Messages in Safarifriends group. Page 10 of 23.

Group: Safarifriends Message: 22817 From: wolfe102001 Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22818 From: Dick Missett Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22819 From: Gerald Poole Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22826 From: rcpaisley Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22980 From: safetymajestic Date: 9/3/2013
Subject: Re: 1992 Safari Serengeti High Tech Edition
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23101 From: Mr. G. Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23106 From: paulcell47 Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23109 From: rimichsz Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23113 From: Phillip and Joyce Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23115 From: Dale Maggio Date: 9/14/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23123 From: greg harding Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23124 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23126 From: bullfrog12136 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23127 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23129 From: Ronnie Gravitt Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23131 From: garyog97365 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23132 From: Dave Farley Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23133 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23134 From: knollibe Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23135 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23187 From: rob shelton Date: 9/20/2013
Subject: Re: Norcold problems
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23189 From: rob shelton Date: 9/20/2013
Subject: Re: Norcold problems
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23194 From: Gerald Poole Date: 9/20/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23198 From: paulcell47 Date: 9/21/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23201 From: Gerald Poole Date: 9/21/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23204 From: paulcell47 Date: 9/21/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23208 From: Gerry & Ruth Date: 9/22/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23236 From: taknoff Date: 9/25/2013
Subject: Re: Torsilastic Suspension FYI
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23646 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/1/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23647 From: kelly kircher Date: 11/1/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23648 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/1/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23653 From: kelly kircher Date: 11/2/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23654 From: Kenagy Randy Date: 11/2/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23655 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/2/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23679 From: svenbeck@rocketmail.com Date: 11/5/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23771 From: Gerald Larsen Date: 11/11/2013
Subject: Suspension
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23775 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/11/2013
Subject: Re: Suspension
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23828 From: Andrew Foley Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23829 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23831 From: Gerald Larsen Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23832 From: Gerald Larsen Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24097 From: stuplich@ymail.com Date: 1/1/2014
Subject: Re: Spindle and kingpin
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24245 From: wolfe102001 Date: 1/17/2014
Subject: Re: leaf spring sag
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24323 From: nullification2day Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: road bounce up front
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24327 From: daveg Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24328 From: Mr. G. Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24329 From: paulcell47 Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24332 From: Mr. G. Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24391 From: garysavage17347 Date: 2/7/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24392 From: Barry Whitaker Date: 2/7/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front



Group: Safarifriends Message: 22817 From: wolfe102001 Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
This will probably sound pretty obvious, but first thing I would do after a good visual inspection is a very complete chassis lube.

Along with the usual greasing, make sure the front wheels are off the ground and have someone slowly turn the steering wheel side to side while you grease the lower king pin zirk.

With the front wheels off the ground, you might also check the front leaf spring isolators that fit between the spring leafs. If any are missing, insert rubber (old inner tube) or plastic (like the sides of a Clorox bottle).

Brett

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Josh Addison <joshaddison711@...> wrote:
>
> I've got a similar noise on my 94 Ivory with torsilastic suspension. Mine
> happens when entering/exiting driveways and makes a loud "snap/pop" that
> can be felt through the steering column and floor.
>
> Very random when it happens. Happens mostly when shifting the body weight
> from side to side.
>
> I'm going to disconnect the sway bar and retest.
>
> Maybe you can find someone with some "chassis ears" made by Steelman to
> help pinpoint the noise? They are wireless microphones that you clip onto
> suspension components to help pinpoint the noise.
>
> I used them on mine and the majority of the noise is coming from the
> swaybat links. That's where I'm concentrating.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Josh Addison
> So. Cal.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:27 PM, rcpaisley <robert@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> I should probably add that it feels like a load bearing piece that is
> making the clunk. There is a very slight shift in something that makes the
> clunk. You can feel the shift through the chassis. I have looked at
> everything visually and can't see where something is shifting. But it seems
> like it would have to be a spring bushing or king pin or something similar
> that is carrying weight. Maybe it would be useful to disconnect the sway
> bar and shocks and see if I can make it clunk in an attempt to narrow down
> the possible list of suspects.
>
> I am hoping that someone has had a similar experience and knows where to
> look,
> Robert
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Brett,
> > It's a leaf spring suspension,
> > Robert
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Robert,
> > >
> > > What suspension do you have-- torsilastic or leaf spring?
> > >
> > > Brett
> > >
> > > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 95 Sahara 35'.
> > > > The front suspension makes a clunk noise when one front tire goes
> over a bump by itself, especially if in a tight turn at low speed. The
> sound is in the area of the wheel. Both front wheels can independently make
> the sound.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone know what component this might be coming from?
> > > > Maybe a worn king pin?
> > > >
> > > > Any help is appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Robert
> > > > Upland, CA
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22818 From: Dick Missett Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
I had a similar experience with my torsilastic suspension that turned out to be the torsion bar to the front (Westport) axle. I replaced it and added an additional torsion bar to the other (passenger) side.
 
