as they end up that way. The positive sides need to be their own systems and should not be cross connected.

                        Jim Exler

                        On 3/30/2019 1:37 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                         

                        Jim, Taylor, and everybody else

                         

                        Thanks for the help!  The old solenoid checks out good.  To me it appears the problem is with the cable from the chassis batteries.  My chassis batteries show 13.56 volts at the batteries..  I show 12.07 at the solenoid.  I went ahead and bought a new solenoid as mine is 26 years old and they’re pretty cheap… changed it out and that one has the same problem.  Slow pump motor which gets slower as your run a jack down. 

                         

                        As I can’t find a wiring diagram that shows the RVA pump, I’m not sure where to go from here.  I’m pretty familiar with series and parallel battery circuits and it seems my chassis batteries are two 12v batteries wired parallel.  But… there’s a jumper wires running from the house batteries (4ea of 12v) to the chassis batteries.  I’ve searched the files in this forum and can’t find any wiring diagrams that show both the house and chassis batteries.  In fact, I can’t find many that show the chassis battery system. What do these jumpers do? 

                         

                        But my main question is from where does the cable from the RVA pump come? It’s about 25’ from the pump to the batteries and the cable is in a plastic loom (sheath) buried amongst other looms, hoses, etc.  The lug at the pump seems tight and I cleaned it.  I  may be able to use a wire tracer and find it, but I’ll probably get a signal from anything and everything connected the to the batteries.  Any idea where the end of this cable is?

                         

                        Thanks,

                        Lee

                         

                        ’93 Continental 40’

                        300 Cummins – 6spd

                        Oshkosh Chassis

                         

                         

                         

                         

                         

                        From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                        Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2019 7:52 PM
                        To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                         

                         

                        Lee,

                        In lieu of a helper, we have to improvise. Do you have a second set of jack controls in the service compartment? If so, you could hook the meter with clip leads and run it from there where you could see the meter. You could also use an extension cord to extend the meter leads to a position where you can operate the jacks. Clip leads and a 120 plug with a couple of short wires would do the trick.

                        If not, disconnect the heavy cable from one side or the other on the solenoid. Next fire the solenoid with a small wire from the +12 volt wire to the small terminal. Now you can read the resistance across the contact points. It should be nearly zero. Don't try this with both sides of the solenoid connected, the ohmmeter will not like it.

                        Jim

                        On 3/26/2019 8:04 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                         

                        Jim,

                         

                        Wow!  What a great document.  This is a big help… thanks.  I don’t currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals (when the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot.  I’ll get one later this week.  Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the paperwork of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in the next state working.  Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the rig too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days.  I’ve always been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the Velvet Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.  Let me know if this is an issue.  I should be able to get back at it this weekend when I put the shocks on.

                         

                        Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about shorting it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid.  Where does that big red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from?  I would like to disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to the frame and would be easily shorted out.  The battery terminal is, maybe, an inch from the frame. 

                         

                        Thanks,

                        Lee

                         

                        From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] ?
                        Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                        To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]

                         

                         

                        [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                        Lee,

                        Attached is a document on testing solenoids.

                        Jim

                        On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                         

                        Jim,

                         

                        By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big ones) that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones on the side.  If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two when not energized.  Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact with the multi-meter.  My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame). 

                         

                        Is this a bad solenoid?

                         

                        Thanks,

                        Lee

                         

                        From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                        Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                        To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                        Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                         

                         

                        Lee,

                        In addition to Brett's advice, the next thing is likely the solenoid on the jack pump motor. It handles the high amperage drawn by the motor and the contact surfaces inside could be pitted and causing a higher than normal resistance.

                        Connect a voltmeter across the power terminals of the solenoid and if you read voltage, it will indicate contact resistance.

                        Jim Exler, Nampa, ID

                         

                        On 3/26/2019 7:27 AM, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                         

                        My RVA jacks have been (over the last week) extending very slowly and getting slower each time I use them.  The pump motor sounds like the batteries are almost dead, but batteries are good and strong.  Everything else works well..  I have not gotten under it yet to check fluid, etc... The pump will spin pretty well until a jack hits the ground, but then will slow down steadily until it almost stops spinning (from the sound of it, anyway).  It will no longer lift the frame up off the axles.  

