Messages in Safarifriends group. Page 9 of 23.

Group: Safarifriends Message: 19246 From: nanandpete@q.com Date: 11/2/2012
Subject: Re: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19249 From: stuplich@ymail.com Date: 11/2/2012
Subject: Re: My observation/opinion (was: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19253 From: safaritrekker Date: 11/2/2012
Subject: Re: My observation/opinion (was: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19257 From: kenwildman45810 Date: 11/3/2012
Subject: Re: My observation/opinion (was: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19276 From: beowolf_2012 Date: 11/4/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19277 From: TheMopedWhiz Date: 11/4/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19285 From: jquade_fwb Date: 11/5/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19286 From: jimlyndabrooks Date: 11/5/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19290 From: Bubba Date: 11/6/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19628 From: michael_clogher Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Koni shock adjustments
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19630 From: Dick Missett Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Re: Koni shock adjustments
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19631 From: Dick Missett Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Re: Koni shock adjustments
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19632 From: michael_clogher Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Re: Koni shock adjustments
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19666 From: Gerald Date: 12/4/2012
Subject: Re: Steering Stabilizer opinions
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19830 From: Dick Missett Date: 12/19/2012
Subject: Re: need help identifying this suspension part
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19933 From: scootn2 Date: 1/5/2013
Subject: Re: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20061 From: Mark Date: 1/17/2013
Subject: Has anyone tried shocks other than the OEM Koni shocks?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20062 From: chuck.lewis72 Date: 1/17/2013
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried shocks other than the OEM Koni shocks?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20066 From: Sclevall Date: 1/17/2013
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried shocks other than the OEM Koni shocks?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20108 From: Judy Woodruff Date: 1/29/2013
Subject: Re: irratic wipers
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20262 From: wolfe102001 Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20264 From: Landtamer Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20265 From: wolfe102001 Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20266 From: Landtamer Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: Sway Bar Bushings was 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20858 From: herbhaynes Date: 3/27/2013
Subject: Re: more on the Torsilastic
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21242 From: jquade_fwb Date: 4/24/2013
Subject: Re: Rear Torsilastic Spring Dimensions/Capacities
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21246 From: wolfe102001 Date: 4/24/2013
Subject: Re: Rear Torsilastic Spring Dimensions/Capacities
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21443 From: kohutcorp@bellsouth.net Date: 5/12/2013
Subject: Torsilastic Suspension FYI
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21784 From: Michael Date: 6/12/2013
Subject: Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21790 From: Jim Exler Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21791 From: Dale Maggio Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21792 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21793 From: Michael Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21795 From: billygoof1 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21800 From: dieseldave2003 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21802 From: stuplich@ymail.com Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21804 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21805 From: Dale Maggio Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21817 From: gary_wolfer Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21831 From: billygoof1 Date: 6/14/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21832 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/14/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21839 From: gary_wolfer Date: 6/14/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21923 From: miccol57 Date: 6/21/2013
Subject: hi im a new member and just learning more about 97 safari i rec
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21985 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/27/2013
Subject: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22017 From: mutiger1947 Date: 6/29/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22021 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/29/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22523 From: safaritrekker Date: 8/8/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22524 From: wolfe102001 Date: 8/8/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22815 From: rcpaisley Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22816 From: Josh Addison Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara



Group: Safarifriends Message: 19246 From: nanandpete@q.com Date: 11/2/2012
Subject: Re: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara
I have a '99 sahara, 30'. It has a 500 pound weight under the front, put on at the factory. It is still light on the front end. If the formula 1/3 front, 2/3 rear is correct, it needs about 1000 pounds more! Anyway, mine has velvet ride and is squirrley. I have both steer safe and steering stabilizer. Once you get used to it, no problem. The couch bed is a little short for full size people. I have Bilstein shocks revalved for a stiffer ride. Konis are better I think. Cat will reset the computer for 300 HP which is what mine is. Works great. I pull a 9000 lb boat with no problem. Upgraded hitch, of course. We get 7 to 8 mpg, but I drive 65 mph most of the time and pull a car or the boat. We think it is the best MH ever made, wouldn't trade for anything else.

----- Original Message -----
From: "beowolf_2012" <bolaughlin@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 11:07:24 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara

Thanks to everyone who provided advice, with special thanks to Dan Miller, Mel and "Mr. G."

Please allow me to summarize what I've learned so far from this thread and elsewhere (for the benefit of anyone reading this thread in the future) and ask a few related questions.

I found out that this particular Sahara 3044 is 31.65ft long from bumper to bumper (with no rear ladder).

As far as I know this '96 Sahara has a leaf spring suspension which I believe is called "EliptiRide", so all I should need to do is grease it once a year. The heavier 1996 Magnum Blue Max chassis used on the 1996 Serengeti and Ivory apparently has a suspension called Velvet-Ride. I've also heard the term Torsilactic, but I think it may be the same as Velvet-Ride and I don't think it applies to the Magnum Blue Streak chassis on the Sahara.

It sounds like the short '96 Sahara may or may not be light in front (the '99 is not) but if it is then the solution is fairly easy, keep the liquid tanks full and possibly put extra weight on the front bumper. I saw a thread about putting a receiver/hitch on the front and now I'm thinking that putting a scooter/motorcycle carrier on the front might be another option to add weight to the front, are there any issues with that other than not blocking the headlights (which may need a mod to get more voltage)?

If handling is a problem, be sure to weigh all four corners then set tire pressure from the tire manufacturer's chart. Shock upgrades and a steering stabilizer can be a significant improvement but are not necessary. Koni shocks have been mentioned specifically, how do they compare to Bilsteins? It sounds like a steering stabilizer may be a worth the investment, I've heard the names Roadmaster, Safety Steer, Steer Safe mentioned, are they all fairly similar?

The short "30ft" coach is sufficient for one or two people and is easy to maneuver and park though outside storage is more limited than on a longer coach (especially with the mid entry?). Several people recommended considering the longer coaches as well and the 34-36ft coaches are fairly easy to find parking space for as well. Guest sleeping space is more limited than a class C (which is probably true of most class A's and I don't think there are enough passenger rated seats anyway).

I've heard that overall driver comfort/driver experience in a diesel pusher is better than a front gas engine coach. The ride in a diesel pusher is very quiet due to the engine being in the back but the dash heat may only be luke-warm in the winter due to the distance the coolant has to travel (I don't know if this is an issue on the Sahara or if it is less of an issue on the shorter pusher coaches, nor do I know if this also applies to the dash a/c). The engine heat under the bed is apparently great in the winter but in the summer the bedroom may need hours to cool down after driving. For a front door coach the driver's view out the passenger side may be more obstructed than on a mid entry coach that has a big window on the front passenger side.

It sounds like the 250hp Cat 3126 is sufficient for towing uphill but I've heard there is a way to upgrade to get 300hp if it becomes an issue, though I don't know the details or if going to 300hp affects mileage. So far I've heard numbers from 9 to 11 for mileage for the short Safari. I've heard the Cat 3126 has a reputation as a good solid heavy duty engine for a diesel pusher, but is somewhat expensive to maintain because Cat parts are pricy. The radiator needs to be kept clean or it will have overheating problems, relocating the "slobber tube" helps.

There are lots of accessories and modifications available, but none are particularly or urgently necessary. Some that have been mentioned are:
Accessories: VMSpc (solves problems of bad dash gauges), front storage box and push bar, rear horizontal motorcycle carrier
Modifications: Koni shocks, quad shock absorber setup, Trax, steering stabilizer (Roadmaster, Safety Steer, Steer Safe), add weight up front, relocate the air intake box to the side, add air ram scoop, relocate the "slobber tube", 250hp to 300hp upgrade

Thanks again to everyone. It sounds like the short Sahara is a good solid coach.

I have made plans to go inspect the coach and have printed the Used MH Check List from the files area. How do I find a Qualified Service Facility where I can have the chassis components checked?

-Brian (hopefully a Sahara 3044)


--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "beowolf_2012" <bolaughlin@...> wrote:
>
> I am looking into buying a 30ft 1996/7 Safari Sahara (3044).
>
> Are there any common issues with this model, chassis, suspension, engine, transmission, etc. that I should know about?
>
> Does the short length cause any handling issues and are there any common suspension upgrades that are recommended?
>
> I have seen the length of the 3044 quoted as anything from 30.5ft to 32ft, what is the actual length?
>
> I would appreciate any info about any Sahara-specific things that I should be considering or questions that I should be asking.
>
> I have found the '96 specs.jpg, Safari 97 Models.pdf, and Safari98Brochure.pdf in the files section.
>
> Thanks to everyone who replies.
>
> -Brian
> (possibly a Sahara 3044)
>




------------------------------------

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Group: Safarifriends Message: 19249 From: stuplich@ymail.com Date: 11/2/2012
Subject: Re: My observation/opinion (was: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara)
Brian
You seem to understand the 30' Sahara quite well..(it appears that you know about 98% more it than I did about my 35 footer before I bought it). :-)

The following are a few comments. (keep in mind these are my views, thoughts and opinions ..... not necessarily those of other owners).

-- The right front of my 35' is light, I compensate by loading the heaviest cargo in the right front compartment.
(Steveio has fabricated and installed a wheel/tire carrier on the front of his 37' Sarengeti and has hundreds of pounds of tools in that compartment).

-- My shocks are the originals at 128k miles.

-- I have do not have a steering stabilizer.

-- I don't have an issue with the handling, (even in strong cross winds or with passing trucks).

-- Most all coach owners, (whether 30',35',37' or 40'), live by the following motto:

Cocktails for SIX,
Dinner for FOUR,
Sleeps TWO !

-- The dash heat and air can't be counted on to provide all the conditioned air for 1600, plus, cubic feet of cabin..(we are trying to make a house comfortable, not a car).
When traveling in extreme temperatures I run the LP furnace or genset and roof air, as may be required.

-- The 250hp Cat has proven satisfactory for the 101k miles I have traveled, (usually towing a 3000# Saturn ION).

-- I believe the 250hp 3126 Cat can be upgraded to 300hp by a "simple"(?) reprogramming of the Cat ECM.... (I think any Cat service shop can do it).

If anyone is reporting 11 MPG, (with a 3126 Cat of any HP, in a coach of any length), I would doubt ANYTHING they told me about ANYTHING!
IMO, an 11 MPG overall average is simply NOT possible.........
(well, MAYBE on a ALL downhill trip with a tailwind)? LOL
Over the 101k miles I have driven my coach I have AVERAGED 8.5 MPG, overall...(some tanks-full more... some less).

-- I've never had an issue with engine heat in the bedroom.

-- IMO, the two most beneficial mods are the slobber tube and air intake relocation...(most other mods make things more convenient and/or prettier).
Most mods you feel better about your coach, (therefore most are worthwhile).

One final WARNING!
Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!

Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara

Mel
'96 Sahara, 3530
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19253 From: safaritrekker Date: 11/2/2012
Subject: Re: My observation/opinion (was: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara)
Great comments here. I have a 97 3506 w/300 Cat, 89k miles, with leaf springs - love it! Everything said here is true to mine (mpg ~8, dash heater,keep front loaded), although I went with new Bilsteins and a larger front sway bar for handling. Wonderful coaches, well built, well insulated, and fairly easy to work on - they are analog for the most part.

I am curious as to the comments about relocating the air intake? Can someone elaborate on that a little bit. Also, not sure what a "slobber tube" is? Amazingly, my coach doesn't leak a drop of oil or clob the radiator with oil or junk.

Thanks, you will be very happy with your coach. One last piece of advice is to find a repair facility that understands old Safari coaches. They will not only work on yours with pride, but can save #$ in troubleshooting. I use Evergreen RV Supply in North Seattle. Curt

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@..." <stuplich@...> wrote:
>
> Brian
> You seem to understand the 30' Sahara quite well..(it appears that you know about 98% more it than I did about my 35 footer before I bought it). :-)
>
> The following are a few comments. (keep in mind these are my views, thoughts and opinions ..... not necessarily those of other owners).
>
> -- The right front of my 35' is light, I compensate by loading the heaviest cargo in the right front compartment.
> (Steveio has fabricated and installed a wheel/tire carrier on the front of his 37' Sarengeti and has hundreds of pounds of tools in that compartment).
>
> -- My shocks are the originals at 128k miles.
>
> -- I have do not have a steering stabilizer.
>
> -- I don't have an issue with the handling, (even in strong cross winds or with passing trucks).
>
> -- Most all coach owners, (whether 30',35',37' or 40'), live by the following motto:
>
> Cocktails for SIX,
> Dinner for FOUR,
> Sleeps TWO !
>
> -- The dash heat and air can't be counted on to provide all the conditioned air for 1600, plus, cubic feet of cabin..(we are trying to make a house comfortable, not a car).
> When traveling in extreme temperatures I run the LP furnace or genset and roof air, as may be required.
>
> -- The 250hp Cat has proven satisfactory for the 101k miles I have traveled, (usually towing a 3000# Saturn ION).
>
> -- I believe the 250hp 3126 Cat can be upgraded to 300hp by a "simple"(?) reprogramming of the Cat ECM.... (I think any Cat service shop can do it).
>
> If anyone is reporting 11 MPG, (with a 3126 Cat of any HP, in a coach of any length), I would doubt ANYTHING they told me about ANYTHING!
> IMO, an 11 MPG overall average is simply NOT possible.........
> (well, MAYBE on a ALL downhill trip with a tailwind)? LOL
> Over the 101k miles I have driven my coach I have AVERAGED 8.5 MPG, overall...(some tanks-full more... some less).
>
> -- I've never had an issue with engine heat in the bedroom.
>
> -- IMO, the two most beneficial mods are the slobber tube and air intake relocation...(most other mods make things more convenient and/or prettier).
> Most mods you feel better about your coach, (therefore most are worthwhile).
>
> One final WARNING!
> Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!
>
> Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara
>
> Mel
> '96 Sahara, 3530
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19257 From: kenwildman45810 Date: 11/3/2012
Subject: Re: My observation/opinion (was: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara)
A few additional comments to Mel's excellent post.

The previous owner of my coach moved the genset from the left rear to the first bay on the right, photos in the Photos section, and added about 400lbs of "ballast" (steel plates) to the right front frame. Balance is almost perfect. He also added the Blue Ox TruCenter steering modification which helps steering by changing the center point of the system to adjust for road crown, or side-winds.

The biggest issue with going from 250hp to 300hp with the CAT 3126 is that producing more hp also produces more heat. You might need to get into cooling modifications (not cheap). l I have the factory installed 300hp option in my coach and get 8.2mpg, a small decrease from Mel's identical coach with the standard 250hp engine.

The Saharas were the "entry-level" models of the top-line Safari coaches. Well-built, still modern looking, great bargains.