Dick Missett
98 Sahara 300 CAT
Wyoming, PA

From: rcpaisley <robert@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 7:26 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
 
I should probably add that it feels like a load bearing piece that is making the clunk. There is a very slight shift in something that makes the clunk. You can feel the shift through the chassis. I have looked at everything visually and can't see where something is shifting. But it seems like it would have to be a spring bushing or king pin or something similar that is carrying weight. Maybe it would be useful to disconnect the sway bar and shocks and see if I can make it clunk in an attempt to narrow down the possible list of suspects.

I am hoping that someone has had a similar experience and knows where to look,
Robert

--- In mailto:Safarifriends%40yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Brett,
> It's a leaf spring suspension,
> Robert
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In mailto:Safarifriends%40yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > Robert,
> >
> > What suspension do you have-- torsilastic or leaf spring?
> >
> > Brett
> >
> > --- In mailto:Safarifriends%40yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 95 Sahara 35'.
> > > The front suspension makes a clunk noise when one front tire goes over a bump by itself, especially if in a tight turn at low speed. The sound is in the area of the wheel. Both front wheels can independently make the sound.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know what component this might be coming from?
> > > Maybe a worn king pin?
> > >
> > > Any help is appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Robert
> > > Upland, CA
> > >
> >
>

Group: Safarifriends Message: 22819 From: Gerald Poole Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
Robert,
I had one of the bolts for the anti sway bar snap, the bolt had a weak spot.  I got the clunk because the two parts would separate and then hit back together when the frame came back down.  Because the bolts were bolted on the top and bottom which put them back in alignment,  it was not obvious that the bolt was broken.  I replaced both front bolts with heavier duty bolts and larger rubber spacers and washers and have had no problems since.  Check that before you take the whole sway bar off.
Gerry
1997 Sahara



From: rcpaisley <robert@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 26, 2013 7:26 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara

 
I should probably add that it feels like a load bearing piece that is making the clunk. There is a very slight shift in something that makes the clunk. You can feel the shift through the chassis. I have looked at everything visually and can't see where something is shifting. But it seems like it would have to be a spring bushing or king pin or something similar that is carrying weight. Maybe it would be useful to disconnect the sway bar and shocks and see if I can make it clunk in an attempt to narrow down the possible list of suspects.

I am hoping that someone has had a similar experience and knows where to look,
Robert

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Brett,
> It's a leaf spring suspension,
> Robert
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> >
> > Robert,
> >
> > What suspension do you have-- torsilastic or leaf spring?
> >
> > Brett
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> > >
> > > I have a 95 Sahara 35'.
> > > The front suspension makes a clunk noise when one front tire goes over a bump by itself, especially if in a tight turn at low speed. The sound is in the area of the wheel. Both front wheels can independently make the sound.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know what component this might be coming from?
> > > Maybe a worn king pin?
> > >
> > > Any help is appreciated.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Robert
> > > Upland, CA
> > >
> >
>



Group: Safarifriends Message: 22826 From: rcpaisley Date: 8/26/2013
Subject: Re: front end clunk on low speed bumps in turn - 95 Sahara
Hi Josh,
Yes, driveways and body side loading in low speed turns seem to bring out the noise. Mine also has a similar "feel" to the clunk through the coach. Interesting that you are getting a similar symptom with the different suspension. Maybe there is a clue there.