                         

                        Any ideas?  I've checked all the RVA stuff I have and looked throughout this forum, but can't find anything about extending slowly.  Lots about retracting slowly, but mine seem to retract just fine.  Maybe a loose/worn wire somewhere that increases the resistance as it warms up?  

                         

                        Thanks,

                        Lee

                         

                        '93 Continental 40'

                        300 Cummins -- 6spd

                        Oshkosh Chassis

                         

                        Image
                                                          removed by
                                                          sender.

                        Virus-free. www.avg..com

                        Group: Safarifriends Message: 41171 From: Gary Smith Date: 3/31/2019
                        Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
                        Attachments :
                          Lee,
                          It may be overkill, but here's the crimper I got off Amazon:

                          https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B00GXQ2E5E&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss

                          Re-cabled my house batteries, using 3/0 welding cable and lugs, also from Amazon, between the batteries and all the way to the inverter, with heat shrink at every lug/cable.  When doing so I found SMC had run part of it with 3/0 and part with 2/0.  In the process I re-routed the cables that ran off the back end of the battery tray so they are no longer in the way when trying to stow the battery tray and not being pulled in and out when working on the batteries..  I plan on re-doing the chassis battery runs as well. 

                          My RVA pump is located within a foot of the chassis batteries, and I believe is powered off them, although the cable connection is not directly at the batteries.  If you disconnect the house battery bank and the jacks can still be operated, you will know for sure.  When I ran the cable from my house battery bank I don't recall a connection to the RVA pump being involved.

                          On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 12:34 PM 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                           

                          Jim,

                           

                          Thanks for the quick reply and the diagrams.  I’ve never seen a junction or a battery cutoff, so I think mine may go straight to the batteries or possibly to something under the bed.  I’ll put a tracer on the pump end and see if I can find where it goes.  I let you know when I do. 

                           

                          As for the jumpers, I think there were two (and red and black) which went from a positive and negative terminals on two different house batteries to the respective terminals on the two chassis batteries.  Sounds very weird to me, but the guy I bought the rig from (second owner) was a serious jury-rigger.  I think everything he did was with bailing wire, zip ties, and wire nuts.  I typically use butt splices for DC stuff as that was how we did it on aircraft..  Anyway, it appears he did do some battery wiring work as the cables are of different brands and some of the ends are different.  Looks very rat’s nest-like.  I’ve been meaning to rewire all the batteries and clean it up, but not yet. 

                           

                          The big red cable (3/0???) to the house batteries has a lug eyelet that’s about to break.  I could feel it bend easily as I was removing it, so I’ll have to replace that.  Any recommendations on crimpers that size?  Amazon has several hammer type that go that large.  Maybe O’Reilies or Napa will custom make me another cable… but I’ll have to remove it. 

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          '93 Continental 40'

                          300 Cummins -- 6spd

                          Oshkosh Chassis

                           

                           

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                          Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2019 2:59 PM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [2 Attachments]

                           

                           

                          [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                          Lee,

                          Attached is two primary diagrams for a 93 beaver which may be close to what you have. One is with an isolator and the other uses the solenoid. Don't trust Safari to be consistent.

                          You may have to replace the main cable to the pump. Sounds like fun. As far as jumpers at the batteries, the chassis set should not be crossed to the house batteries though you could connect all the grounds together as they end up that way. The positive sides need to be their own systems and should not be cross connected.

                          Jim Exler

                          On 3/30/2019 1:37 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                           

                          Jim, Taylor, and everybody else

                           

                          Thanks for the help!  The old solenoid checks out good.  To me it appears the problem is with the cable from the chassis batteries.  My chassis batteries show 13.56 volts at the batteries..  I show 12.07 at the solenoid.  I went ahead and bought a new solenoid as mine is 26 years old and they’re pretty cheap… changed it out and that one has the same problem.  Slow pump motor which gets slower as your run a jack down. 

                           

                          As I can’t find a wiring diagram that shows the RVA pump, I’m not sure where to go from here.  I’m pretty familiar with series and parallel battery circuits and it seems my chassis batteries are two 12v batteries wired parallel.  But… there’s a jumper wires running from the house batteries (4ea of 12v) to the chassis batteries.  I’ve searched the files in this forum and can’t find any wiring diagrams that show both the house and chassis batteries.  In fact, I can’t find many that show the chassis battery system. What do these jumpers do? 