Good luck,

Ken
1996 Safari Sahara- 3530, 35 ft, CAT 300



--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@..." <stuplich@...> wrote:
>
> Brian
> You seem to understand the 30' Sahara quite well..(it appears that you know about 98% more it than I did about my 35 footer before I bought it). :-)
>
> The following are a few comments. (keep in mind these are my views, thoughts and opinions ..... not necessarily those of other owners).
>
> -- The right front of my 35' is light, I compensate by loading the heaviest cargo in the right front compartment.
> (Steveio has fabricated and installed a wheel/tire carrier on the front of his 37' Sarengeti and has hundreds of pounds of tools in that compartment).
>
> -- My shocks are the originals at 128k miles.
>
> -- I have do not have a steering stabilizer.
>
> -- I don't have an issue with the handling, (even in strong cross winds or with passing trucks).
>
> -- Most all coach owners, (whether 30',35',37' or 40'), live by the following motto:
>
> Cocktails for SIX,
> Dinner for FOUR,
> Sleeps TWO !
>
> -- The dash heat and air can't be counted on to provide all the conditioned air for 1600, plus, cubic feet of cabin..(we are trying to make a house comfortable, not a car).
> When traveling in extreme temperatures I run the LP furnace or genset and roof air, as may be required.
>
> -- The 250hp Cat has proven satisfactory for the 101k miles I have traveled, (usually towing a 3000# Saturn ION).
>
> -- I believe the 250hp 3126 Cat can be upgraded to 300hp by a "simple"(?) reprogramming of the Cat ECM.... (I think any Cat service shop can do it).
>
> If anyone is reporting 11 MPG, (with a 3126 Cat of any HP, in a coach of any length), I would doubt ANYTHING they told me about ANYTHING!
> IMO, an 11 MPG overall average is simply NOT possible.........
> (well, MAYBE on a ALL downhill trip with a tailwind)? LOL
> Over the 101k miles I have driven my coach I have AVERAGED 8.5 MPG, overall...(some tanks-full more... some less).
>
> -- I've never had an issue with engine heat in the bedroom.
>
> -- IMO, the two most beneficial mods are the slobber tube and air intake relocation...(most other mods make things more convenient and/or prettier).
> Most mods you feel better about your coach, (therefore most are worthwhile).
>
> One final WARNING!
> Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!
>
> Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara
>
> Mel
> '96 Sahara, 3530
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19276 From: beowolf_2012 Date: 11/4/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Does anybody know of any good repair/service facilities near Phoenix, AZ that are familiar with Safari coaches?

The Used MH Check List from the files area (and several other sources I've seen) recommend taking a used coach to a Qualified Service Facility to have the chassis components checked (engine, transmission, radiator, suspension, shocks, brakes, exhaust, etc.). How does one go about finding a good Service Facility that understands Safari coaches?

In addition to finding a good place to do a chassis component inspection, I'm concerned that the dash a/c isn't currently working (and possibly hasn't been working for a few years). I'd prefer to see that fixed before I look at the coach because I'm worried about how much it could potentially end up costing. I've read a thread about it taking $3k to fix (fabricate a new) dash a/c on an old Safari Trek, and another thread by owners who have had their dash a/c 'fixed' at least twice (the first time a simple re-charge, the second time a new compressor) only to have it fail again within days each time. Does anyone have any tips on how much it can cost to fix the dash a/c on a 1996 Safari Sahara?

If I got the details right, the seller of the Sahara 3044 I am going to look at has said that the fuel gauge always reads full when the engine is on (but reads correct when the engine is turned off) and that the temperature and oil pressure gauges on the dash sometimes act up but the corresponding gauges on the engine itself read accurately. It sounds like that could be a bad ground somewhere. I expect a 16 year old coach to have a few issues like that, I'm hoping it is nothing serious. It seems like just getting SilverLeaf VMSpc is the easiest solution but I haven't researched VMSpc yet so I don't know much about it.

Again, any tips on how to find a good service facility near Phoenix, AZ would be appreciated.

-Brian

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "safaritrekker" <cjhammond@...> wrote:
>
...
>
> Thanks, you will be very happy with your coach. One last piece of advice is to find a repair facility that understands old Safari coaches. They will not only work on yours with pride, but can save #$ in troubleshooting. I use Evergreen RV Supply in North Seattle. Curt
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@" <stuplich@> wrote:
> >
...
> >
> > One final WARNING!
> > Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!
> >
> > Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara
> >
> > Mel
> > '96 Sahara, 3530
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19277 From: TheMopedWhiz Date: 11/4/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
look for arizona diesel

i believe they have one in or near Phoenix
we had ours rebuilt at the one in flagstaff
excellent work, fair pricing


--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "beowolf_2012" <bolaughlin@...> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know of any good repair/service facilities near Phoenix, AZ that are familiar with Safari coaches?
>
> The Used MH Check List from the files area (and several other sources I've seen) recommend taking a used coach to a Qualified Service Facility to have the chassis components checked (engine, transmission, radiator, suspension, shocks, brakes, exhaust, etc.). How does one go about finding a good Service Facility that understands Safari coaches?
>
> In addition to finding a good place to do a chassis component inspection, I'm concerned that the dash a/c isn't currently working (and possibly hasn't been working for a few years). I'd prefer to see that fixed before I look at the coach because I'm worried about how much it could potentially end up costing. I've read a thread about it taking $3k to fix (fabricate a new) dash a/c on an old Safari Trek, and another thread by owners who have had their dash a/c 'fixed' at least twice (the first time a simple re-charge, the second time a new compressor) only to have it fail again within days each time. Does anyone have any tips on how much it can cost to fix the dash a/c on a 1996 Safari Sahara?
>
> If I got the details right, the seller of the Sahara 3044 I am going to look at has said that the fuel gauge always reads full when the engine is on (but reads correct when the engine is turned off) and that the temperature and oil pressure gauges on the dash sometimes act up but the corresponding gauges on the engine itself read accurately. It sounds like that could be a bad ground somewhere. I expect a 16 year old coach to have a few issues like that, I'm hoping it is nothing serious. It seems like just getting SilverLeaf VMSpc is the easiest solution but I haven't researched VMSpc yet so I don't know much about it.
>
> Again, any tips on how to find a good service facility near Phoenix, AZ would be appreciated.
>
> -Brian
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "safaritrekker" <cjhammond@> wrote:
> >
> ...
> >
> > Thanks, you will be very happy with your coach. One last piece of advice is to find a repair facility that understands old Safari coaches. They will not only work on yours with pride, but can save #$ in troubleshooting. I use Evergreen RV Supply in North Seattle. Curt
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@" <stuplich@> wrote:
> > >
> ...
> > >
> > > One final WARNING!
> > > Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!
> > >
> > > Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara
> > >
> > > Mel
> > > '96 Sahara, 3530
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19285 From: jquade_fwb Date: 11/5/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Yah might try -- http://www.rvservicereviews.com/

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "beowolf_2012" <bolaughlin@...> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know of any good repair/service facilities near Phoenix, AZ that are familiar with Safari coaches?
>
> The Used MH Check List from the files area (and several other sources I've seen) recommend taking a used coach to a Qualified Service Facility to have the chassis components checked (engine, transmission, radiator, suspension, shocks, brakes, exhaust, etc.). How does one go about finding a good Service Facility that understands Safari coaches?
>
> In addition to finding a good place to do a chassis component inspection, I'm concerned that the dash a/c isn't currently working (and possibly hasn't been working for a few years). I'd prefer to see that fixed before I look at the coach because I'm worried about how much it could potentially end up costing. I've read a thread about it taking $3k to fix (fabricate a new) dash a/c on an old Safari Trek, and another thread by owners who have had their dash a/c 'fixed' at least twice (the first time a simple re-charge, the second time a new compressor) only to have it fail again within days each time. Does anyone have any tips on how much it can cost to fix the dash a/c on a 1996 Safari Sahara?
>
> If I got the details right, the seller of the Sahara 3044 I am going to look at has said that the fuel gauge always reads full when the engine is on (but reads correct when the engine is turned off) and that the temperature and oil pressure gauges on the dash sometimes act up but the corresponding gauges on the engine itself read accurately. It sounds like that could be a bad ground somewhere. I expect a 16 year old coach to have a few issues like that, I'm hoping it is nothing serious. It seems like just getting SilverLeaf VMSpc is the easiest solution but I haven't researched VMSpc yet so I don't know much about it.
>
> Again, any tips on how to find a good service facility near Phoenix, AZ would be appreciated.
>
> -Brian
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "safaritrekker" <cjhammond@> wrote:
> >
> ...
> >
> > Thanks, you will be very happy with your coach. One last piece of advice is to find a repair facility that understands old Safari coaches. They will not only work on yours with pride, but can save #$ in troubleshooting. I use Evergreen RV Supply in North Seattle. Curt
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@" <stuplich@> wrote:
> > >
> ...
> > >
> > > One final WARNING!
> > > Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!
> > >
> > > Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara
> > >
> > > Mel
> > > '96 Sahara, 3530
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19286 From: jimlyndabrooks Date: 11/5/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Brian, On the A/C, you could have something as simple as a bad expansion valve, or a bad compressor, that has pumped metal thru the entire system. Figure $3,000+ on the bad side at least. I had a dryer fail, stopped up the expansion valve. Was a $500 problem. It will just be a dice roll as to the cost to fix.

OR, you can run the gen set and roof air a bunch for $3,000 worth of LP.

As for chassis work, you might look for a old Workhorse Chassis repair station. They can look at stuff under it.

Probably the most important thing on the chassis is past maintenance. Has the fluids been changed, engine oil, filters, antifreeze, transmission fluid, and very important, Brake Fluid. See what color it is. It should be a light oil color. If it is black figure it might be $500+ getting the fluid flushed and calipers blown out, brake caliper saddles lubed.

IF the owner has no maintenance receipts, I'd probably pass on it. IF you are still a go on it, but no receipts, get a fluid sample from the engine, transmission, and radiator and send in to Black Stone Labs. http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ They will send you the sample kits for free, just send back to them and they can tell you if the fluids have anything in them that are a problem area.

Fuel Gauge, Not buying it reads right when off. It has a 90 gal tank, figure 7 mpg, fill up every 400 miles, that will give you a 200+ mile reserve.

Dash gauges, you can swap locations with gauges and go from there. Datcom made the gauges for Safari in '96 so senders are easy to get.

The chassis is springs, again, has it been lubed regularly? If not, you might have to pull zerks and clean out lube ports which can be a big PITA.

Look under it your self. Is everything just old looking or is there a lot of rust?

It is a 16-17 year old rig, remember you are buying yourself a hobby and trust me, things will break. IF you are handy and can fix stuff you will be fine, if you have to have everything done by $100 a hour tech's............that will get old fast.

Jim,
'96 Sahara 3540, 300 CAT

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "beowolf_2012" <bolaughlin@...> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know of any good repair/service facilities near Phoenix, AZ that are familiar with Safari coaches?
>
> The Used MH Check List from the files area (and several other sources I've seen) recommend taking a used coach to a Qualified Service Facility to have the chassis components checked (engine, transmission, radiator, suspension, shocks, brakes, exhaust, etc.). How does one go about finding a good Service Facility that understands Safari coaches?
>
> In addition to finding a good place to do a chassis component inspection, I'm concerned that the dash a/c isn't currently working (and possibly hasn't been working for a few years). I'd prefer to see that fixed before I look at the coach because I'm worried about how much it could potentially end up costing. I've read a thread about it taking $3k to fix (fabricate a new) dash a/c on an old Safari Trek, and another thread by owners who have had their dash a/c 'fixed' at least twice (the first time a simple re-charge, the second time a new compressor) only to have it fail again within days each time. Does anyone have any tips on how much it can cost to fix the dash a/c on a 1996 Safari Sahara?
>
> If I got the details right, the seller of the Sahara 3044 I am going to look at has said that the fuel gauge always reads full when the engine is on (but reads correct when the engine is turned off) and that the temperature and oil pressure gauges on the dash sometimes act up but the corresponding gauges on the engine itself read accurately. It sounds like that could be a bad ground somewhere. I expect a 16 year old coach to have a few issues like that, I'm hoping it is nothing serious. It seems like just getting SilverLeaf VMSpc is the easiest solution but I haven't researched VMSpc yet so I don't know much about it.
>
> Again, any tips on how to find a good service facility near Phoenix, AZ would be appreciated.
>
> -Brian
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "safaritrekker" <cjhammond@> wrote:
> >
> ...
> >
> > Thanks, you will be very happy with your coach. One last piece of advice is to find a repair facility that understands old Safari coaches. They will not only work on yours with pride, but can save #$ in troubleshooting. I use Evergreen RV Supply in North Seattle. Curt
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@" <stuplich@> wrote:
> > >
> ...
> > >
> > > One final WARNING!
> > > Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!
> > >
> > > Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara
> > >
> > > Mel
> > > '96 Sahara, 3530
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19290 From: Bubba Date: 11/6/2012
Subject: Re: Finding a good Service Facility (was: Buying advice for a 30ft S
Look up "Western States Truck Center".
They have a shop in Tucson and I believe in Phoenix also.
I have used them on chassis/running gear in Tucson, Yuma, Portland, OR and Missoula, MT and like them.
They cannot help you with the "coach" part of the rig though.
Hope this helps,

-------------------------------------------------------------------

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "beowolf_2012" <bolaughlin@...> wrote:
>
> Does anybody know of any good repair/service facilities near Phoenix, AZ that are familiar with Safari coaches?
>
> The Used MH Check List from the files area (and several other sources I've seen) recommend taking a used coach to a Qualified Service Facility to have the chassis components checked (engine, transmission, radiator, suspension, shocks, brakes, exhaust, etc.). How does one go about finding a good Service Facility that understands Safari coaches?
>
> In addition to finding a good place to do a chassis component inspection, I'm concerned that the dash a/c isn't currently working (and possibly hasn't been working for a few years). I'd prefer to see that fixed before I look at the coach because I'm worried about how much it could potentially end up costing. I've read a thread about it taking $3k to fix (fabricate a new) dash a/c on an old Safari Trek, and another thread by owners who have had their dash a/c 'fixed' at least twice (the first time a simple re-charge, the second time a new compressor) only to have it fail again within days each time. Does anyone have any tips on how much it can cost to fix the dash a/c on a 1996 Safari Sahara?
>
> If I got the details right, the seller of the Sahara 3044 I am going to look at has said that the fuel gauge always reads full when the engine is on (but reads correct when the engine is turned off) and that the temperature and oil pressure gauges on the dash sometimes act up but the corresponding gauges on the engine itself read accurately. It sounds like that could be a bad ground somewhere. I expect a 16 year old coach to have a few issues like that, I'm hoping it is nothing serious. It seems like just getting SilverLeaf VMSpc is the easiest solution but I haven't researched VMSpc yet so I don't know much about it.
>
> Again, any tips on how to find a good service facility near Phoenix, AZ would be appreciated.
>
> -Brian
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "safaritrekker" <cjhammond@> wrote:
> >
> ...
> >
> > Thanks, you will be very happy with your coach. One last piece of advice is to find a repair facility that understands old Safari coaches. They will not only work on yours with pride, but can save #$ in troubleshooting. I use Evergreen RV Supply in North Seattle. Curt
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@" <stuplich@> wrote:
> > >
> ...
> > >
> > > One final WARNING!
> > > Always expect EVERYTHING, (not just Cat parts... ALL parts, and ALL service and accessories), to cost much more than you think possible....... (you will seldom be wrong)!
> > >
> > > Good luck with your purchase of the 30' Sahara
> > >
> > > Mel
> > > '96 Sahara, 3530
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19628 From: michael_clogher Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Koni shock adjustments
I am putting front and rear Koni shocks on my 1997 40ft Serengeti today. I cant find the post where I saw what to set them at. I have them sitting here ready to bolt on right now, so anyone that can help me ASAP will be myhero! :-)
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19630 From: Dick Missett Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Re: Koni shock adjustments
Mike- I copied this information from a previous post.
 