Robert



--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, Josh Addison <joshaddison711@...> wrote:
>
> I've got a similar noise on my 94 Ivory with torsilastic suspension. Mine
> happens when entering/exiting driveways and makes a loud "snap/pop" that
> can be felt through the steering column and floor.
>
> Very random when it happens. Happens mostly when shifting the body weight
> from side to side.
>
> I'm going to disconnect the sway bar and retest.
>
> Maybe you can find someone with some "chassis ears" made by Steelman to
> help pinpoint the noise? They are wireless microphones that you clip onto
> suspension components to help pinpoint the noise.
>
> I used them on mine and the majority of the noise is coming from the
> swaybat links. That's where I'm concentrating.
>
> Good luck!
>
> Josh Addison
> So. Cal.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 26, 2013, at 4:27 PM, rcpaisley <robert@...> wrote:
>
>
>
> I should probably add that it feels like a load bearing piece that is
> making the clunk. There is a very slight shift in something that makes the
> clunk. You can feel the shift through the chassis. I have looked at
> everything visually and can't see where something is shifting. But it seems
> like it would have to be a spring bushing or king pin or something similar
> that is carrying weight. Maybe it would be useful to disconnect the sway
> bar and shocks and see if I can make it clunk in an attempt to narrow down
> the possible list of suspects.
>
> I am hoping that someone has had a similar experience and knows where to
> look,
> Robert
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Brett,
> > It's a leaf spring suspension,
> > Robert
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Robert,
> > >
> > > What suspension do you have-- torsilastic or leaf spring?
> > >
> > > Brett
> > >
> > > --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "rcpaisley" <robert@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > I have a 95 Sahara 35'.
> > > > The front suspension makes a clunk noise when one front tire goes
> over a bump by itself, especially if in a tight turn at low speed. The
> sound is in the area of the wheel. Both front wheels can independently make
> the sound.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone know what component this might be coming from?
> > > > Maybe a worn king pin?
> > > >
> > > > Any help is appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Robert
> > > > Upland, CA
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 22980 From: safetymajestic Date: 9/3/2013
Subject: Re: 1992 Safari Serengeti High Tech Edition

I have a 93 Serengeti High Tech, Oshkosh frame, cummings 190HP pusher, Allison 4 speed hydraulic, Genrac 6.5 kw propane, Heart converter(???). Replaced Norcold fridge in 2010 with new model, pretty much a pull out, slide in replacement. Next project is to replace blower motor on furnace, the mouse is getting much too loud on cold nights and they will be coming soon, LOL

 

Lots of roof leak problems, usually reseal every year or two. Just this week had to replace alternator, isolator and all associated cables. Not sure what went wrong but I suspect the isolator went bad and fried everything but the solinoid. Mine rides like a covered wagon but I suspect new shocks, springs, and addition of an air ride, or all three would remedy that. Both AC's occassionally trip breakers on very hot days but this has been intermitent. Being a 190 hp I don't go anywhere fast but I get around 12 mpg towing a 02 Ford Ranger PU. Also engine AC has not worked since I bought in 07, belt is not even on compressor. Cruise control does not function either but I have not trouble shot that. I have all original manuals for mine, can scan at some point if you would like a copy.



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <deckiedoo@...> wrote:

Brett, i found out actually it is a 1990 sold in 1992.

ford 460 on a Oshkosh chassis with a c6 transmission and a gear vendors over/under drive unit installed...also has banks power pack.
honda ev6010 rv generator, norcold frig, suburban heat system and a Atwood 6 Gallon Water Heater Electronic Ignition
thanks


doug

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "wolfe102001" <bawolfe10@...> wrote:
>
> Tell us more about your chassis and drivetrain and we would be happy to assist. 1992 was right at the "change point" for things like transmission (hydraulic 4 speed to electronic 6 speed).
>
> Brett
>
> --- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Doug" <deckiedoo@> wrote:
> >
> > Looking for other owners of this vehicle to compare notes.
> > Motor, Transmission, Maintenance, electrical and such.
> >
> > had it for 3 years now and still trying to figure out things.
> >
> > thanks all in advance
> >
> > pleasure to find similar minded people.
> >
> > doug
> >
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23101 From: Mr. G. Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
I have a '98 30 Sahara, single slide.  I added steel plates up front, Tiger Tracks, Safety Steer, DUAL shocks at each corner and I bolted on a storage box with push bar up front (see Safarifriends home page photo) which carries a couple of hundred pounds of tools and accessories. My coach does not wander at all. Tight as a drum.  One thing you may want to check is the distance between the center of the front wheel and the rear wheel on each side of the coach. Use a masonry line to get this measurement, then compare the two sides. You may find that there is an inch or two difference which would cause the coach to wander terribly. If so, the rear axle has slipped and will need to be straightened. A relatively easy fix.  This is what is known as dog tailing.
RG Moderator
 