                           

                          But my main question is from where does the cable from the RVA pump come? It’s about 25’ from the pump to the batteries and the cable is in a plastic loom (sheath) buried amongst other looms, hoses, etc.  The lug at the pump seems tight and I cleaned it.  I  may be able to use a wire tracer and find it, but I’ll probably get a signal from anything and everything connected the to the batteries.  Any idea where the end of this cable is?

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          ’93 Continental 40’

                          300 Cummins – 6spd

                          Oshkosh Chassis

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                          Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2019 7:52 PM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                           

                           

                          Lee,

                          In lieu of a helper, we have to improvise. Do you have a second set of jack controls in the service compartment? If so, you could hook the meter with clip leads and run it from there where you could see the meter. You could also use an extension cord to extend the meter leads to a position where you can operate the jacks. Clip leads and a 120 plug with a couple of short wires would do the trick.

                          If not, disconnect the heavy cable from one side or the other on the solenoid. Next fire the solenoid with a small wire from the +12 volt wire to the small terminal. Now you can read the resistance across the contact points. It should be nearly zero. Don't try this with both sides of the solenoid connected, the ohmmeter will not like it.

                          Jim

                          On 3/26/2019 8:04 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                           

                          Jim,

                           

                          Wow!  What a great document.  This is a big help… thanks.  I don’t currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals (when the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot.  I’ll get one later this week.  Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the paperwork of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in the next state working.  Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the rig too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days.  I’ve always been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the Velvet Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.  Let me know if this is an issue.  I should be able to get back at it this weekend when I put the shocks on.

                           

                          Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about shorting it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid.  Where does that big red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from?  I would like to disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to the frame and would be easily shorted out.  The battery terminal is, maybe, an inch from the frame.. 

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] ?
                          Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]

                           

                           

                          [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                          Lee,

                          Attached is a document on testing solenoids.

                          Jim

                          On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                           

                          Jim,

                           

                          By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big ones) that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones on the side.  If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two when not energized.  Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact with the multi-meter.  My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame). 

                           

                          Is this a bad solenoid?

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                          Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                           

                           

                          Lee,

                          In addition to Brett's advice, the next thing is likely the solenoid on the jack pump motor. It handles the high amperage drawn by the motor and the contact surfaces inside could be pitted and causing a higher than normal resistance.

                          Connect a voltmeter across the power terminals of the solenoid and if you read voltage, it will indicate contact resistance.

                          Jim Exler, Nampa, ID

                           

                          On 3/26/2019 7:27 AM, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                           

                          My RVA jacks have been (over the last week) extending very slowly and getting slower each time I use them.  The pump motor sounds like the batteries are almost dead, but batteries are good and strong.  Everything else works well..  I have not gotten under it yet to check fluid, etc... The pump will spin pretty well until a jack hits the ground, but then will slow down steadily until it almost stops spinning (from the sound of it, anyway).  It will no longer lift the frame up off the axles.  

                           

                          Any ideas?  I've checked all the RVA stuff I have and looked throughout this forum, but can't find anything about extending slowly.  Lots about retracting slowly, but mine seem to retract just fine.  Maybe a loose/worn wire somewhere that increases the resistance as it warms up?  

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          '93 Continental 40'

                          300 Cummins -- 6spd

                          Oshkosh Chassis

                           

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                          --
                          Gary Smith
                          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41172 From: technolog1 Date: 3/31/2019
                          Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
                          They may rent crimpers also.



                          Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

                          -------- Original message --------
                          From: "Gary Smith trekker01@... [Safarifriends]" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
                          Date: 3/31/19 12:49 PM (GMT-06:00)
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                           

                          Lee,
                          It may be overkill, but here's the crimper I got off Amazon:

                          https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B00GXQ2E5E&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss

                          Re-cabled my house batteries, using 3/0 welding cable and lugs, also from Amazon, between the batteries and all the way to the inverter, with heat shrink at every lug/cable.  When doing so I found SMC had run part of it with 3/0 and part with 2/0.  In the process I re-routed the cables that ran off the back end of the battery tray so they are no longer in the way when trying to stow the battery tray and not being pulled in and out when working on the batteries..  I plan on re-doing the chassis battery runs as well. 

                          My RVA pump is located within a foot of the chassis batteries, and I believe is powered off them, although the cable connection is not directly at the batteries.  If you disconnect the house battery bank and the jacks can still be operated, you will know for sure.  When I ran the cable from my house battery bank I don't recall a connection to the RVA pump being involved.