Front: run shock all the way and then back 1/2-3/4 turn
Rear: run all the way and then back 1/2 turn.
 
Dick Missett
98 Sahara 300 CAT
Wyoming, PA


From: michael_clogher <clogheriv@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 11:09 AM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Koni shock adjustments
 
I am putting front and rear Koni shocks on my 1997 40ft Serengeti today. I cant find the post where I saw what to set them at. I have them sitting here ready to bolt on right now, so anyone that can help me ASAP will be myhero! :-)

Group: Safarifriends Message: 19631 From: Dick Missett Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Re: Koni shock adjustments
These are the posts you are probably looking for
From: michael_clogher <clogheriv@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 11:09 AM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Koni shock adjustments
 
I am putting front and rear Koni shocks on my 1997 40ft Serengeti today. I cant find the post where I saw what to set them at. I have them sitting here ready to bolt on right now, so anyone that can help me ASAP will be myhero! :-)

Group: Safarifriends Message: 19632 From: michael_clogher Date: 12/1/2012
Subject: Re: Koni shock adjustments
Awesome! Thanks!!!!

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Dick Missett <dngmissett@...> wrote:
>
> Mike- I copied this information from a previous post.
>  
> Front: run shock all the way and then back 1/2-3/4 turn
> Rear: run all the way and then back 1/2 turn.
>  
> Dick Missett
> 98 Sahara 300 CAT
> Wyoming, PA
>
>
> ________________________________
> From: michael_clogher <clogheriv@...>
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 11:09 AM
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Koni shock adjustments
>
>  
> I am putting front and rear Koni shocks on my 1997 40ft Serengeti today. I cant find the post where I saw what to set them at. I have them sitting here ready to bolt on right now, so anyone that can help me ASAP will be myhero! :-)
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19666 From: Gerald Date: 12/4/2012
Subject: Re: Steering Stabilizer opinions
I bought my 1997 30 foot Sahara in 2003 and any driving over 65 mph or semi trucks passing me was enough to cause me to fear for my life. I began a 5 year mission to fix the steering/handling of my leaf spring chassis. I replaced the shocks. Replaced and tightened the sway bar bushings (front and rear) including increasing the the size of bolts on the front sway bar (after one broke). I added a custom air activated steer-safe system. I replaced the original tires with ones that are over an inch wider. Had a front end alignment. Started traveling with extra fresh water that put weight on the front end. I added an aluminum box on the front of the rig for heavy items to put weight in front of the axle. I even added individually controlled air bags that stiffened the frame. These changes improved the handling but I was still subject to large trucks or high side winds that would push and pull me around. Finally I realized that I had to stop the YAW motion of the coach. I have now added custom chassis to house frame supports both sideways, and front to rear that has finally given me the control Ive wanted. I got the idea when I saw the systems that are made for gas rigs (Davis tru-track steering stabilizer). You can look it up on the internet.
Heavier rigs with longer wheelbases don't have this serious a problem. However, even with my short wheel base I now enjoy driving my rig and get good handling even at 70 mph. (I usually drive 65 mph on interstates but can drive safely faster if I need to pass traffic).
I listed this for anyone who is having serious steering problems and has already made certain that the steering components are not in need of repair and is willing put in the time and money to make driving their coach safer and more enjoyable.
Gerry

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, nanandpete@... wrote:
>
> Just read this post , the one from Dick Missett and the ride height adjustment on Yahoo. My 1999 30' Sahara has the 500# weight in the front, steer safe, and hydraulic stabilizer. Still wanders. I am going to check the steering U joints and go from Bilsteins to Konis, I guess this is the last option.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jimlyndabrooks" <jimlyndabrooks@...>
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Saturday, December 1, 2012 10:02:43 AM
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: Steering Stabilizer opinions
>
> Hello,
>
> When we got our '96 Sahara in '06, it wandered around like I was pushing a pencil on a table top. This was in Houston. On the way to Oregon, by way of New Mexico, I stopped by the Safe Steer place, and after talking with them, decided I needed to buy their product. Drive it to Oregon and if you don't like it, ship it back and we'll refund your money. OK, I had them give me a box.
>
> After driving it('96 Sahara 3540)to Oregon I had decided it was better, but it was just covering up a problem, not correcting it, so, I crawled under it and removed the Steer Safe System. I found the problem of it wandering around while under it.
>
> The steering shaft that is attached to the steering wheel is attached to the sector box by a coupling with 2 u-joints. There are pinch bolts on either end of the u-joint coupler. You could turn the bolts with your fingers. I put a pair of vice grips on the steering shaft and could turn it but the input shaft to the sector box did not turn.
>
> I tightened the 2 pinch bolts, and with the Safe Steer removed, I took it for a drive. The steering was as tight as my Honda CRV. No slop, no looseness, it drove like a different coach.
>
> Now after 6 years of ownership, it is still drives great. I check the pinch bolts every fall, when I am under it greasing the chassis.
>
> Jim
> '96 Sahara 3540, 300 CAT, 520W Solar
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Dick Missett <dngmissett@> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks to all who have responded and offered input on this thread. Although the reviews and input for the spring style Steer Safe have been just as positive as the hydraulic style stabilizer I have decided to go with the Safe T Plus hydraulic style. It should be here early next week. 
> >
> >
> > Dick Missett
> > 98 Sahara 300 CAT
> > Wyoming, PA
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Dick <dngmissett@>
> > To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> > Sent: Monday, November 26, 2012 7:06 PM
> > Subject: [Safarifriends] Steering Stabilizer opinions
> >
> >  
> > Looking for opinions and feedback from those that have installed either the Steer Safe (spring style) or the hydraulic style Safe T Plus steering stabilizer on their coach. I want to install one before I head to FL right after the 1st of the year with the expectation that it will minimize some of the white knuckle driving that I experienced in the high winds between GA & VA on the way north last March. I'm leaning towards the Steer Safe which appears to be less of a challenge to adjust but appreciate any opinions / input.
> >
> > Dick Missett
> > 98 Safari 300 CAT
> > Wyoming, PA
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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>
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>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19830 From: Dick Missett Date: 12/19/2012
Subject: Re: need help identifying this suspension part
There is movement  at the attachment points of the rod at the turnbuckles / grease fittings when the wheels are turned.  Noticed  this yesterday while installing and calibrating the adjustment on a Safe T Plus steering stabilizer and some Koni shocks. Turns out this is referred to as Front Radius Rod which is item (8) on the M -series "Blue Max" lubrication points chart . (Thanks to Jim Exler for the info). 
  
Dick Missett
98 Sahara 300 CAT
Velvet Ride Suspension 
From: Slemnah <slemnah@...>
To: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Cc: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2012 7:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] need help identifying this suspension part
 
It's called a pannard rod (I may not be spelling it correctly). It is there to keep the axle in alignment with the frame. Where is it loose? At the turnbuckles?
Sent from my iPad
On Dec 18, 2012, at 9:42 PM, Dick Missett <dngmissett@...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me what the bar with the grease fittings is called ?  There are turnbuckle style adjustments on each end It appears to tie the frame into the front I beam. I tried to identify it on the chassis lube chart but it does not appear to be there or am looking at the wrong  chassis chart ? I have a Velvet Ride suspension
and I'm using the M series "Blue Max" lube points chart. This bar is loose  and I want to find out exactly what its called and also where I might be able to find a replacement ?  Appreciate any and all input.
 
 
 
 
Dick Missett
98 Sahara 300 CAT
Wyoming, PA
 
 
<photo.JPG> Sent from my iPhone
Group: Safarifriends Message: 19933 From: scootn2 Date: 1/5/2013
Subject: Re: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara
Brian,
I realize this post is several months old but wondered if you ever did purchase the 30 foot 1996 Sahara? That is the exact same model we have as well - we're the 2nd owners since 2007 (we put the hitch on the front that we use for carrying wood or one of our scooters). Just thought I'd try and touch base.
Thanks,
Kelli

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, nanandpete@... wrote:
>
> I have a '99 sahara, 30'. It has a 500 pound weight under the front, put on at the factory. It is still light on the front end. If the formula 1/3 front, 2/3 rear is correct, it needs about 1000 pounds more! Anyway, mine has velvet ride and is squirrley. I have both steer safe and steering stabilizer. Once you get used to it, no problem. The couch bed is a little short for full size people. I have Bilstein shocks revalved for a stiffer ride. Konis are better I think. Cat will reset the computer for 300 HP which is what mine is. Works great. I pull a 9000 lb boat with no problem. Upgraded hitch, of course. We get 7 to 8 mpg, but I drive 65 mph most of the time and pull a car or the boat. We think it is the best MH ever made, wouldn't trade for anything else.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "beowolf_2012"
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 11:07:24 PM
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: Buying advice for a 30ft Sahara
>
> Thanks to everyone who provided advice, with special thanks to Dan Miller, Mel and "Mr. G."
>
> Please allow me to summarize what I've learned so far from this thread and elsewhere (for the benefit of anyone reading this thread in the future) and ask a few related questions.
>
> I found out that this particular Sahara 3044 is 31.65ft long from bumper to bumper (with no rear ladder).
>
> As far as I know this '96 Sahara has a leaf spring suspension which I believe is called "EliptiRide", so all I should need to do is grease it once a year. The heavier 1996 Magnum Blue Max chassis used on the 1996 Serengeti and Ivory apparently has a suspension called Velvet-Ride. I've also heard the term Torsilactic, but I think it may be the same as Velvet-Ride and I don't think it applies to the Magnum Blue Streak chassis on the Sahara.
>
> It sounds like the short '96 Sahara may or may not be light in front (the '99 is not) but if it is then the solution is fairly easy, keep the liquid tanks full and possibly put extra weight on the front bumper. I saw a thread about putting a receiver/hitch on the front and now I'm thinking that putting a scooter/motorcycle carrier on the front might be another option to add weight to the front, are there any issues with that other than not blocking the headlights (which may need a mod to get more voltage)?
>
> If handling is a problem, be sure to weigh all four corners then set tire pressure from the tire manufacturer's chart. Shock upgrades and a steering stabilizer can be a significant improvement but are not necessary. Koni shocks have been mentioned specifically, how do they compare to Bilsteins? It sounds like a steering stabilizer may be a worth the investment, I've heard the names Roadmaster, Safety Steer, Steer Safe mentioned, are they all fairly similar?
>
> The short "30ft" coach is sufficient for one or two people and is easy to maneuver and park though outside storage is more limited than on a longer coach (especially with the mid entry?). Several people recommended considering the longer coaches as well and the 34-36ft coaches are fairly easy to find parking space for as well. Guest sleeping space is more limited than a class C (which is probably true of most class A's and I don't think there are enough passenger rated seats anyway).
>
> I've heard that overall driver comfort/driver experience in a diesel pusher is better than a front gas engine coach. The ride in a diesel pusher is very quiet due to the engine being in the back but the dash heat may only be luke-warm in the winter due to the distance the coolant has to travel (I don't know if this is an issue on the Sahara or if it is less of an issue on the shorter pusher coaches, nor do I know if this also applies to the dash a/c). The engine heat under the bed is apparently great in the winter but in the summer the bedroom may need hours to cool down after driving. For a front door coach the driver's view out the passenger side may be more obstructed than on a mid entry coach that has a big window on the front passenger side.
>
> It sounds like the 250hp Cat 3126 is sufficient for towing uphill but I've heard there is a way to upgrade to get 300hp if it becomes an issue, though I don't know the details or if going to 300hp affects mileage. So far I've heard numbers from 9 to 11 for mileage for the short Safari. I've heard the Cat 3126 has a reputation as a good solid heavy duty engine for a diesel pusher, but is somewhat expensive to maintain because Cat parts are pricy. The radiator needs to be kept clean or it will have overheating problems, relocating the "slobber tube" helps.
>
> There are lots of accessories and modifications available, but none are particularly or urgently necessary. Some that have been mentioned are:
> Accessories: VMSpc (solves problems of bad dash gauges), front storage box and push bar, rear horizontal motorcycle carrier
> Modifications: Koni shocks, quad shock absorber setup, Trax, steering stabilizer (Roadmaster, Safety Steer, Steer Safe), add weight up front, relocate the air intake box to the side, add air ram scoop, relocate the "slobber tube", 250hp to 300hp upgrade
>
> Thanks again to everyone. It sounds like the short Sahara is a good solid coach.
>
> I have made plans to go inspect the coach and have printed the Used MH Check List from the files area. How do I find a Qualified Service Facility where I can have the chassis components checked?
>
> -Brian (hopefully a Sahara 3044)
>
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "beowolf_2012" wrote:
> >
> > I am looking into buying a 30ft 1996/7 Safari Sahara (3044).
> >
> > Are there any common issues with this model, chassis, suspension, engine, transmission, etc. that I should know about?
> >
> > Does the short length cause any handling issues and are there any common suspension upgrades that are recommended?
> >
> > I have seen the length of the 3044 quoted as anything from 30.5ft to 32ft, what is the actual length?
> >
> > I would appreciate any info about any Sahara-specific things that I should be considering or questions that I should be asking.
> >
> > I have found the '96 specs.jpg, Safari 97 Models.pdf, and Safari98Brochure.pdf in the files section.
> >
> > Thanks to everyone who replies.
> >
> > -Brian
> > (possibly a Sahara 3044)
> >
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> Community email addresses:
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Group: Safarifriends Message: 20061 From: Mark Date: 1/17/2013
Subject: Has anyone tried shocks other than the OEM Koni shocks?
Hi everyone,
I am running a 1995 Safari Serengeti. I have the torsion suspension. Has anyone run any other brand of shocks other than the Koni adjustable's? Monroe makes shocks for my coach and they are significantly less expensive. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20062 From: chuck.lewis72 Date: 1/17/2013
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried shocks other than the OEM Koni shocks?
I had Bilstiens all the way around, not that good either.
Went with quad Koni's on the front, that really helped.
Then put Koni's on the rear......nice!!!!!
1997 Serengeti

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Mark" wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
> I am running a 1995 Safari Serengeti. I have the torsion suspension. Has anyone run any other brand of shocks other than the Koni adjustable's? Monroe makes shocks for my coach and they are significantly less expensive. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20066 From: Sclevall Date: 1/17/2013
Subject: Re: Has anyone tried shocks other than the OEM Koni shocks?

I used Monroe’s and what I can say is you get what you pay for, replaced them with Koni and they are great! JohnC

 

96 Safari Sahara 3540 250 Cat

2005 TJ/Fusion

(O) I I I I I I I (O)

 

 

 

From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 6:12 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Safarifriends] Has anyone tried shocks other than the OEM Koni shocks?

 

 

Hi everyone,
I am running a 1995 Safari Serengeti. I have the torsion suspension. Has anyone run any other brand of shocks other than the Koni adjustable's? Monroe makes shocks for my coach and they are significantly less expensive. Any info would be appreciated, thanks.

Group: Safarifriends Message: 20108 From: Judy Woodruff Date: 1/29/2013
Subject: Re: irratic wipers
Hi Gary,
My husband (Dave) and I have recently (8/12) purchased a 95 Serengeti 38' with 300 Cummings/6 speed Allison/Velvet Ride as well. We are also new to class A RVing (previous pop-up campers). We have not experienced your issues yet but we have not used the cruise control. We are presently remodeling our coach for fulltiming in the future. When we purchased it, we did not get any manuals or paperwork with it. If you have such items, we would love to have a copy of them (at our expense of course). We would gladly pay you for your time and effort/paper/postage.
 