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
From: taknoff@...
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 06:47:59 -0700
Subject: [Safarifriends] Steering play adjustment



Just brought 2000 30' sahara pusher  with 300hp cat. Wanders on the road, checked out steering box has a lot of slopp in it before pitman arm moves . Is there an adjustment bolt to tighten it up ?
Greg


Group: Safarifriends Message: 23106 From: paulcell47 Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
Do you have rubber or steel springs?


From: "Mr. G." <prieye@...>
To: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 10:30:34 AM
Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Steering  play adjustment

I have a '98 30 Sahara, single slide.  I added steel plates up front, Tiger Tracks, Safety Steer, DUAL shocks at each corner and I bolted on a storage box with push bar up front (see Safarifriends home page photo) which carries a couple of hundred pounds of tools and accessories. My coach does not wander at all. Tight as a drum.  One thing you may want to check is the distance between the center of the front wheel and the rear wheel on each side of the coach. Use a masonry line to get this measurement, then compare the two sides. You may find that there is an inch or two difference which would cause the coach to wander terribly. If so, the rear axle has slipped and will need to be straightened. A relatively easy fix.  This is what is known as dog tailing.
RG Moderator
 

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
From: taknoff@...
Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 06:47:59 -0700
Subject: [Safarifriends] Steering play adjustment



Just brought 2000 30' sahara pusher  with 300hp cat. Wanders on the road, checked out steering box has a lot of slopp in it before pitman arm moves . Is there an adjustment bolt to tighten it up ?
Greg


Group: Safarifriends Message: 23109 From: rimichsz Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
I have the B.F. Goodrich Torsalastic suspension.
RG

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, nanandpete@... wrote:
>
> Do you have rubber or steel springs?
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mr. G." <prieye@...>
> To: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Friday, September 13, 2013 10:30:34 AM
> Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] Steering play adjustment
>
>
>
>
> I have a '98 30 Sahara, single slide. I added steel plates up front, Tiger Tracks, Safety Steer, DUAL shocks at each corner and I bolted on a storage box with push bar up front (see Safarifriends home page photo) which carries a couple of hundred pounds of tools and accessories. My coach does not wander at all. Tight as a drum. One thing you may want to check is the distance between the center of the front wheel and the rear wheel on each side of the coach. Use a masonry line to get this measurement, then compare the two sides. You may find that there is an inch or two difference which would cause the coach to wander terribly. If so, the rear axle has slipped and will need to be straightened. A relatively easy fix. This is what is known as dog tailing.
> RG Moderator
>
>
>
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> From: taknoff@...
> Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 06:47:59 -0700
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Steering play adjustment
>
>
>
> Just brought 2000 30' sahara pusher with 300hp cat. Wanders on the road, checked out steering box has a lot of slopp in it before pitman arm moves . Is there an adjustment bolt to tighten it up ?
> Greg
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23113 From: Phillip and Joyce Date: 9/13/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
I think you mean [ Dog Tracking }
Phil

--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Mr. G." <prieye@...> wrote:
>
> I have a '98 30 Sahara, single slide. I added steel plates up front, Tiger Tracks, Safety Steer, DUAL shocks at each corner and I bolted on a storage box with push bar up front (see Safarifriends home page photo) which carries a couple of hundred pounds of tools and accessories. My coach does not wander at all. Tight as a drum. One thing you may want to check is the distance between the center of the front wheel and the rear wheel on each side of the coach. Use a masonry line to get this measurement, then compare the two sides. You may find that there is an inch or two difference which would cause the coach to wander terribly. If so, the rear axle has slipped and will need to be straightened. A relatively easy fix. This is what is known as dog tailing.
> RG Moderator
>
> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
> From: taknoff@...
> Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 06:47:59 -0700
> Subject: [Safarifriends] Steering play adjustment
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Just brought 2000 30' sahara pusher with 300hp cat. Wanders on the road, checked out steering box has a lot of slopp in it before pitman arm moves . Is there an adjustment bolt to tighten it up ?
> Greg
>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23115 From: Dale Maggio Date: 9/14/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
I think you mean going down the road like a Cocker Spaniel. ;-}