                          On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 12:34 PM 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                           

                          Jim,

                           

                          Thanks for the quick reply and the diagrams.  I’ve never seen a junction or a battery cutoff, so I think mine may go straight to the batteries or possibly to something under the bed.  I’ll put a tracer on the pump end and see if I can find where it goes.  I let you know when I do. 

                           

                          As for the jumpers, I think there were two (and red and black) which went from a positive and negative terminals on two different house batteries to the respective terminals on the two chassis batteries.  Sounds very weird to me, but the guy I bought the rig from (second owner) was a serious jury-rigger.  I think everything he did was with bailing wire, zip ties, and wire nuts.  I typically use butt splices for DC stuff as that was how we did it on aircraft..  Anyway, it appears he did do some battery wiring work as the cables are of different brands and some of the ends are different.  Looks very rat’s nest-like.  I’ve been meaning to rewire all the batteries and clean it up, but not yet. 

                           

                          The big red cable (3/0???) to the house batteries has a lug eyelet that’s about to break.  I could feel it bend easily as I was removing it, so I’ll have to replace that.  Any recommendations on crimpers that size?  Amazon has several hammer type that go that large.  Maybe O’Reilies or Napa will custom make me another cable… but I’ll have to remove it. 

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          '93 Continental 40'

                          300 Cummins -- 6spd

                          Oshkosh Chassis

                           

                           

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                          Sent: Saturday, March 30, 2019 2:59 PM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [2 Attachments]

                           

                           

                          [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                          Lee,

                          Attached is two primary diagrams for a 93 beaver which may be close to what you have. One is with an isolator and the other uses the solenoid. Don't trust Safari to be consistent.

                          You may have to replace the main cable to the pump. Sounds like fun. As far as jumpers at the batteries, the chassis set should not be crossed to the house batteries though you could connect all the grounds together as they end up that way. The positive sides need to be their own systems and should not be cross connected.

                          Jim Exler

                          On 3/30/2019 1:37 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                           

                          Jim, Taylor, and everybody else

                           

                          Thanks for the help!  The old solenoid checks out good.  To me it appears the problem is with the cable from the chassis batteries.  My chassis batteries show 13.56 volts at the batteries..  I show 12.07 at the solenoid.  I went ahead and bought a new solenoid as mine is 26 years old and they’re pretty cheap… changed it out and that one has the same problem.  Slow pump motor which gets slower as your run a jack down. 

                           

                          As I can’t find a wiring diagram that shows the RVA pump, I’m not sure where to go from here..  I’m pretty familiar with series and parallel battery circuits and it seems my chassis batteries are two 12v batteries wired parallel.  But… there’s a jumper wires running from the house batteries (4ea of 12v) to the chassis batteries.  I’ve searched the files in this forum and can’t find any wiring diagrams that show both the house and chassis batteries.  In fact, I can’t find many that show the chassis battery system. What do these jumpers do? 

                           

                          But my main question is from where does the cable from the RVA pump come? It’s about 25’ from the pump to the batteries and the cable is in a plastic loom (sheath) buried amongst other looms, hoses, etc.  The lug at the pump seems tight and I cleaned it.  I  may be able to use a wire tracer and find it, but I’ll probably get a signal from anything and everything connected the to the batteries.  Any idea where the end of this cable is?

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          ’93 Continental 40’

                          300 Cummins – 6spd

                          Oshkosh Chassis

                           

                           

                           

                           

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                          Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2019 7:52 PM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                           

                           

                          Lee,

                          In lieu of a helper, we have to improvise. Do you have a second set of jack controls in the service compartment? If so, you could hook the meter with clip leads and run it from there where you could see the meter. You could also use an extension cord to extend the meter leads to a position where you can operate the jacks. Clip leads and a 120 plug with a couple of short wires would do the trick.

                          If not, disconnect the heavy cable from one side or the other on the solenoid. Next fire the solenoid with a small wire from the +12 volt wire to the small terminal. Now you can read the resistance across the contact points. It should be nearly zero. Don't try this with both sides of the solenoid connected, the ohmmeter will not like it.