We have pictures of our coach on the website here when we purchased it before the remodel. The previous owner painted it black and placed his company emblem on the front and back (which we will have removed). He pretty much had it in goof working (motor) order when we picked it up in St. Louis. He is a gearhead so that was more his focus. We have replaced the floor with vinyl allure planks (found some water damage and repaired it), removed the 2 jacknife sofas (which were purchased new and are for sale if anyone is intersted) installed 2 new lazyboy recliners, tiled the kitchen backsplash, replaced all the faucets with satin nickel, will replaced the toilet (any suggestions anyone?) , tiled the bathroom and toilet room, removed the shower glass enclosure and replaced it with a neoagnle shower rod,  removed the trash compactor in kitchen and replaced it with a pullout trash can, removed the TV from the front of coach and replaced cabinets with new custom cabinets, TV in the galley is across from the recliners in a custom lift cabinet made from an antique 1800's pine cabinet, new custom cabinet in the bedroom to accomodate flat screen TV,  removed the mirrors from the dining area and bedroom, reinsulated behind the bed and replaced with 3/4" plywood, replaced the ceiling speakers in the front, replaced the ceiling in the front of coach d/t water damage, removed all the vinyl wallpaper (found water damage and repaired them), painted the entire inside of the coach walls, removed all valances and replaced with drapery hardware, made new curtains, installed a new micro/convection oven (old one still works and still have if anyone is interested), adding new pull-out shelves in bathroom closet for storage and to accommodate the cat litter box, we will replace the pilot/co-pilot chairs, new tires, new kony shocks, new fans (x3), resurfaced the roof, still needs alligned and a steering stabilzer (maybe, if needed), generator does not work so that needs attention, and some other minor stuff. WHEW! I would love to replace the fridge with a stainless residential but the size thing is baffling me. Our fridge is across from the cabinet and appears to be a pretty narrow walkway.  Anyone have any suggestions? Anyone replaced their fridge with residential.
 
We are very fortunate that our son, Scott, is a contractor, and has had a slow winter. He has done the majority of the work with us helping him and completing as much as we can. He does custom cabinetry, did the flooring and tile work, plumbing, and whatever else needs to be done. He does and excellent job and we are very pleased with the results. We have encountered all types of issues, got a good look at how the wiring is done, it has been a real adventure that is not completed as of yet. We have taken pictures of everything in process and will post when we are done. But in the meantime, if anyone has any questions, if we can help we would be happy to. We are looking forward to fulltiming and definately being done with this project.
 
Sorry for the length of this post but again...we would gladly answer any questions if anyone has any. We love this site and have gained so much knowledge from it.
 
Dave and Judy Woodruff
95 Serengeti, 38 footer, Cummins/Allison
Central Ohio (London)

From: gary applegarth <kapplegarth@...>
To: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 6:38 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] irratic wipers
 
Hi all, I am a new RVer with a 95 Serengeti 38' with a 300 Cummings.  I have 3 issues with it.  Number one is on my last road trip my wipers started going real fast and stuck on the wipe motion all the way outboard.  When I slowed my RPM down, they would start moving again.  Any ideas?
Also, my cruise control and air horns don't work.
Thanks for any help in these areas and happy trails to all.
garyApplegarth
Wenatchee WA
 
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20262 From: wolfe102001 Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
YES.

Been around motorhomes for a long time, but just bought the Safari Sahara two weeks ago. Sold our Foretravel with 170,000 miles on it. Found this Sahara-- looked long and hard at older, simpler non-slide coaches after deciding we just couldn't downsize as much as we originally planned. We are back home in League City TX and starting to bring it up to 100%.

Many manufacturers are happy we bought it-- just ordered 4 new Koni shocks, new Pacbrake PRXB, new sway bar bushings, etc!

Anyone else have any numbers from the OE fuel cap?

Thanks.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "jimlyndabrooks" <jimlyndabrooks@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Brett? Are you the Brett from the CAT Engine Forum and Foretravel guy.
>
> Welcome.........
>
> Jim
> '96 Sahara 3540, FOR SALE
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > We just bought a 1997 3540.
> >
> > The fuel cap (gas cap) was missing when we bought it-- a ziplock bag and zip tie were in place. At least they kept dirt and water out.
> >
> >
> > Would appreciate any information on the cap:
> >
> > Manufacturer and any part number identification?
> >
> > Vented or unvented?
> >
> > Any other description that would aid in getting an OE replacement.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Brett and Dianne Wolfe
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20264 From: Landtamer Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
On 2/18/2013 5:52 PM, wolfe102001 wrote:
 

YES.

Been around motorhomes for a long time, but just bought the Safari Sahara two weeks ago. Sold our Foretravel with 170,000 miles on it. Found this Sahara-- looked long and hard at older, simpler non-slide coaches after deciding we just couldn't downsize as much as we originally planned. We are back home in League City TX and starting to bring it up to 100%.

Many manufacturers are happy we bought it-- just ordered 4 new Koni shocks, new Pacbrake PRXB, new sway bar bushings, etc!

Anyone else have any numbers from the OE fuel cap?

Thanks.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "jimlyndabrooks" wrote:
>
> Hi Brett? Are you the Brett from the CAT Engine Forum and Foretravel guy.
>
> Welcome.........
>
> Jim
> '96 Sahara 3540, FOR SALE
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" wrote:
> >
> > We just bought a 1997 3540.
> >
> > The fuel cap (gas cap) was missing when we bought it-- a ziplock bag and zip tie were in place. At least they kept dirt and water out.
> >
> >
> > Would appreciate any information on the cap:
> >
> > Manufacturer and any part number identification?
> >
> > Vented or unvented?
> >
> > Any other description that would aid in getting an OE replacement.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Brett and Dianne Wolfe
> >
>

Where did you get your sway bar bushings?  I need to get those also.  What info did you provide? 
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20265 From: wolfe102001 Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
Will post part numbers when they arrive. I sent samples of front and rear end link bushings to Roadmaster to match up.

Brett



--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Landtamer <landtamer@...> wrote:
>
> On 2/18/2013 5:52 PM, wolfe102001 wrote:
> >
> > YES.
> >
> > Been around motorhomes for a long time, but just bought the Safari
> > Sahara two weeks ago. Sold our Foretravel with 170,000 miles on it.
> > Found this Sahara-- looked long and hard at older, simpler non-slide
> > coaches after deciding we just couldn't downsize as much as we
> > originally planned. We are back home in League City TX and starting to
> > bring it up to 100%.
> >
> > Many manufacturers are happy we bought it-- just ordered 4 new Koni
> > shocks, new Pacbrake PRXB, new sway bar bushings, etc!
> >
> > Anyone else have any numbers from the OE fuel cap?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Brett
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Safarifriends%40yahoogroups.com>, "jimlyndabrooks" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Brett? Are you the Brett from the CAT Engine Forum and Foretravel
> > guy.
> > >
> > > Welcome.........
> > >
> > > Jim
> > > '96 Sahara 3540, FOR SALE
> > >
> > > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Safarifriends%40yahoogroups.com>, "wolfe102001" wrote:
> > > >
> > > > We just bought a 1997 3540.
> > > >
> > > > The fuel cap (gas cap) was missing when we bought it-- a ziplock
> > bag and zip tie were in place. At least they kept dirt and water out.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Would appreciate any information on the cap:
> > > >
> > > > Manufacturer and any part number identification?
> > > >
> > > > Vented or unvented?
> > > >
> > > > Any other description that would aid in getting an OE replacement.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks.
> > > >
> > > > Brett and Dianne Wolfe
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> Where did you get your sway bar bushings? I need to get those also.
> What info did you provide?
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 20266 From: Landtamer Date: 2/18/2013
Subject: Re: Sway Bar Bushings was 1997 Sahara "Gas" Cap
Hi Brett, where did you get the sway bar bushings?  I need to replace mine on an earlier model.  What info did you provide them?

Thanks,
Michael



On 2/18/2013 5:52 PM, wolfe102001 wrote:
 

YES.

Been around motorhomes for a long time, but just bought the Safari Sahara two weeks ago. Sold our Foretravel with 170,000 miles on it. Found this Sahara-- looked long and hard at older, simpler non-slide coaches after deciding we just couldn't downsize as much as we originally planned. We are back home in League City TX and starting to bring it up to 100%.

Many manufacturers are happy we bought it-- just ordered 4 new Koni shocks, new Pacbrake PRXB, new sway bar bushings, etc!

Anyone else have any numbers from the OE fuel cap?

Thanks.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "jimlyndabrooks" wrote:
>
> Hi Brett? Are you the Brett from the CAT Engine Forum and Foretravel guy.
>
> Welcome.........
>
> Jim
> '96 Sahara 3540, FOR SALE
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" wrote:
> >
> > We just bought a 1997 3540.
> >
> > The fuel cap (gas cap) was missing when we bought it-- a ziplock bag and zip tie were in place. At least they kept dirt and water out.
> >
> >
> > Would appreciate any information on the cap:
> >
> > Manufacturer and any part number identification?
> >
> > Vented or unvented?
> >
> > Any other description that would aid in getting an OE replacement.
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Brett and Dianne Wolfe
> >
>


Group: Safarifriends Message: 20858 From: herbhaynes Date: 3/27/2013
Subject: Re: more on the Torsilastic
The Koni shocks I installed recently came with the warning that a given shock must allow at least 3 inches of travel in either direction from the vehicle's normal ride height. This means that the length of the shock must be measured with the shock fully compressed and again with it fully extended. When installed and with the vehicle at ride height, the length of the shock will have to be fairly near the mid-point between the shortest and longest possible lengths in order to provide the 3" of travel in either direction. Otherwise the shock might "bottom out" (or conversely "top out") under use and be ruined.
Herb, '96 Beaver Monterey 3403, Reyco AR510 front suspension

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Dale Maggio <dalemaggio@...> wrote:
>
> Well, the 99 Sahara made it to its new home in Santa Cruz, Calif.  Some suspension; it drove like a 50s school bus with shock & spring suspension.  And the LA freeways are terrible.  I never noticed until I drove the Sahara.  Once we hit I5, it smoothed out.
>  
> OK, so I have to adjust ride height.  What IS the ride height and where do I measure it from?  Does a ¼in really make that much difference?
>  
> Also every minor bump caused a major clunk under the driver.  I think that Bilstein is NFG since there are about 2in of shaft sticking up from the top cap.  I've ordered Konis but they didn't have the exact replacement, so I got the next heavier duty model up.
>
> -=Dale=-
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21242 From: jquade_fwb Date: 4/24/2013
Subject: Re: Rear Torsilastic Spring Dimensions/Capacities
Brett - As I understood Ralph Andrews a couple of years back, Ralph said that he sold his inventory of suspension parts to Brazell's RV. Also, Ralph said he had complete confidence in the folks' abilities/knowledge/experience regarding our Safari suspensions. Based upon Ralph's recommendation, I had Brazell's install new Koni shocks and measure my ride height to see if it needed any adjustments (it didn't). My point here, is to recommend you call Brazell's.

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@...> wrote:
>
> Helping a friend with the Torsilastic Suspension.
>
> He needs the rear 19,000 pound capacity springs.
>
> He spoke with Duane at Pioneer Metals yesterday and here is what he e-mailed me: "Duane said he had the 48 3/4 inch springs. He thought all the ones he had were 19,000 lbs. I am not saying he sounded like the most positive guy in the world about it, but that is what he said. Is there something specific that would indicate if they were 19,000 pound capacity?"
>
> Can anyone confirm that the 48 3/4" springs ARE 19,000 pound capacity?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Brett
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21246 From: wolfe102001 Date: 4/24/2013
Subject: Re: Rear Torsilastic Spring Dimensions/Capacities
Thanks. Passed the information along.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "jquade_fwb" <jquade44@...> wrote:
>
> Brett - As I understood Ralph Andrews a couple of years back, Ralph said that he sold his inventory of suspension parts to Brazell's RV. Also, Ralph said he had complete confidence in the folks' abilities/knowledge/experience regarding our Safari suspensions. Based upon Ralph's recommendation, I had Brazell's install new Koni shocks and measure my ride height to see if it needed any adjustments (it didn't). My point here, is to recommend you call Brazell's.
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > Helping a friend with the Torsilastic Suspension.
> >
> > He needs the rear 19,000 pound capacity springs.
> >
> > He spoke with Duane at Pioneer Metals yesterday and here is what he e-mailed me: "Duane said he had the 48 3/4 inch springs. He thought all the ones he had were 19,000 lbs. I am not saying he sounded like the most positive guy in the world about it, but that is what he said. Is there something specific that would indicate if they were 19,000 pound capacity?"
> >
> > Can anyone confirm that the 48 3/4" springs ARE 19,000 pound capacity?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Brett
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21443 From: kohutcorp@bellsouth.net Date: 5/12/2013
Subject: Torsilastic Suspension FYI
My coach has been riding hard and bottoming out for the last few years. Last year the steering got pretty squirrelly especially if I hit a bump. After reading the post in this forum about the Torsilastic Suspension, I decided to measure mine. It was sitting about an inch low. I talked to Ralph Andrews from Pioneer Metal before he passed and Ralph recommended that I take it to JoSam Alignment in Orlando. Last week I took it JoSam and they aligned the coach, raised it about an inch, put new grommets on my Hellwig factory installed sway bars, and put on a pair of Pioneer's Tiger Tracks. (JoSam found a crack on the factory radius bar.) This is the first time that I have had any work done to the suspension, other that new Bilstein shocks about 5 years ago.

JoSam did an outstanding job and I would highly recommend them. We had to order the Tiger Tracks and they took two days to get there and JoSam allowed us to stay in their parking lot to dry camp. After the Tiger Tracks arrived they had us on the road in a couple of hours. They are real professionals and a pleasure to deal with; as was the service from Duane at Pioneer. The coach rides and handles like a dream now.

Mike Kohut, 2000 Sahara 3006 w/weights in the front end, 125K Miles owned since new
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21784 From: Michael Date: 6/12/2013
Subject: Tire pressure (again)
Hi everyone.

Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
Ram pickup.

Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
seat says 80 front, 85 rear.

We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
Virtually nothing in the basement.

What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?

I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
scale.

Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.


Thanks in advance for your valuable input!

--
Michael
1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
49K miles
8.3 Cummins
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21790 From: Jim Exler Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Michael,
 
Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart.  Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
 
When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
 
Jim X Exler
 
 
From: Michael
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
 
 

Hi everyone.

Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
Ram pickup.

Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
seat says 80 front, 85 rear.

We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
Virtually nothing in the basement.

What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?

I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
scale.

Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.

Thanks in advance for your valuable input!

--
Michael
1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
49K miles
8.3 Cummins

Group: Safarifriends Message: 21791 From: Dale Maggio Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
I would agree with Jim, however, I just replaced my front with Michelins and weighed the front axel at 8200lbs.  My tire guy said 120 max, 100 minimum, and probably get the best ride at 110.
 
I suggest, you weight your coach and talk to a truck tire guy.  Go to a truck shop, car tires guys are clueless about big RV tires.