-=Dale=-

--------------------------------------------

I think you mean [ Dog Tracking }

Phil



--- In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, "Mr. G."
<prieye@...> wrote:

>

> I have a '98 30 Sahara, single slide. I added
steel plates up front, Tiger Tracks, Safety Steer, DUAL
shocks at each corner and I bolted on a storage box with
push bar up front (see Safarifriends home page photo) which
carries a couple of hundred pounds of tools and accessories.
My coach does not wander at all. Tight as a drum. One thing
you may want to check is the distance between the center of
the front wheel and the rear wheel on each side of the
coach. Use a masonry line to get this measurement, then
compare the two sides. You may find that there is an inch or
two difference which would cause the coach to wander
terribly. If so, the rear axle has slipped and will need to
be straightened. A relatively easy fix. This is what is
known as dog tailing.

> RG Moderator

>

> To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com

> From: taknoff@...

> Date: Fri, 13 Sep 2013 06:47:59 -0700

> Subject: [Safarifriends] Steering play adjustment

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> Just brought 2000 30' sahara pusher with 300hp
cat. Wanders on the road, checked out steering box has a lot
of slopp in it before pitman arm moves . Is there an
adjustment bolt to tighten it up ?

> Greg

>
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23123 From: greg harding Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
On steering play  I was looking  to see if it were shims for adjustment or a bolt tension adjustments my steering box.  I have new tires, 4 new shocks, front and rear sway bars ,and steering toe-end was measured and is OK. Any other help would be great.
Thanks
Greg
2000 Sahara 3016,pusher
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23124 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment

 No, the Sheppard steering box has no external adjustments.


There is a company in WA that blueprints the steering boxes.  No first hand information, but shops like Henderson and Precision Alignment use them: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/


Brett



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <taknoff@...> wrote:

On steering play  I was looking  to see if it were shims for adjustment or a bolt tension adjustments my steering box.  I have new tires, 4 new shocks, front and rear sway bars ,and steering toe-end was measured and is OK. Any other help would be great.
Thanks
Greg
2000 Sahara 3016,pusher
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23126 From: bullfrog12136 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment
I have yet to see a steering box that has no adjustment on it? If you know no more about the steering box, than to say it has no adjustment you best let a experienced  shop adjust it. The pitman shaft adjusts on every box I have ever seen. To check your travel adjustment on the pitman shaft, just turn the steering wheel back & forth, with the engine off & the vehicle setting still. There should be no slack or movement in the steering wheel. If there is movement and the front wheels don't move, the pitman shaft need adjusting. This excessive movement will cause your vehicle to wonder and hunt on the road, or stray from side to side. Hope this helps, also you can google steering gear repair and get some idea of what you are looking for. Dean

From: bawolfe10@...
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 8:24:15 AM
Subject: [Safarifriends] RE: Steering  play adjustment

 

 No, the Sheppard steering box has no external adjustments.


There is a company in WA that blueprints the steering boxes.  No first hand information, but shops like Henderson and Precision Alignment use them: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/


Brett



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <taknoff@...> wrote:

On steering play  I was looking  to see if it were shims for adjustment or a bolt tension adjustments my steering box.  I have new tires, 4 new shocks, front and rear sway bars ,and steering toe-end was measured and is OK. Any other help would be great.
Thanks
Greg
2000 Sahara 3016,pusher

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23127 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment

Dean,


You might give Sheppard a call on Monday and post here their recommendation for the external adjust procedure for removing play on the M80 steering box-- the one used on most Safari DP's.


Sheppard 717 637-3751


Thanks.