                          Jim

                          On 3/26/2019 8:04 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                           

                          Jim,

                           

                          Wow!  What a great document.  This is a big help… thanks.  I don’t currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals (when the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot.  I’ll get one later this week.  Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the paperwork of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in the next state working.  Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the rig too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days.  I’ve always been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the Velvet Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.  Let me know if this is an issue.  I should be able to get back at it this weekend when I put the shocks on.

                           

                          Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about shorting it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid.  Where does that big red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from?  I would like to disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to the frame and would be easily shorted out.  The battery terminal is, maybe, an inch from the frame.. 

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] ?
                          Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]

                           

                           

                          [Attachment(s) from James Exler included below]

                          Lee,

                          Attached is a document on testing solenoids.

                          Jim

                          On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends] wrote:

                           

                          Jim,

                           

                          By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big ones) that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones on the side.  If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two when not energized.  Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact with the multi-meter.  My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame). 

                           

                          Is this a bad solenoid?

                           

                          Thanks,

                          Lee

                           

                          From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                          Sent: Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                          To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly

                           <

                          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41189 From: TD Date: 3/31/2019
                          Subject: Re: RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
                          Lee, I bought that same tool that Gary mentioned. It is worth its
                          weight in gold...

                          John
                          '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, 300 Cummins 8.3CTA, Allison
                          6spd.