-=Dale=-
99 Sahara 3506

--- On Thu, 6/13/13, Jim Exler <jimxexler@...> wrote:

From: Jim Exler <jimxexler@...>
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, June 13, 2013, 5:22 AM

 
Michael,
 
Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart.  Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
 
When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
 
Jim X Exler
 
 
From: Michael
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
 
 
Hi everyone.

Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
Ram pickup.

Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
seat says 80 front, 85 rear.

We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
Virtually nothing in the basement.

What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?

I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
scale.

Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.

Thanks in advance for your valuable input!

--
Michael
1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
49K miles
8.3 Cummins

Group: Safarifriends Message: 21792 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Yes, get it weighed (individual wheel position weights better than just axle weights as it does not ASSUME perfect left/right weight distribution).

Then, rather than ASSUMING that all those who work with truck tires are 100% up to speed on the tire manufacturer's inflation tables and how to use them, just go to your tire manufacturer's inflation chart yourself.

If individual wheel position weights, take the heavier wheel on each axle to go to the chart. The chart will give you the MINIMUM PSI for that given weight. All tire on an axle are inflated to the same PSI based on the heavier wheel position.

If only axle weights, use that to go to the charts. in addition to the "safety factor" below, you will need to add an additional 5-10 PSI to account for any left/right imbalance.

From the "minimum PSI for a given weight" it is a good idea to add 5-10 PSI safety cushion so that you don't have to get anal about tire pressure. Said another way, that minimum recommended PSI may be SUB-minimum if fuel and water are both full and you just had a very successful Walmart shopping spree. Make sure PSI does not exceed that on the sidewall of the tire or the specs for the rims.

Brett




--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Dale Maggio <dalemaggio@...> wrote:
>
> I would agree with Jim, however, I just replaced my front with Michelins and weighed the front axel at 8200lbs.  My tire guy said 120 max, 100 minimum, and probably get the best ride at 110.
>  
> I suggest, you weight your coach and talk to a truck tire guy.  Go to a truck shop, car tires guys are clueless about big RV tires.
>
> -=Dale=-
> 99 Sahara 3506
>
> --- On Thu, 6/13/13, Jim Exler <jimxexler@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Jim Exler <jimxexler@...>
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, June 13, 2013, 5:22 AM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Michael,
>  
> Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart.  Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
>  
> When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
>  
> Jim X Exler
>  
>
>
>  
>
> From: Michael
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
>  
>  
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> Ram pickup.
>
> Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
>
> We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> Virtually nothing in the basement.
>
> What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
>
> I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> scale.
>
> Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
>
> Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
>
> --
> Michael
> 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> 49K miles
> 8.3 Cummins
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21793 From: Michael Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Where do you usually get your rig weighed?

How do you weigh each wheel?

Thanks,


On 6/13/2013 7:22 AM, Jim Exler wrote:
 

Michael,
 
Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart.  Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
 
When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
 
Jim X Exler
 
 
From: Michael
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
 
 

Hi everyone.

Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
Ram pickup.

Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
seat says 80 front, 85 rear.

We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
Virtually nothing in the basement.

What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?

I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
scale.

Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.

Thanks in advance for your valuable input!

--
Michael
1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
49K miles
8.3 Cummins


-- 
Michael
1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
49K miles
8.3 Cummins
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21795 From: billygoof1 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Truck tire guys are the same, I got tired arguing with them over pressures I just adjusted them myself, It is easier than arguing with the tire tech (?). ( New England Truck Tire in Portsmouth,NH
in case you are wondering ).
--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Dale Maggio <dalemaggio@...> wrote:
>
> I would agree with Jim, however, I just replaced my front with Michelins and weighed the front axel at 8200lbs.  My tire guy said 120 max, 100 minimum, and probably get the best ride at 110.
>  
> I suggest, you weight your coach and talk to a truck tire guy.  Go to a truck shop, car tires guys are clueless about big RV tires.
>
> -=Dale=-
> 99 Sahara 3506
>
> --- On Thu, 6/13/13, Jim Exler <jimxexler@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Jim Exler <jimxexler@...>
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, June 13, 2013, 5:22 AM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Michael,
>  
> Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart.  Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
>  
> When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
>  
> Jim X Exler
>  
>
>
>  
>
> From: Michael
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
>  
>  
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> Ram pickup.
>
> Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
>
> We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> Virtually nothing in the basement.
>
> What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
>
> I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> scale.
>
> Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
>
> Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
>
> --
> Michael
> 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> 49K miles
> 8.3 Cummins
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21800 From: dieseldave2003 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
I used the local waste transfer station. They have truck scales set up for charging the haulers by the pound. Luckily the "outbound" side is set up with a wide flat area along side the scale. Nice digital readout overhead for you to read, and it was free.

First, on the inbound scale, I read the front total, then pulled forward and weighed the whole coach. Then made the turnaround and on the outbound scale, weighed the drivers side front, then the drivers side total weight. A little adding and subtracting, and you have the individual wheel weights.

Dave F
'95 Safari Ivory, 38', Cummins

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Michael <landtamer@...> wrote:
>
> Where do you usually get your rig weighed?
>
> How do you weigh each wheel?
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> On 6/13/2013 7:22 AM, Jim Exler wrote:
> >
> > Michael,
> > Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run
> > the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those
> > settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> > Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and
> > download the weight vs pressure chart. Most of the time that can be
> > found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really
> > should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the
> > weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and
> > overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on
> > the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
> > When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for
> > excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
> > Jim X Exler
> > *From:* Michael <mailto:landtamer@...>
> > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> > *To:* Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> > <mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
> > *Subject:* [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
> >
> > Hi everyone.
> >
> > Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> > Ram pickup.
> >
> > Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> > seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
> >
> > We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> > coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> > Virtually nothing in the basement.
> >
> > What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
> >
> > I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> > scale.
> >
> > Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> > after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> > lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
> >
> > --
> > Michael
> > 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> > 49K miles
> > 8.3 Cummins
> >
> >
>
> --
> Michael
> 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> 49K miles
> 8.3 Cummins
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21802 From: stuplich@ymail.com Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: Tire pressure (again)
Good question!
I have a similar can I?/should I? question.

I run 100 psi all around, and have for 12 years.
I now have 8k miles on the third set of 6 tires.
The handling is great, (and the tire wear has been satisfactory on both of the 2 previous sets tires).
However, the ride has always been very rough.

Based on the individual wheel weights, (as weighed), the Michelin weight/pressure charts say that my pressures can/should be 85 psi (front) and 90 psi (rear)....(the SMC label next to the drivers seat states "90 psi", front and rear).

I've been hesitant to lower the pressures for fear of increased tire wear.... (if it's not broke, don't fix it)!
What is your opinion?

BTW, if I-40 in Oklahoma DOESN'T shake things up something's WRONG. <smile>

Mel
'96 Sahara, 131k miles
21,760 lbs, (loaded for travel)


--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Michael <landtamer@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge Ram pickup.
>
> Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
>
> We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> Virtually nothing in the basement.
>
> What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
>
> I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a scale.
>
> Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
>
> Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
> --
> Michael
> 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> 49K miles
> 8.3 Cummins
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21804 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: Tire pressure (again)
Mel,

My suggestion, if Michelin's recommendation (remember, this is the MINIMUM for a given weight) is front 85 and rear 90 rear, I would lower fronts to 95, leaving rears where they are. Then perhaps try a run with 90 front, 95 rear. If no discernible difference between ride with the lower figures, I would stick with the 95 front, 100 rear.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "stuplich@..." <stuplich@...> wrote:
>
> Good question!
> I have a similar can I?/should I? question.
>
> I run 100 psi all around, and have for 12 years.
> I now have 8k miles on the third set of 6 tires.
> The handling is great, (and the tire wear has been satisfactory on both of the 2 previous sets tires).
> However, the ride has always been very rough.
>
> Based on the individual wheel weights, (as weighed), the Michelin weight/pressure charts say that my pressures can/should be 85 psi (front) and 90 psi (rear)....(the SMC label next to the drivers seat states "90 psi", front and rear).
>
> I've been hesitant to lower the pressures for fear of increased tire wear.... (if it's not broke, don't fix it)!
> What is your opinion?
>
> BTW, if I-40 in Oklahoma DOESN'T shake things up something's WRONG. <smile>
>
> Mel
> '96 Sahara, 131k miles
> 21,760 lbs, (loaded for travel)
>
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Michael <landtamer@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi everyone.
> >
> > Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge Ram pickup.
> >
> > Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
> >
> > We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> > Virtually nothing in the basement.
> >
> > What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
> >
> > I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a scale.
> >
> > Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
> > --
> > Michael
> > 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> > 49K miles
> > 8.3 Cummins
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21805 From: Dale Maggio Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Brett, in California, all they care about is axel weight. I will bet that here in the highest tech center of the world, anyone would be very hard pressed to find a scale that you can get individual tire weights on. In California weight stations are segmented to get individual axels. Weighing each tire is obsessive.

I seriously doubt anyone, even you, are going to adjust each tire differently, which most tire people will tell you is an accident waiting to happen. There are too many variables to make that kind of precision useful. (Are yu going around a corner, is the fuel/water sloshing side to side, is the sun warming one side more than the other, did your co-pilot eat yogurt or steak last?)

Weight the axel, divide by 2, and put just a micro faith in profesionals who work with these things everyday.  


From: wolfe102001 <bawolfe10@...>;
To: <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>;
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Sent: Thu, Jun 13, 2013 1:13:18 PM

 

Yes, get it weighed (individual wheel position weights better than just axle weights as it does not ASSUME perfect left/right weight distribution).

Then, rather than ASSUMING that all those who work with truck tires are 100% up to speed on the tire manufacturer's inflation tables and how to use them, just go to your tire manufacturer's inflation chart yourself.

If individual wheel position weights, take the heavier wheel on each axle to go to the chart. The chart will give you the MINIMUM PSI for that given weight. All tire on an axle are inflated to the same PSI based on the heavier wheel position.

If only axle weights, use that to go to the charts. in addition to the "safety factor" below, you will need to add an additional 5-10 PSI to account for any left/right imbalance.

From the "minimum PSI for a given weight" it is a good idea to add 5-10 PSI safety cushion so that you don't have to get anal about tire pressure. Said another way, that minimum recommended PSI may be SUB-minimum if fuel and water are both full and you just had a very successful Walmart shopping spree. Make sure PSI does not exceed that on the sidewall of the tire or the specs for the rims.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Dale Maggio <dalemaggio@...> wrote:
>
> I would agree with Jim, however, I just replaced my front with Michelins and weighed the front axel at 8200lbs.  My tire guy said 120 max, 100 minimum, and probably get the best ride at 110.
>  
> I suggest, you weight your coach and talk to a truck tire guy.  Go to a truck shop, car tires guys are clueless about big RV tires.
>
> -=Dale=-
> 99 Sahara 3506
>
> --- On Thu, 6/13/13, Jim Exler <jimxexler@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Jim Exler <jimxexler@...>
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Date: Thursday, June 13, 2013, 5:22 AM
>
>
>
>  
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Michael,
>  
> Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart.  Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
>  
> When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
>  
> Jim X Exler
>  
>
>
>  
>
> From: Michael
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
>  
>  
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> Ram pickup.
>
> Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
>
> We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> Virtually nothing in the basement.
>
> What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
>
> I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> scale.
>
> Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
>
> Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
>
> --
> Michael
> 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> 49K miles
> 8.3 Cummins
>

Group: Safarifriends Message: 21817 From: gary_wolfer Date: 6/13/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
This is an old trick I learned while a truck driver for many years. It is the only correct way I know to get your tires to wear evenly thus give you the best mileage possible. The only thing I see that could happpen by changing tire size is the duals could possibly run too close together and create an overheating problem for your sidewalls.
It starts this way put your coach on a flat level stretch of concrete or asphalt. take a piece of sidewalk chalk and draw across the tread on each tire. drive a couple of rotations on the tires then look and see if they are wearing on the outside, inside or all the way across. Keep remarking the tires till you are satisfied. The ideal wear would be all the way across the tread. Each tire will be different. A properly inflated tire could give you several thousand more miles.

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Exler" <jimxexler@...> wrote:
>
> Michael,
>
> Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart. Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
>
> When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
>
> Jim X Exler
>
>
> From: Michael
> Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
>
>
> Hi everyone.
>
> Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> Ram pickup.
>
> Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
>
> We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> Virtually nothing in the basement.
>
> What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
>
> I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> scale.
>
> Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
>
> Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
>
> --
> Michael
> 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> 49K miles
> 8.3 Cummins
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21831 From: billygoof1 Date: 6/14/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
Has anyone investigated the new style duallies on over the road trailers ? There is only 1 rim and 1 tire but they are as wide as regular dual tires......

Bill Gough
'96 TREK 2430 w/ 6.5 TD

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "gary_wolfer" <buyers@...> wrote:
>
> This is an old trick I learned while a truck driver for many years. It is the only correct way I know to get your tires to wear evenly thus give you the best mileage possible. The only thing I see that could happpen by changing tire size is the duals could possibly run too close together and create an overheating problem for your sidewalls.
> It starts this way put your coach on a flat level stretch of concrete or asphalt. take a piece of sidewalk chalk and draw across the tread on each tire. drive a couple of rotations on the tires then look and see if they are wearing on the outside, inside or all the way across. Keep remarking the tires till you are satisfied. The ideal wear would be all the way across the tread. Each tire will be different. A properly inflated tire could give you several thousand more miles.
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Exler" <jimxexler@> wrote:
> >
> > Michael,
> >
> > Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> > Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart. Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
> >
> > When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
> >
> > Jim X Exler
> >
> >
> > From: Michael
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> > To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
> >
> >
> > Hi everyone.
> >
> > Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> > Ram pickup.
> >
> > Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> > seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
> >
> > We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> > coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> > Virtually nothing in the basement.
> >
> > What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
> >
> > I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> > scale.
> >
> > Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> > after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> > lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
> >
> > --
> > Michael
> > 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> > 49K miles
> > 8.3 Cummins
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21832 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/14/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
They are called SUPER SINGLES. Saw a Beaver DP yesterday with them. He was on his way to the FMCA Convention in Gillette.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "billygoof1" <billygoof@...> wrote:
>
> Has anyone investigated the new style duallies on over the road trailers ? There is only 1 rim and 1 tire but they are as wide as regular dual tires......
>
> Bill Gough
> '96 TREK 2430 w/ 6.5 TD
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "gary_wolfer" <buyers@> wrote:
> >
> > This is an old trick I learned while a truck driver for many years. It is the only correct way I know to get your tires to wear evenly thus give you the best mileage possible. The only thing I see that could happpen by changing tire size is the duals could possibly run too close together and create an overheating problem for your sidewalls.
> > It starts this way put your coach on a flat level stretch of concrete or asphalt. take a piece of sidewalk chalk and draw across the tread on each tire. drive a couple of rotations on the tires then look and see if they are wearing on the outside, inside or all the way across. Keep remarking the tires till you are satisfied. The ideal wear would be all the way across the tread. Each tire will be different. A properly inflated tire could give you several thousand more miles.
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Exler" <jimxexler@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Michael,
> > >
> > > Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> > > Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart. Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
> > >
> > > When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
> > >
> > > Jim X Exler
> > >
> > >
> > > From: Michael
> > > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> > > To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi everyone.
> > >
> > > Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> > > Ram pickup.
> > >
> > > Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> > > seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
> > >
> > > We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> > > coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> > > Virtually nothing in the basement.
> > >
> > > What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
> > >
> > > I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> > > scale.
> > >
> > > Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> > > after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> > > lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
> > >
> > > --
> > > Michael
> > > 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> > > 49K miles
> > > 8.3 Cummins
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21839 From: gary_wolfer Date: 6/14/2013
Subject: Re: [Safari friends] Tire pressure (again)
I have had my coach since 2002. It had 36,000 miles and the warranty had just run out so the previous owner traded it in. The dealer put a set of Michelin XZE tires on it when I purchased it. I just put my second set of tires on it in January with 106,000 miles on it. I still had 3/32 of tread left. The sidewalls had no checking. I installed the same tires this time. If you go to the Michelin web site you will see that the XZE has 3/32 more tread depth than their XRV tires. They have a heavier sidewall and are siped. I have had great service out of them and expect to get another 70,000 mi and 10 years,or better next time. Coupled with the method I mentioned using sidewalk chalk and a great tire I have had great success with these tires. (I kept two of my take offs for spares)

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "gary_wolfer" <buyers@...> wrote:
>
> This is an old trick I learned while a truck driver for many years. It is the only correct way I know to get your tires to wear evenly thus give you the best mileage possible. The only thing I see that could happpen by changing tire size is the duals could possibly run too close together and create an overheating problem for your sidewalls.
> It starts this way put your coach on a flat level stretch of concrete or asphalt. take a piece of sidewalk chalk and draw across the tread on each tire. drive a couple of rotations on the tires then look and see if they are wearing on the outside, inside or all the way across. Keep remarking the tires till you are satisfied. The ideal wear would be all the way across the tread. Each tire will be different. A properly inflated tire could give you several thousand more miles.
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Jim Exler" <jimxexler@> wrote:
> >
> > Michael,
> >
> > Unless you have changed tire sizes from the original, by all means run the tire pressures on the plate for a start. Safari based those settings on the weight the coach was set for originally.
> > Lookup your particular tire size on the manufacturers website and download the weight vs pressure chart. Most of the time that can be found in their truck tire guide which you can download. You really should weigh each axle at the least and set the pressures based on the weight carried by each tire, axle / 2. Riding on rocks is no fun and overinflated, the tires contact patch is reduced causing less grip on the road and more wear in the center of the tread.
> >
> > When ever I stop, I walk around the coach and check each tire for excessive heat. A low tire will flex too much and exhibit excessive heat.
> >
> > Jim X Exler
> >
> >
> > From: Michael
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 7:33 PM
> > To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Safarifriends] Tire pressure (again)
> >
> >
> > Hi everyone.
> >
> > Our last couple of trips have been very bumpy. Way more then my Dodge
> > Ram pickup.
> >
> > Checking the tires, all 6 are at 100PSI. The plate next to the drivers
> > seat says 80 front, 85 rear.
> >
> > We run light, full gas tank, but not much water and haven't loaded the
> > coach cabinets as we are using it as a very comfortable limo right now.
> > Virtually nothing in the basement.
> >
> > What do you think? Will I be OK at 80 F and 85 R?
> >
> > I know I should get it weighed, but haven't had the chance to stop by a
> > scale.
> >
> > Ride height checked out OK. Shocks are good as there is no bouncing
> > after a bump, but we can feel every bump in the road. One time even
> > lifting the mattress off the bed box on I-40 in Oklahoma.
> >
> > Thanks in advance for your valuable input!
> >
> > --
> > Michael
> > 1993 Ivory Hi-Tech
> > 49K miles
> > 8.3 Cummins
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21923 From: miccol57 Date: 6/21/2013
Subject: hi im a new member and just learning more about 97 safari i rec
putting a new refrigerate in and taking to cat shop for tune up----175k miles and recommended 150k by cat found no maintenance records indicating
gonna also check frame,shocks and bushings --change oil in boxes while its there
i run full synthetic in diesels and gonna find out if avail with the Allison 6
then hopefully ready to roll
Group: Safarifriends Message: 21985 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/27/2013
Subject: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
Greetings from the Safari International Rally in Rapid City, SD.

At the maintenance seminar this morning, several of you asked that I post what maintenance items I had done/checked on the "new to us" coach.

1997 Safari Sahara 35' (3540). 75,000 miles:

Work completed (Items 1-40 completed 2/1/13 to 3/1/13:
1. Replace windshield wiper blades
2. Replace under-galley sink gray water check valve
3. Replace 5 gas springs on basement doors
4. Replace 4 house batteries (group 27 12 VDC deep cycle)
5. Set inverter/charger dip switches: Winter setting= 2 OFF. Summer all off except #2 ON. Also, Power Sharing at 5 amps= #7 and #8 ON. This turned off 5/22/13.
6. Replace propane line vapor port to regulator and vapor valve. Fill: Tank Capacity 37 gallons.
7. Replaced shore power cord
8. Replace two Thinlite bulbs over bathroom sink
9. Replace two Thinlite bulbs: forward most center line
10. Wash CAC and radiator
11. Replace all 28 window weep hole covers
12. Extend crankcase breather hose
13. Install Roadmaster Bright-lite kit and rewire connection to toad.
14. Waterproof refrigerator outside access floor.
15. Replace 2 front tires: Michelin 9R22.5. DOT 1711
16. Replace engine thermostat and gasket (PN119-3075) 178 degrees F
17. Transmission: Allison MD3060. Fluid last changed 4/12, 70,000 miles with Transynd. 2/12/13.
18. Change rear axle oil. Eaton 19060S. Dana Corp 877 777-5360,1,1 28 pts Super Tech GL-5 gear lube 75-140 (Walmart).
19. Change fuel filters
20. Change front axle oil Supertech 75-90 synthetic blend (Walmart)
21. Change hydraulic fluid. Walmart Super Tech ATF sku 78742 10365
22. Change brake fluid—bleed at wheel cylinders Supertech Dot III (Walmart) (took just under 1 gallon)
23. Lube chassis (front wheels off ground and turning).
24. Remount primary fuel filter (two pieces of aluminum).
25. Change engine oil and filter (Shell Rotella T). Calibrate dip stick: Low mark 26 qts. High mark 29 qts. Engine oil capacity with filter: 29 qts
26. New "gas" cap: Stant P/N: 10835= 11835
27. Adjust valves, new valve cover gasket.
28. Clean crankcase breather filter.
29. Tighten all 120 VAC breaker box connections, generator connection and ATS
30. Tighten all 12 VDC fuse panel connections (above bed and under front hood)
31. Install LED indicator for water heater switch
32. Install acoustical tile 1'X4' for insulation above fluorescent light in galley
33. New color back up camera CH with reverse image, and replaced lexan with ¼" glass. New color monitor Voyager AOM713.
34. Refrigerator burner area tune-up.
35. Reverse all cabinet catches and adjust all cabinet doors. Replace two small catches on all 4 full length closet doors with single centered larger 2" catches.
36. New Pacbrake PRXB exhaust brake, new compressor and new solenoid. Relocate Pacbrake air compressor to clean, dry location in aft driver's side bay. Add relay: 12 gauge wire from chassis hot to relay 87 with 20 amp fuse. Relay 86 to ground. Relay 85 pump pressure switch. Relay 30 to pump. Plumb in 50' air hose.
37. Service water heater—replace anode. 1 1/16" socket
38. New Koni shocks Front: 88051010 (FSD's). Rear: 881458SP2. 5/2/13. Rear shocks 1.75 turns firm of 2.5 available. 88051010 min 14.09". max 21.81. 881458SP2 min 15.94". max 25.67".
39. Clean and undercoat all four wheel wells.
40. Upgrade low beams and high beams, wiring each through fuse and 40 amp relay center under-hood. Old wire from head light switch is signal wire. Hot wires yellow, grounds blue, signal wire white.
41. Upgrade tail light wiring with 15 amp fuse, 40 amp relay. White wire from light switch. Red wire to tail lights. Yellow wire from chassis battery. Blue wire ground. (front passenger side of engine room).
42. Use De-oxit on Caterpillar ECM to coach wiring gang plug. Clean and protect engine ground with silicone di-electric grease.
43. Install new Jack Antenna
44. 4/8/13 Flush cooling system and change coolant. 4 Gallons Cat ELC concentrate and distilled water.
45. Double clamp all coolant hoses.
46. Add two 12 VDC outlets to passenger's side. Red hot, yellow ground. 12 gauge wire/20 amp breaker
47. Front and rear roof seams: Clean, refasten with ss screws and per Eternabond recommendation, apply Eternabond double sided tape and then Eternabond roof seal.
48. Install fiberglass floor in wet bay with separate emergency drain tube. Replace all Saniprene seals on potable water system in wet bay.
49. Install AirTabs across back of roof.
50. Steward and Stevenson Allison reset exhaust brake preselect to 5th gear.
51. Mustang Caterpillar re-program to SOFT CRUISE.
52. Replace sway bar bushings with polyurethane
54. Replace 12 VDC outlet driver's side.
55. R&R wheels--Clean and lubricate the brake caliper slides
56. Install two ½" spacers right front and right rear and check alignment: Alignment per Pruitt Co 4/24/13. Caster: Left 3.5degrees. Right 3.9 degrees. Toe: 1/32". Camber: R-1/4. L +1/4 degree. See also 1997 Safari Sahara Leaf Spring Suspension document
57. Center steering wheel with drag link and check axle stops.
58. Tighten engine water pump belt
59. 4/27/13 Replace engine air filter. Wix 46857
60. Install new U-line ice maker 5/3/13
61. Replace bathroom faucet
62. Shim all basement latches with plastic shims for correct tension
63. 6/10/13 replace water heater pop off valve: Cash Acme 16132A-0175 (15" wrench)
64. Paint windshield wiper arms (Satin Black Fusion)
65. Paint all exterior handles (Satin Black Fusion)
66. Paint front and rear black panels behind grills (Rustoleum Semi-gloss black)
67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
68. New Flexsteel Sofa Fold and Tumble with air mattress queen size bed
69. Paint all exterior handles Fusion Semi-gloss black.
70. Replace Velcro on windshield curtains
All position wheel weighting by RVSEF 6/23/13: Front GAWR: 8,200. Rear 15,800. LF3600. RF3450. LR7650. RR7450 . Full fuel, ¾ propane, empty potable water, empty black and gray. Loaded as travel (Gillette at FMCA Convention)

Brett
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22017 From: mutiger1947 Date: 6/29/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
You have been very busy!!

I saw this entry and I would like to know how you like the cork flooring. Do furniture legs dent it very much?

67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@...> wrote:
>
> Greetings from the Safari International Rally in Rapid City, SD.
>
> At the maintenance seminar this morning, several of you asked that I post what maintenance items I had done/checked on the "new to us" coach.
>
> 1997 Safari Sahara 35' (3540). 75,000 miles:
>
> Work completed (Items 1-40 completed 2/1/13 to 3/1/13:
> 1. Replace windshield wiper blades
> 2. Replace under-galley sink gray water check valve
> 3. Replace 5 gas springs on basement doors
> 4. Replace 4 house batteries (group 27 12 VDC deep cycle)
> 5. Set inverter/charger dip switches: Winter setting= 2 OFF. Summer all off except #2 ON. Also, Power Sharing at 5 amps= #7 and #8 ON. This turned off 5/22/13.
> 6. Replace propane line vapor port to regulator and vapor valve. Fill: Tank Capacity 37 gallons.
> 7. Replaced shore power cord
> 8. Replace two Thinlite bulbs over bathroom sink
> 9. Replace two Thinlite bulbs: forward most center line
> 10. Wash CAC and radiator
> 11. Replace all 28 window weep hole covers
> 12. Extend crankcase breather hose
> 13. Install Roadmaster Bright-lite kit and rewire connection to toad.
> 14. Waterproof refrigerator outside access floor.
> 15. Replace 2 front tires: Michelin 9R22.5. DOT 1711
> 16. Replace engine thermostat and gasket (PN119-3075) 178 degrees F
> 17. Transmission: Allison MD3060. Fluid last changed 4/12, 70,000 miles with Transynd. 2/12/13.
> 18. Change rear axle oil. Eaton 19060S. Dana Corp 877 777-5360,1,1 28 pts Super Tech GL-5 gear lube 75-140 (Walmart).
> 19. Change fuel filters
> 20. Change front axle oil Supertech 75-90 synthetic blend (Walmart)
> 21. Change hydraulic fluid. Walmart Super Tech ATF sku 78742 10365
> 22. Change brake fluid—bleed at wheel cylinders Supertech Dot III (Walmart) (took just under 1 gallon)
> 23. Lube chassis (front wheels off ground and turning).
> 24. Remount primary fuel filter (two pieces of aluminum).
> 25. Change engine oil and filter (Shell Rotella T). Calibrate dip stick: Low mark 26 qts. High mark 29 qts. Engine oil capacity with filter: 29 qts
> 26. New "gas" cap: Stant P/N: 10835= 11835
> 27. Adjust valves, new valve cover gasket.
> 28. Clean crankcase breather filter.
> 29. Tighten all 120 VAC breaker box connections, generator connection and ATS
> 30. Tighten all 12 VDC fuse panel connections (above bed and under front hood)
> 31. Install LED indicator for water heater switch
> 32. Install acoustical tile 1'X4' for insulation above fluorescent light in galley
> 33. New color back up camera CH with reverse image, and replaced lexan with ¼" glass. New color monitor Voyager AOM713.
> 34. Refrigerator burner area tune-up.
> 35. Reverse all cabinet catches and adjust all cabinet doors. Replace two small catches on all 4 full length closet doors with single centered larger 2" catches.
> 36. New Pacbrake PRXB exhaust brake, new compressor and new solenoid. Relocate Pacbrake air compressor to clean, dry location in aft driver's side bay. Add relay: 12 gauge wire from chassis hot to relay 87 with 20 amp fuse. Relay 86 to ground. Relay 85 pump pressure switch. Relay 30 to pump. Plumb in 50' air hose.
> 37. Service water heater—replace anode. 1 1/16" socket
> 38. New Koni shocks Front: 88051010 (FSD's). Rear: 881458SP2. 5/2/13. Rear shocks 1.75 turns firm of 2.5 available. 88051010 min 14.09". max 21.81. 881458SP2 min 15.94". max 25.67".
> 39. Clean and undercoat all four wheel wells.
> 40. Upgrade low beams and high beams, wiring each through fuse and 40 amp relay center under-hood. Old wire from head light switch is signal wire. Hot wires yellow, grounds blue, signal wire white.
> 41. Upgrade tail light wiring with 15 amp fuse, 40 amp relay. White wire from light switch. Red wire to tail lights. Yellow wire from chassis battery. Blue wire ground. (front passenger side of engine room).
> 42. Use De-oxit on Caterpillar ECM to coach wiring gang plug. Clean and protect engine ground with silicone di-electric grease.
> 43. Install new Jack Antenna
> 44. 4/8/13 Flush cooling system and change coolant. 4 Gallons Cat ELC concentrate and distilled water.
> 45. Double clamp all coolant hoses.
> 46. Add two 12 VDC outlets to passenger's side. Red hot, yellow ground. 12 gauge wire/20 amp breaker
> 47. Front and rear roof seams: Clean, refasten with ss screws and per Eternabond recommendation, apply Eternabond double sided tape and then Eternabond roof seal.
> 48. Install fiberglass floor in wet bay with separate emergency drain tube. Replace all Saniprene seals on potable water system in wet bay.
> 49. Install AirTabs across back of roof.
> 50. Steward and Stevenson Allison reset exhaust brake preselect to 5th gear.
> 51. Mustang Caterpillar re-program to SOFT CRUISE.
> 52. Replace sway bar bushings with polyurethane
> 54. Replace 12 VDC outlet driver's side.
> 55. R&R wheels--Clean and lubricate the brake caliper slides
> 56. Install two ½" spacers right front and right rear and check alignment: Alignment per Pruitt Co 4/24/13. Caster: Left 3.5degrees. Right 3.9 degrees. Toe: 1/32". Camber: R-1/4. L +1/4 degree. See also 1997 Safari Sahara Leaf Spring Suspension document
> 57. Center steering wheel with drag link and check axle stops.
> 58. Tighten engine water pump belt
> 59. 4/27/13 Replace engine air filter. Wix 46857
> 60. Install new U-line ice maker 5/3/13
> 61. Replace bathroom faucet
> 62. Shim all basement latches with plastic shims for correct tension
> 63. 6/10/13 replace water heater pop off valve: Cash Acme 16132A-0175 (15" wrench)
> 64. Paint windshield wiper arms (Satin Black Fusion)
> 65. Paint all exterior handles (Satin Black Fusion)
> 66. Paint front and rear black panels behind grills (Rustoleum Semi-gloss black)
> 67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
> 68. New Flexsteel Sofa Fold and Tumble with air mattress queen size bed
> 69. Paint all exterior handles Fusion Semi-gloss black.
> 70. Replace Velcro on windshield curtains
> All position wheel weighting by RVSEF 6/23/13: Front GAWR: 8,200. Rear 15,800. LF3600. RF3450. LR7650. RR7450 . Full fuel, ¾ propane, empty potable water, empty black and gray. Loaded as travel (Gillette at FMCA Convention)
>
> Brett
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22021 From: wolfe102001 Date: 6/29/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
We have only had it a little over a month-- finished two days before leaving for the Diesel RV Club Rally, FMCA Convention and Safari International Rally.