                          On 3/31/19, Gary Smith trekker01@... [Safarifriends]
                          <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                          > Lee,
                          > It may be overkill, but here's the crimper I got off Amazon:
                          >
                          > https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B00GXQ2E5E&i=tools&ref=nb_sb_noss
                          >
                          > Re-cabled my house batteries, using 3/0 welding cable and lugs, also from
                          > Amazon, between the batteries and all the way to the inverter, with heat
                          > shrink at every lug/cable. When doing so I found SMC had run part of it
                          > with 3/0 and part with 2/0. In the process I re-routed the cables that ran
                          > off the back end of the battery tray so they are no longer in the way when
                          > trying to stow the battery tray and not being pulled in and out when
                          > working on the batteries.. I plan on re-doing the chassis battery runs as
                          > well.
                          >
                          > My RVA pump is located within a foot of the chassis batteries, and I
                          > believe is powered off them, although the cable connection is not directly
                          > at the batteries. If you disconnect the house battery bank and the jacks
                          > can still be operated, you will know for sure. When I ran the cable from
                          > my house battery bank I don't recall a connection to the RVA pump being
                          > involved.
                          >
                          > On Sun, Mar 31, 2019 at 12:34 PM 'Lee Pedigo' lped@...
                          > [Safarifriends] <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                          >
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Jim,
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Thanks for the quick reply and the diagrams. I’ve never seen a junction
                          >> or a battery cutoff, so I think mine may go straight to the batteries or
                          >> possibly to something under the bed. I’ll put a tracer on the pump end
                          >> and
                          >> see if I can find where it goes. I let you know when I do.
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> As for the jumpers, I think there were two (and red and black) which went
                          >> from a positive and negative terminals on two different house batteries
                          >> to
                          >> the respective terminals on the two chassis batteries. Sounds very weird
                          >> to me, but the guy I bought the rig from (second owner) was a serious
                          >> jury-rigger. I think everything he did was with bailing wire, zip ties,
                          >> and wire nuts. I typically use butt splices for DC stuff as that was how
                          >> we did it on aircraft.. Anyway, it appears he did do some battery wiring
                          >> work as the cables are of different brands and some of the ends are
                          >> different. Looks very rat’s nest-like. I’ve been meaning to rewire all
                          >> the batteries and clean it up, but not yet.
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> The big red cable (3/0???) to the house batteries has a lug eyelet that’s
                          >> about to break. I could feel it bend easily as I was removing it, so
                          >> I’ll
                          >> have to replace that. Any recommendations on crimpers that size? Amazon
                          >> has several hammer type that go that large. Maybe O’Reilies or Napa will
                          >> custom make me another cable… but I’ll have to remove it.
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Thanks,
                          >>
                          >> Lee
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> '93 Continental 40'
                          >>
                          >> 300 Cummins -- 6spd
                          >>
                          >> Oshkosh Chassis
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> *From:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
                          >> Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com]
                          >> *Sent:* Saturday, March 30, 2019 2:59 PM
                          >> *To:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          >> *Subject:* Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [2 Attachments]
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> *[Attachment(s) <#m_-1600875772204863269_TopText> from James Exler
                          >> included below]*
                          >>
                          >> Lee,
                          >>
                          >> Attached is two primary diagrams for a 93 beaver which may be close to
                          >> what you have. One is with an isolator and the other uses the solenoid.
                          >> Don't trust Safari to be consistent.
                          >>
                          >> You may have to replace the main cable to the pump. Sounds like fun. As
                          >> far as jumpers at the batteries, the chassis set should not be crossed to
                          >> the house batteries though you could connect all the grounds together as
                          >> they end up that way. The positive sides need to be their own systems and
                          >> should not be cross connected.
                          >>
                          >> Jim Exler
                          >>
                          >> On 3/30/2019 1:37 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends]
                          >> wrote:
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Jim, Taylor, and everybody else
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Thanks for the help! The old solenoid checks out good. To me it appears
                          >> the problem is with the cable from the chassis batteries. My chassis
                          >> batteries show 13.56 volts at the batteries.. I show 12.07 at the
                          >> solenoid. I went ahead and bought a new solenoid as mine is 26 years old
                          >> and they’re pretty cheap… changed it out and that one has the same
                          >> problem. Slow pump motor which gets slower as your run a jack down.
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> As I can’t find a wiring diagram that shows the RVA pump, I’m not sure
                          >> where to go from here. I’m pretty familiar with series and parallel
                          >> battery circuits and it seems my chassis batteries are two 12v batteries
                          >> wired parallel. But… there’s a jumper wires running from the house
                          >> batteries (4ea of 12v) to the chassis batteries. I’ve searched the files
                          >> in this forum and can’t find any wiring diagrams that show both the house
                          >> and chassis batteries. In fact, I can’t find many that show the chassis
                          >> battery system. What do these jumpers do?
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> But my main question is from where does the cable from the RVA pump come?
                          >> It’s about 25’ from the pump to the batteries and the cable is in a
                          >> plastic
                          >> loom (sheath) buried amongst other looms, hoses, etc. The lug at the
                          >> pump
                          >> seems tight and I cleaned it. I may be able to use a wire tracer and
                          >> find
                          >> it, but I’ll probably get a signal from anything and everything connected
                          >> the to the batteries. Any idea where the end of this cable is?
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Thanks,
                          >>
                          >> Lee
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> ’93 Continental 40’
                          >>
                          >> 300 Cummins – 6spd
                          >>
                          >> Oshkosh Chassis
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> *From:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [
                          >> mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>]
                          >> *Sent:* Wednesday, March 27, 2019 7:52 PM
                          >> *To:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          >> *Subject:* Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Lee,