So far no dents. We did put the felt pads under the chairs.

So far, like it very much. Easy on the feet, light weight (about 1/3 the weight of oak or bamboo), good thermal and good acoustic insulation. Also, the U.S. Floor cork had no formaldehyde-- important in an enclosed space.

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "mutiger1947" <mutiger1947@...> wrote:
>
> You have been very busy!!
>
> I saw this entry and I would like to know how you like the cork flooring. Do furniture legs dent it very much?
>
> 67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > Greetings from the Safari International Rally in Rapid City, SD.
> >
> > At the maintenance seminar this morning, several of you asked that I post what maintenance items I had done/checked on the "new to us" coach.
> >
> > 1997 Safari Sahara 35' (3540). 75,000 miles:
> >
> > Work completed (Items 1-40 completed 2/1/13 to 3/1/13:
> > 1. Replace windshield wiper blades
> > 2. Replace under-galley sink gray water check valve
> > 3. Replace 5 gas springs on basement doors
> > 4. Replace 4 house batteries (group 27 12 VDC deep cycle)
> > 5. Set inverter/charger dip switches: Winter setting= 2 OFF. Summer all off except #2 ON. Also, Power Sharing at 5 amps= #7 and #8 ON. This turned off 5/22/13.
> > 6. Replace propane line vapor port to regulator and vapor valve. Fill: Tank Capacity 37 gallons.
> > 7. Replaced shore power cord
> > 8. Replace two Thinlite bulbs over bathroom sink
> > 9. Replace two Thinlite bulbs: forward most center line
> > 10. Wash CAC and radiator
> > 11. Replace all 28 window weep hole covers
> > 12. Extend crankcase breather hose
> > 13. Install Roadmaster Bright-lite kit and rewire connection to toad.
> > 14. Waterproof refrigerator outside access floor.
> > 15. Replace 2 front tires: Michelin 9R22.5. DOT 1711
> > 16. Replace engine thermostat and gasket (PN119-3075) 178 degrees F
> > 17. Transmission: Allison MD3060. Fluid last changed 4/12, 70,000 miles with Transynd. 2/12/13.
> > 18. Change rear axle oil. Eaton 19060S. Dana Corp 877 777-5360,1,1 28 pts Super Tech GL-5 gear lube 75-140 (Walmart).
> > 19. Change fuel filters
> > 20. Change front axle oil Supertech 75-90 synthetic blend (Walmart)
> > 21. Change hydraulic fluid. Walmart Super Tech ATF sku 78742 10365
> > 22. Change brake fluid—bleed at wheel cylinders Supertech Dot III (Walmart) (took just under 1 gallon)
> > 23. Lube chassis (front wheels off ground and turning).
> > 24. Remount primary fuel filter (two pieces of aluminum).
> > 25. Change engine oil and filter (Shell Rotella T). Calibrate dip stick: Low mark 26 qts. High mark 29 qts. Engine oil capacity with filter: 29 qts
> > 26. New "gas" cap: Stant P/N: 10835= 11835
> > 27. Adjust valves, new valve cover gasket.
> > 28. Clean crankcase breather filter.
> > 29. Tighten all 120 VAC breaker box connections, generator connection and ATS
> > 30. Tighten all 12 VDC fuse panel connections (above bed and under front hood)
> > 31. Install LED indicator for water heater switch
> > 32. Install acoustical tile 1'X4' for insulation above fluorescent light in galley
> > 33. New color back up camera CH with reverse image, and replaced lexan with ¼" glass. New color monitor Voyager AOM713.
> > 34. Refrigerator burner area tune-up.
> > 35. Reverse all cabinet catches and adjust all cabinet doors. Replace two small catches on all 4 full length closet doors with single centered larger 2" catches.
> > 36. New Pacbrake PRXB exhaust brake, new compressor and new solenoid. Relocate Pacbrake air compressor to clean, dry location in aft driver's side bay. Add relay: 12 gauge wire from chassis hot to relay 87 with 20 amp fuse. Relay 86 to ground. Relay 85 pump pressure switch. Relay 30 to pump. Plumb in 50' air hose.
> > 37. Service water heater—replace anode. 1 1/16" socket
> > 38. New Koni shocks Front: 88051010 (FSD's). Rear: 881458SP2. 5/2/13. Rear shocks 1.75 turns firm of 2.5 available. 88051010 min 14.09". max 21.81. 881458SP2 min 15.94". max 25.67".
> > 39. Clean and undercoat all four wheel wells.
> > 40. Upgrade low beams and high beams, wiring each through fuse and 40 amp relay center under-hood. Old wire from head light switch is signal wire. Hot wires yellow, grounds blue, signal wire white.
> > 41. Upgrade tail light wiring with 15 amp fuse, 40 amp relay. White wire from light switch. Red wire to tail lights. Yellow wire from chassis battery. Blue wire ground. (front passenger side of engine room).
> > 42. Use De-oxit on Caterpillar ECM to coach wiring gang plug. Clean and protect engine ground with silicone di-electric grease.
> > 43. Install new Jack Antenna
> > 44. 4/8/13 Flush cooling system and change coolant. 4 Gallons Cat ELC concentrate and distilled water.
> > 45. Double clamp all coolant hoses.
> > 46. Add two 12 VDC outlets to passenger's side. Red hot, yellow ground. 12 gauge wire/20 amp breaker
> > 47. Front and rear roof seams: Clean, refasten with ss screws and per Eternabond recommendation, apply Eternabond double sided tape and then Eternabond roof seal.
> > 48. Install fiberglass floor in wet bay with separate emergency drain tube. Replace all Saniprene seals on potable water system in wet bay.
> > 49. Install AirTabs across back of roof.
> > 50. Steward and Stevenson Allison reset exhaust brake preselect to 5th gear.
> > 51. Mustang Caterpillar re-program to SOFT CRUISE.
> > 52. Replace sway bar bushings with polyurethane
> > 54. Replace 12 VDC outlet driver's side.
> > 55. R&R wheels--Clean and lubricate the brake caliper slides
> > 56. Install two ½" spacers right front and right rear and check alignment: Alignment per Pruitt Co 4/24/13. Caster: Left 3.5degrees. Right 3.9 degrees. Toe: 1/32". Camber: R-1/4. L +1/4 degree. See also 1997 Safari Sahara Leaf Spring Suspension document
> > 57. Center steering wheel with drag link and check axle stops.
> > 58. Tighten engine water pump belt
> > 59. 4/27/13 Replace engine air filter. Wix 46857
> > 60. Install new U-line ice maker 5/3/13
> > 61. Replace bathroom faucet
> > 62. Shim all basement latches with plastic shims for correct tension
> > 63. 6/10/13 replace water heater pop off valve: Cash Acme 16132A-0175 (15" wrench)
> > 64. Paint windshield wiper arms (Satin Black Fusion)
> > 65. Paint all exterior handles (Satin Black Fusion)
> > 66. Paint front and rear black panels behind grills (Rustoleum Semi-gloss black)
> > 67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
> > 68. New Flexsteel Sofa Fold and Tumble with air mattress queen size bed
> > 69. Paint all exterior handles Fusion Semi-gloss black.
> > 70. Replace Velcro on windshield curtains
> > All position wheel weighting by RVSEF 6/23/13: Front GAWR: 8,200. Rear 15,800. LF3600. RF3450. LR7650. RR7450 . Full fuel, ¾ propane, empty potable water, empty black and gray. Loaded as travel (Gillette at FMCA Convention)
> >
> > Brett
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22523 From: safaritrekker Date: 8/8/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
Brett, Wow!!!! what a list!!! Can I ship you mine to work on??? I also have a 1997 Safari, mine is a 3506 which means one slide. I bought it a couple of years ago with 84k and am now about 95k on it. Have done a lot of the same maintenance/light enhancements/shocks/larger sway bars/removed W-D/new inverter/new house and coach batteries/new tires/etc. We love it. I'd love to see pictures of what you have done.

Also, I'm thinking of changing out my bilstein shocks for Koni FSD's, and wondered if I need the adjustable type or fixed? How do they work for you?

What is a jack antenna? Also what are the 1/2" spacers on the right side for? Do the Poly bushings on the sway bars make a difference? I've heard they make the ride "harsher" Thanks, Curt


--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@...> wrote:
>
> We have only had it a little over a month-- finished two days before leaving for the Diesel RV Club Rally, FMCA Convention and Safari International Rally.
>
> So far no dents. We did put the felt pads under the chairs.
>
> So far, like it very much. Easy on the feet, light weight (about 1/3 the weight of oak or bamboo), good thermal and good acoustic insulation. Also, the U.S. Floor cork had no formaldehyde-- important in an enclosed space.
>
> Brett
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "mutiger1947" <mutiger1947@> wrote:
> >
> > You have been very busy!!
> >
> > I saw this entry and I would like to know how you like the cork flooring. Do furniture legs dent it very much?
> >
> > 67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Greetings from the Safari International Rally in Rapid City, SD.
> > >
> > > At the maintenance seminar this morning, several of you asked that I post what maintenance items I had done/checked on the "new to us" coach.
> > >
> > > 1997 Safari Sahara 35' (3540). 75,000 miles:
> > >
> > > Work completed (Items 1-40 completed 2/1/13 to 3/1/13:
> > > 1. Replace windshield wiper blades
> > > 2. Replace under-galley sink gray water check valve
> > > 3. Replace 5 gas springs on basement doors
> > > 4. Replace 4 house batteries (group 27 12 VDC deep cycle)
> > > 5. Set inverter/charger dip switches: Winter setting= 2 OFF. Summer all off except #2 ON. Also, Power Sharing at 5 amps= #7 and #8 ON. This turned off 5/22/13.
> > > 6. Replace propane line vapor port to regulator and vapor valve. Fill: Tank Capacity 37 gallons.
> > > 7. Replaced shore power cord
> > > 8. Replace two Thinlite bulbs over bathroom sink
> > > 9. Replace two Thinlite bulbs: forward most center line
> > > 10. Wash CAC and radiator
> > > 11. Replace all 28 window weep hole covers
> > > 12. Extend crankcase breather hose
> > > 13. Install Roadmaster Bright-lite kit and rewire connection to toad.
> > > 14. Waterproof refrigerator outside access floor.
> > > 15. Replace 2 front tires: Michelin 9R22.5. DOT 1711
> > > 16. Replace engine thermostat and gasket (PN119-3075) 178 degrees F
> > > 17. Transmission: Allison MD3060. Fluid last changed 4/12, 70,000 miles with Transynd. 2/12/13.
> > > 18. Change rear axle oil. Eaton 19060S. Dana Corp 877 777-5360,1,1 28 pts Super Tech GL-5 gear lube 75-140 (Walmart).
> > > 19. Change fuel filters
> > > 20. Change front axle oil Supertech 75-90 synthetic blend (Walmart)
> > > 21. Change hydraulic fluid. Walmart Super Tech ATF sku 78742 10365
> > > 22. Change brake fluid—bleed at wheel cylinders Supertech Dot III (Walmart) (took just under 1 gallon)
> > > 23. Lube chassis (front wheels off ground and turning).
> > > 24. Remount primary fuel filter (two pieces of aluminum).
> > > 25. Change engine oil and filter (Shell Rotella T). Calibrate dip stick: Low mark 26 qts. High mark 29 qts. Engine oil capacity with filter: 29 qts
> > > 26. New "gas" cap: Stant P/N: 10835= 11835
> > > 27. Adjust valves, new valve cover gasket.
> > > 28. Clean crankcase breather filter.
> > > 29. Tighten all 120 VAC breaker box connections, generator connection and ATS
> > > 30. Tighten all 12 VDC fuse panel connections (above bed and under front hood)
> > > 31. Install LED indicator for water heater switch
> > > 32. Install acoustical tile 1'X4' for insulation above fluorescent light in galley
> > > 33. New color back up camera CH with reverse image, and replaced lexan with ¼" glass. New color monitor Voyager AOM713.
> > > 34. Refrigerator burner area tune-up.
> > > 35. Reverse all cabinet catches and adjust all cabinet doors. Replace two small catches on all 4 full length closet doors with single centered larger 2" catches.
> > > 36. New Pacbrake PRXB exhaust brake, new compressor and new solenoid. Relocate Pacbrake air compressor to clean, dry location in aft driver's side bay. Add relay: 12 gauge wire from chassis hot to relay 87 with 20 amp fuse. Relay 86 to ground. Relay 85 pump pressure switch. Relay 30 to pump. Plumb in 50' air hose.
> > > 37. Service water heater—replace anode. 1 1/16" socket
> > > 38. New Koni shocks Front: 88051010 (FSD's). Rear: 881458SP2. 5/2/13. Rear shocks 1.75 turns firm of 2.5 available. 88051010 min 14.09". max 21.81. 881458SP2 min 15.94". max 25.67".
> > > 39. Clean and undercoat all four wheel wells.
> > > 40. Upgrade low beams and high beams, wiring each through fuse and 40 amp relay center under-hood. Old wire from head light switch is signal wire. Hot wires yellow, grounds blue, signal wire white.
> > > 41. Upgrade tail light wiring with 15 amp fuse, 40 amp relay. White wire from light switch. Red wire to tail lights. Yellow wire from chassis battery. Blue wire ground. (front passenger side of engine room).
> > > 42. Use De-oxit on Caterpillar ECM to coach wiring gang plug. Clean and protect engine ground with silicone di-electric grease.
> > > 43. Install new Jack Antenna
> > > 44. 4/8/13 Flush cooling system and change coolant. 4 Gallons Cat ELC concentrate and distilled water.
> > > 45. Double clamp all coolant hoses.
> > > 46. Add two 12 VDC outlets to passenger's side. Red hot, yellow ground. 12 gauge wire/20 amp breaker
> > > 47. Front and rear roof seams: Clean, refasten with ss screws and per Eternabond recommendation, apply Eternabond double sided tape and then Eternabond roof seal.
> > > 48. Install fiberglass floor in wet bay with separate emergency drain tube. Replace all Saniprene seals on potable water system in wet bay.
> > > 49. Install AirTabs across back of roof.
> > > 50. Steward and Stevenson Allison reset exhaust brake preselect to 5th gear.
> > > 51. Mustang Caterpillar re-program to SOFT CRUISE.
> > > 52. Replace sway bar bushings with polyurethane
> > > 54. Replace 12 VDC outlet driver's side.
> > > 55. R&R wheels--Clean and lubricate the brake caliper slides
> > > 56. Install two ½" spacers right front and right rear and check alignment: Alignment per Pruitt Co 4/24/13. Caster: Left 3.5degrees. Right 3.9 degrees. Toe: 1/32". Camber: R-1/4. L +1/4 degree. See also 1997 Safari Sahara Leaf Spring Suspension document
> > > 57. Center steering wheel with drag link and check axle stops.
> > > 58. Tighten engine water pump belt
> > > 59. 4/27/13 Replace engine air filter. Wix 46857
> > > 60. Install new U-line ice maker 5/3/13
> > > 61. Replace bathroom faucet
> > > 62. Shim all basement latches with plastic shims for correct tension
> > > 63. 6/10/13 replace water heater pop off valve: Cash Acme 16132A-0175 (15" wrench)
> > > 64. Paint windshield wiper arms (Satin Black Fusion)
> > > 65. Paint all exterior handles (Satin Black Fusion)
> > > 66. Paint front and rear black panels behind grills (Rustoleum Semi-gloss black)
> > > 67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
> > > 68. New Flexsteel Sofa Fold and Tumble with air mattress queen size bed
> > > 69. Paint all exterior handles Fusion Semi-gloss black.
> > > 70. Replace Velcro on windshield curtains
> > > All position wheel weighting by RVSEF 6/23/13: Front GAWR: 8,200. Rear 15,800. LF3600. RF3450. LR7650. RR7450 . Full fuel, ¾ propane, empty potable water, empty black and gray. Loaded as travel (Gillette at FMCA Convention)
> > >
> > > Brett
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22524 From: wolfe102001 Date: 8/8/2013
Subject: Re: Maintenance List on 1997 Sahara 3540
REPLY IN SOLID LETTER CAPS.