                          >>
                          >> In lieu of a helper, we have to improvise. Do you have a second set of
                          >> jack controls in the service compartment? If so, you could hook the meter
                          >> with clip leads and run it from there where you could see the meter. You
                          >> could also use an extension cord to extend the meter leads to a position
                          >> where you can operate the jacks. Clip leads and a 120 plug with a couple
                          >> of
                          >> short wires would do the trick.
                          >>
                          >> If not, disconnect the heavy cable from one side or the other on the
                          >> solenoid. Next fire the solenoid with a small wire from the +12 volt wire
                          >> to the small terminal. Now you can read the resistance across the contact
                          >> points. It should be nearly zero. Don't try this with both sides of the
                          >> solenoid connected, the ohmmeter will not like it.
                          >>
                          >> Jim
                          >>
                          >> On 3/26/2019 8:04 PM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends]
                          >> wrote:
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Jim,
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Wow! What a great document. This is a big help… thanks. I don’t
                          >> currently have anyone to help me (press buttons in cab while I’m
                          >> underneath), but I am getting full voltage across the power terminals
                          >> (when
                          >> the circuit should be closed), so I figure the solenoid is shot. I’ll
                          >> get
                          >> one later this week. Presently, I’m extremely busy doing all the
                          >> paperwork
                          >> of selling one house and buying another, moving to another state, and
                          >> playing Mr Mom to seven and nine year old girls while my wife if over in
                          >> the next state working. Soooooo…. I was wondering if it would hurt the
                          >> rig
                          >> too much to leave it sitting on the suspension for a few days. I’ve
                          >> always
                          >> been very careful to keep the weight off the “rubber springs” of the
                          >> Velvet
                          >> Ride, but am simply overwhelmed with keeping up a life aside from the RV.
                          >> Let me know if this is an issue. I should be able to get back at it this
                          >> weekend when I put the shocks on.
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Also, this is obviously a very high amp circuit and I worry about
                          >> shorting
                          >> it out while cleaning and changing out the solenoid. Where does that big
                          >> red wire on the battery side of the solenoid come from? I would like to
                          >> disconnect it before working on it as the solenoid as it’s right next to
                          >> the frame and would be easily shorted out. The battery terminal is,
                          >> maybe,
                          >> an inch from the frame..
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Thanks,
                          >>
                          >> Lee
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> *From:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [
                          >> mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>] ?
                          >> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 26, 2019 1:09 PM
                          >> *To:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          >> *Subject:* Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly [1 Attachment]
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> *[Attachment(s) <#m_-1600875772204863269_TopText> from James Exler
                          >> included below]*
                          >>
                          >> Lee,
                          >>
                          >> Attached is a document on testing solenoids.
                          >>
                          >> Jim
                          >>
                          >> On 3/26/2019 10:26 AM, 'Lee Pedigo' lped@... [Safarifriends]
                          >> wrote:
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Jim,
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> By power terminals I assume you mean the load terminals (the two big
                          >> ones)
                          >> that carry the high amp current to the motors windings… the two big ones
                          >> on
                          >> the side. If so, then I do have a significant voltage across those two
                          >> when not energized. Once it showed 12 volts after getting a good contact
                          >> with the multi-meter. My solenoid has only three terminals (I guess the
                          >> coils are grounded through the solenoid’s frame).
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Is this a bad solenoid?
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Thanks,
                          >>
                          >> Lee
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> *From:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [
                          >> mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>]
                          >> *Sent:* Tuesday, March 26, 2019 9:12 AM
                          >> *To:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
                          >> *Subject:* Re: [Safarifriends] RVA Jacks Extending Slowly
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Lee,
                          >>
                          >> In addition to Brett's advice, the next thing is likely the solenoid on
                          >> the jack pump motor. It handles the high amperage drawn by the motor and
                          >> the contact surfaces inside could be pitted and causing a higher than
                          >> normal resistance.
                          >>
                          >> Connect a voltmeter across the power terminals of the solenoid and if you
                          >> read voltage, it will indicate contact resistance.
                          >>
                          >> Jim Exler, Nampa, ID
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> On 3/26/2019 7:27 AM, tleepedigo@... [Safarifriends] wrote:
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> My RVA jacks have been (over the last week) extending very slowly and
                          >> getting slower each time I use them. The pump motor sounds like the
                          >> batteries are almost dead, but batteries are good and strong. Everything
                          >> else works well.. I have not gotten under it yet to check fluid, etc...
                          >> The pump will spin pretty well until a jack hits the ground, but then
                          >> will
                          >> slow down steadily until it almost stops spinning (from the sound of it,
                          >> anyway). It will no longer lift the frame up off the axles.
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Any ideas? I've checked all the RVA stuff I have and looked throughout
                          >> this forum, but can't find anything about extending slowly. Lots about
                          >> retracting slowly, but mine seem to retract just fine. Maybe a
                          >> loose/worn
                          >> wire somewhere that increases the resistance as it warms up?
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> Thanks,
                          >>
                          >> Lee
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> '93 Continental 40'
                          >>
                          >> 300 Cummins -- 6spd
                          >>
                          >> Oshkosh Chassis
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >> [image: Image removed by sender.]
                          >> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
                          >>
                          >> Virus-free. www.avg..com
                          >> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >>
                          >
                          >
                          > --
                          > *Gary Smith*
                          >
                          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41274 From: akelphman Date: 4/8/2019
                          Subject: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks

                          hello all.


                          my apologies for posting this question as I believe it has been answered previously.  I seem to be having trouble finding the previous posts.   I assume that is mostly operator error.   my experience with yahoo groups is limited to my experience with this group.   I can't even seem to locate my own posts succesfully.


                          I was reading a different post today and noticed that john (username is TD) posted that Koni shocks are the best for the torstalic suspension.   I am actually taking my coach in today to have the brakes and the shocks replaced.   here is the specifics on my coach


                          1998 safari sarangeti 37ft with kitchen/ livingroom slide

                          magnum M-line chassis with velvet ride suspension

                          44k miles


                          in the post that I read from John he said to get the following shocks but the owner in that post had a 1998 safari sahara.   not sure if the shocks would be the same or not.   hoping to find out.



                          I just purchased my coach about a month ago and been doing lots of little repair projects before we take it out.  when I drove it across down it porposed and bounced alot.   I believe the shocks that are in it are orginal. 


                           I am replacing the rear brake pads because the wheel seals failed and oil soaked the pads.   any insight on finding the correct brake pads would be welcome as well.  


                          dalton

                          anchorage ak

                          1998 safari sarangeti 37'

                          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41276 From: trekker01@gmail.com Date: 4/8/2019
                          Subject: Re: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks
                          Same shocks on all the Magnum chassis from 1995 through SMC demise in 2002.  The Koni numbers cited are what you want.  The shop will probably tell you those are the wrong ones.  Insist on these numbers, not what Koni chart says.  Order them by the number, not the application.

                          Gary
                          '98 Sahara 3006 300CAT
                          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41277 From: TD Date: 4/8/2019
                          Subject: Re: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks
                          Dalton,

                          Yes, those numbers are correct, BUT, if you want a smoother order the
                          rear shocks as 88-1458SP1 instead of the 88-1458SP2
                          The shocks are the same, but the valving is a bit different that makes
                          the 1458SP1 smoother.

                          Front: 88-1641SP3

                          Rear: 88-1458SP1

                          The brake pad numbers are: NAPA part # UP-7149-M (D236 - this is the
                          common number so you can get them at any parts store).

                          John
                          '95 Safari Serengeti 38ft, Cummins C8.3-300, Allison
                          6spd.

                          On 4/8/19, akelphman@... [Safarifriends]
                          <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
                          > hello all.
                          >
                          >
                          > my apologies for posting this question as I believe it has been answered
                          > previously. I seem to be having trouble finding the previous posts. I
                          > assume that is mostly operator error. my experience with yahoo groups is
                          > limited to my experience with this group. I can't even seem to locate my
                          > own posts succesfully.
                          >
                          >
                          > I was reading a different post today and noticed that john (username is TD)
                          > posted that Koni shocks are the best for the torstalic suspension. I am
                          > actually taking my coach in today to have the brakes and the shocks
                          > replaced. here is the specifics on my coach
                          >
                          >
                          > 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft with kitchen/ livingroom slide
                          > magnum M-line chassis with velvet ride suspension
                          > 44k miles
                          >
                          >
                          > in the post that I read from John he said to get the following shocks but
                          > the owner in that post had a 1998 safari sahara. not sure if the shocks
                          > would be the same or not. hoping to find out.
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > Front: 881641SP3
                          > Make sure you order by part number not by the make of your coach, otherwise
                          > you will get the less effective shock, that won't do a good job
                          >
                          > Rear: 881458SP2
                          >
                          >
                          > LTB Autosports has the best prices and free shipping to boot.
                          >
                          >
                          > Here is the link:
                          >
                          >
                          > Front shocks:
                          > http://www.ltbautosports.com/koni-rv-/country-coach/881641sp3/i-2440360.aspx
                          > http://www.ltbautosports.com/koni-rv-/country-coach/881641sp3/i-2440360.aspx
                          >
                          >
                          > Rear shocks:
                          > http://www.ltbautosports.com/koni-rv-/safari/881458sp2/i-2440564.aspx
                          > http://www.ltbautosports.com/koni-rv-/safari/881458sp2/i-2440564.aspx
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          > I just purchased my coach about a month ago and been doing lots of little
                          > repair projects before we take it out. when I drove it across down it
                          > porposed and bounced alot. I believe the shocks that are in it are
                          > orginal.
                          >
                          >
                          > I am replacing the rear brake pads because the wheel seals failed and oil
                          > soaked the pads. any insight on finding the correct brake pads would be
                          > welcome as well.
                          >
                          >
                          > dalton
                          > anchorage ak
                          > 1998 safari sarangeti 37'
                          >
                          Group: Safarifriends Message: 41286 From: wolfe102001 Date: 4/8/2019
                          Subject: Re: 1998 safari sarangeti 37ft new shocks
                          Be sure to also have them check RIDE HEIGHT. Have seen some where ride height was low enough that shocks are crushed on compression (they were never designed to take the full weight of a coach when hitting a large bump).

                          Files section has good info on checking this.