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "safaritrekker" <cjhammond@...> wrote:
>
> Brett, Wow!!!! what a list!!! Can I ship you mine to work on??? I also have a 1997 Safari, mine is a 3506 which means one slide. I bought it a couple of years ago with 84k and am now about 95k on it. Have done a lot of the same maintenance/light enhancements/shocks/larger sway bars/removed W-D/new inverter/new house and coach batteries/new tires/etc. We love it. I'd love to see pictures of what you have done.
>
> Also, I'm thinking of changing out my bilstein shocks for Koni FSD's, and wondered if I need the adjustable type or fixed? How do they work for you? KONI FSD'S ARE SELF ADJUSTING-- NOT OWNER ADJUSTABLE. CAN'T REALLY COMPARE AS INSTALLED THEM IMMEDIATELY AFTER PURCHASE.
>
> What is a jack antenna? http://www.kingcontrols.com/jack/digital_tv_signal_finder.asp


Also what are the 1/2" spacers on the right side for? TO LEVEL THE COACH-- COULD HAVE REMOVED SPACERS FROM LEFT OR ADDED TO RIGHT. GOT WITH KONI AND ADDED TO SET SHOCKS AT MID-TRAVEL.

Do the Poly bushings on the sway bars make a difference? I've heard they make the ride "harsher". NO SWAY BAR BUSHING WILL MAKE THE RIDE HARSHER-- IF BOTH WHEELS GO OVER A BUMP AT THE SAME TIME, THEY PROVIDE ZERO STIFFNESS-- YOU CAN MOVE THEM WITH YOUR LITTLE FINGER IF BOTH END LINKS ARE REMOVED. THEY DO OFFER MORE RESISTANCE TO SWAY THAN RUBBER BUSHINGS-- PARTICULARLY IF THE OE BUSHINGS ARE SHOT.

BRETT

Thanks, Curt
>
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > We have only had it a little over a month-- finished two days before leaving for the Diesel RV Club Rally, FMCA Convention and Safari International Rally.
> >
> > So far no dents. We did put the felt pads under the chairs.
> >
> > So far, like it very much. Easy on the feet, light weight (about 1/3 the weight of oak or bamboo), good thermal and good acoustic insulation. Also, the U.S. Floor cork had no formaldehyde-- important in an enclosed space.
> >
> > Brett
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "mutiger1947" <mutiger1947@> wrote:
> > >
> > > You have been very busy!!
> > >
> > > I saw this entry and I would like to know how you like the cork flooring. Do furniture legs dent it very much?
> > >
> > > 67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
> > >
> > > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > Greetings from the Safari International Rally in Rapid City, SD.
> > > >
> > > > At the maintenance seminar this morning, several of you asked that I post what maintenance items I had done/checked on the "new to us" coach.
> > > >
> > > > 1997 Safari Sahara 35' (3540). 75,000 miles:
> > > >
> > > > Work completed (Items 1-40 completed 2/1/13 to 3/1/13:
> > > > 1. Replace windshield wiper blades
> > > > 2. Replace under-galley sink gray water check valve
> > > > 3. Replace 5 gas springs on basement doors
> > > > 4. Replace 4 house batteries (group 27 12 VDC deep cycle)
> > > > 5. Set inverter/charger dip switches: Winter setting= 2 OFF. Summer all off except #2 ON. Also, Power Sharing at 5 amps= #7 and #8 ON. This turned off 5/22/13.
> > > > 6. Replace propane line vapor port to regulator and vapor valve. Fill: Tank Capacity 37 gallons.
> > > > 7. Replaced shore power cord
> > > > 8. Replace two Thinlite bulbs over bathroom sink
> > > > 9. Replace two Thinlite bulbs: forward most center line
> > > > 10. Wash CAC and radiator
> > > > 11. Replace all 28 window weep hole covers
> > > > 12. Extend crankcase breather hose
> > > > 13. Install Roadmaster Bright-lite kit and rewire connection to toad.
> > > > 14. Waterproof refrigerator outside access floor.
> > > > 15. Replace 2 front tires: Michelin 9R22.5. DOT 1711
> > > > 16. Replace engine thermostat and gasket (PN119-3075) 178 degrees F
> > > > 17. Transmission: Allison MD3060. Fluid last changed 4/12, 70,000 miles with Transynd. 2/12/13.
> > > > 18. Change rear axle oil. Eaton 19060S. Dana Corp 877 777-5360,1,1 28 pts Super Tech GL-5 gear lube 75-140 (Walmart).
> > > > 19. Change fuel filters
> > > > 20. Change front axle oil Supertech 75-90 synthetic blend (Walmart)
> > > > 21. Change hydraulic fluid. Walmart Super Tech ATF sku 78742 10365
> > > > 22. Change brake fluid—bleed at wheel cylinders Supertech Dot III (Walmart) (took just under 1 gallon)
> > > > 23. Lube chassis (front wheels off ground and turning).
> > > > 24. Remount primary fuel filter (two pieces of aluminum).
> > > > 25. Change engine oil and filter (Shell Rotella T). Calibrate dip stick: Low mark 26 qts. High mark 29 qts. Engine oil capacity with filter: 29 qts
> > > > 26. New "gas" cap: Stant P/N: 10835= 11835
> > > > 27. Adjust valves, new valve cover gasket.
> > > > 28. Clean crankcase breather filter.
> > > > 29. Tighten all 120 VAC breaker box connections, generator connection and ATS
> > > > 30. Tighten all 12 VDC fuse panel connections (above bed and under front hood)
> > > > 31. Install LED indicator for water heater switch
> > > > 32. Install acoustical tile 1'X4' for insulation above fluorescent light in galley
> > > > 33. New color back up camera CH with reverse image, and replaced lexan with ¼" glass. New color monitor Voyager AOM713.
> > > > 34. Refrigerator burner area tune-up.
> > > > 35. Reverse all cabinet catches and adjust all cabinet doors. Replace two small catches on all 4 full length closet doors with single centered larger 2" catches.
> > > > 36. New Pacbrake PRXB exhaust brake, new compressor and new solenoid. Relocate Pacbrake air compressor to clean, dry location in aft driver's side bay. Add relay: 12 gauge wire from chassis hot to relay 87 with 20 amp fuse. Relay 86 to ground. Relay 85 pump pressure switch. Relay 30 to pump. Plumb in 50' air hose.
> > > > 37. Service water heater—replace anode. 1 1/16" socket
> > > > 38. New Koni shocks Front: 88051010 (FSD's). Rear: 881458SP2. 5/2/13. Rear shocks 1.75 turns firm of 2.5 available. 88051010 min 14.09". max 21.81. 881458SP2 min 15.94". max 25.67".
> > > > 39. Clean and undercoat all four wheel wells.
> > > > 40. Upgrade low beams and high beams, wiring each through fuse and 40 amp relay center under-hood. Old wire from head light switch is signal wire. Hot wires yellow, grounds blue, signal wire white.
> > > > 41. Upgrade tail light wiring with 15 amp fuse, 40 amp relay. White wire from light switch. Red wire to tail lights. Yellow wire from chassis battery. Blue wire ground. (front passenger side of engine room).
> > > > 42. Use De-oxit on Caterpillar ECM to coach wiring gang plug. Clean and protect engine ground with silicone di-electric grease.
> > > > 43. Install new Jack Antenna
> > > > 44. 4/8/13 Flush cooling system and change coolant. 4 Gallons Cat ELC concentrate and distilled water.
> > > > 45. Double clamp all coolant hoses.
> > > > 46. Add two 12 VDC outlets to passenger's side. Red hot, yellow ground. 12 gauge wire/20 amp breaker
> > > > 47. Front and rear roof seams: Clean, refasten with ss screws and per Eternabond recommendation, apply Eternabond double sided tape and then Eternabond roof seal.
> > > > 48. Install fiberglass floor in wet bay with separate emergency drain tube. Replace all Saniprene seals on potable water system in wet bay.
> > > > 49. Install AirTabs across back of roof.
> > > > 50. Steward and Stevenson Allison reset exhaust brake preselect to 5th gear.
> > > > 51. Mustang Caterpillar re-program to SOFT CRUISE.
> > > > 52. Replace sway bar bushings with polyurethane
> > > > 54. Replace 12 VDC outlet driver's side.
> > > > 55. R&R wheels--Clean and lubricate the brake caliper slides
> > > > 56. Install two ½" spacers right front and right rear and check alignment: Alignment per Pruitt Co 4/24/13. Caster: Left 3.5degrees. Right 3.9 degrees. Toe: 1/32". Camber: R-1/4. L +1/4 degree. See also 1997 Safari Sahara Leaf Spring Suspension document
> > > > 57. Center steering wheel with drag link and check axle stops.
> > > > 58. Tighten engine water pump belt
> > > > 59. 4/27/13 Replace engine air filter. Wix 46857
> > > > 60. Install new U-line ice maker 5/3/13
> > > > 61. Replace bathroom faucet
> > > > 62. Shim all basement latches with plastic shims for correct tension
> > > > 63. 6/10/13 replace water heater pop off valve: Cash Acme 16132A-0175 (15" wrench)
> > > > 64. Paint windshield wiper arms (Satin Black Fusion)
> > > > 65. Paint all exterior handles (Satin Black Fusion)
> > > > 66. Paint front and rear black panels behind grills (Rustoleum Semi-gloss black)
> > > > 67. Replace all flooring with U.S. Floors Cork Seroa Chocolate.
> > > > 68. New Flexsteel Sofa Fold and Tumble with air mattress queen size bed
> > > > 69. Paint all exterior handles Fusion Semi-gloss black.
> > > > 70. Replace Velcro on windshield curtains
> > > > All position wheel weighting by RVSEF 6/23/13: Front GAWR: 8,200. Rear 15,800. LF3600. RF3450. LR7650. RR7450 . Full fuel, ¾ propane, empty potable water, empty black and gray. Loaded as travel (Gillette at FMCA Convention)
> > > >
> > > > Brett
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22815 From: rcpaisley Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
I should probably add that it feels like a load bearing piece that is making the clunk. There is a very slight shift in something that makes the clunk. You can feel the shift through the chassis. I have looked at everything visually and can't see where something is shifting. But it seems like it would have to be a spring bushing or king pin or something similar that is carrying weight. Maybe it would be useful to disconnect the sway bar and shocks and see if I can make it clunk in an attempt to narrow down the possible list of suspects.

I am hoping that someone has had a similar experience and knows where to look,
Robert





--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Brett,
> It's a leaf spring suspension,
> Robert
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > Robert,
> >
> > What suspension do you have-- torsilastic or leaf spring?
> >
> > Brett
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 95 Sahara 35'.
> > > The front suspension makes a clunk noise when one front tire goes over a bump by itself, especially if in a tight turn at low speed. The sound is in the area of the wheel. Both front wheels can independently make the sound.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know what component this might be coming from?
> > > Maybe a worn king pin?
> > >
> > > Any help is appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Robert
> > > Upland, CA
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22816 From: Josh Addison Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
I've got a similar noise on my 94 Ivory with torsilastic suspension. Mine happens when entering/exiting driveways and makes a loud "snap/pop" that can be felt through the steering column and floor. 

Very random when it happens. Happens mostly when shifting the body weight from side to side. 

I'm going to disconnect the sway bar and retest. 

Maybe you can find someone with some "chassis ears" made by Steelman to help pinpoint the noise?  They are wireless microphones that you clip onto suspension components to help pinpoint the noise. 

I used them on mine and the majority of the noise is coming from the swaybat links. That's where I'm concentrating. 

Good luck!

Josh Addison
So. Cal.

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:27 PM, rcpaisley <robert@...> wrote:

 

I should probably add that it feels like a load bearing piece that is making the clunk. There is a very slight shift in something that makes the clunk. You can feel the shift through the chassis. I have looked at everything visually and can't see where something is shifting. But it seems like it would have to be a spring bushing or king pin or something similar that is carrying weight. Maybe it would be useful to disconnect the sway bar and shocks and see if I can make it clunk in an attempt to narrow down the possible list of suspects.

I am hoping that someone has had a similar experience and knows where to look,
Robert

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Brett,
> It's a leaf spring suspension,
> Robert
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > Robert,
> >
> > What suspension do you have-- torsilastic or leaf spring?
> >
> > Brett
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 95 Sahara 35'.
> > > The front suspension makes a clunk noise when one front tire goes over a bump by itself, especially if in a tight turn at low speed. The sound is in the area of the wheel. Both front wheels can independently make the sound.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know what component this might be coming from?
> > > Maybe a worn king pin?
> > >
> > > Any help is appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Robert
> > > Upland, CA
> > >
> >
>