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <dddugger9@...> wrote:

I have yet to see a steering box that has no adjustment on it? If you know no more about the steering box, than to say it has no adjustment you best let a experienced  shop adjust it. The pitman shaft adjusts on every box I have ever seen. To check your travel adjustment on the pitman shaft, just turn the steering wheel back & forth, with the engine off & the vehicle setting still. There should be no slack or movement in the steering wheel. If there is movement and the front wheels don't move, the pitman shaft need adjusting. This excessive movement will cause your vehicle to wonder and hunt on the road, or stray from side to side. Hope this helps, also you can google steering gear repair and get some idea of what you are looking for. Dean

From: bawolfe10@...
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 8:24:15 AM
Subject: [Safarifriends] RE: Steering  play adjustment

 

 No, the Sheppard steering box has no external adjustments.


There is a company in WA that blueprints the steering boxes.  No first hand information, but shops like Henderson and Precision Alignment use them: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/


Brett



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <taknoff@...> wrote:

On steering play  I was looking  to see if it were shims for adjustment or a bolt tension adjustments my steering box.  I have new tires, 4 new shocks, front and rear sway bars ,and steering toe-end was measured and is OK. Any other help would be great.
Thanks
Greg
2000 Sahara 3016,pusher
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23129 From: Ronnie Gravitt Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: Steering play adjustment

I had also never seen a steering box without an adjustment until I looked at my 98 Serengeti. It doesn’t have an adjustment and mine has play after only 20K miles. Probably left the factory that way. From my reading of the history of Safari they were already having money troubles by 98 and probably went with the cheapest box they could get. I was hoping someone had found a better replacement for the whole box rather than having it rebuilt.

 

From: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dddugger9@...
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 10:38 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] RE: Steering play adjustment

 

 

I have yet to see a steering box that has no adjustment on it? If you know no more about the steering box, than to say it has no adjustment you best let a experienced  shop adjust it. The pitman shaft adjusts on every box I have ever seen. To check your travel adjustment on the pitman shaft, just turn the steering wheel back & forth, with the engine off & the vehicle setting still. There should be no slack or movement in the steering wheel. If there is movement and the front wheels don't move, the pitman shaft need adjusting. This excessive movement will cause your vehicle to wonder and hunt on the road, or stray from side to side. Hope this helps, also you can google steering gear repair and get some idea of what you are looking for. Dean


From: bawolfe10@...
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 8:24:15 AM
Subject: [Safarifriends] RE: Steering  play adjustment

 

 No, the Sheppard steering box has no external adjustments.

 

There is a company in WA that blueprints the steering boxes.  No first hand information, but shops like Henderson and Precision Alignment use them: http://www.redheadsteeringgears.com/

 

Brett



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <taknoff@...> wrote:

On steering play  I was looking  to see if it were shims for adjustment or a bolt tension adjustments my steering box.  I have new tires, 4 new shocks, front and rear sway bars ,and steering toe-end was measured and is OK. Any other help would be great.

Thanks

Greg

2000 Sahara 3016,pusher

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23131 From: garyog97365 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: "Wandering"
There have been several posts relative to the Coach wandering or not driving straight. People tend to blame tires, shocks, steering boxes, alignment, what have you.

I've had Safari's since 92, and what several of us has found out is that the problem "none of the above", not to say that all of those could be problems.

The basic issue is related to the type of suspension on the Safari and many other coaches. It's a solid axle (beam axle)suspension, rather than an independent suspension. While many coaches have solid axle suspension in the rear, the Safari has it in the front.
When a wheel hits a bump, the beam axle suspension also transmitts some of that force to the other side, and the end result is that the entire axle move slightly sideways, enough to cause the coach to "wander". The springs, whether rubber or metal, don't control this precisely.

This can occur in either the front or rear suspension, although the rear suspension on the Safari is more resistant to this than the front.

This is well known in racing circles, where precise steering is very important.

The cure is a diagonal link, with one end fastened to the chassis and the other end fastened to the axle. Usually only needed at the front end.

Camping World used to carry such an item made by Henderson Lineup in Grants Pass, Oregon.

Henderson’s Line-Up 417 Henderson Street (formerly 417 S.W. Marion Lane) Grants Pass, OR 97527. Phone: 541-479-2882 Toll Free: 800-245-8309

They manufacture a complete line of suspension parts as well as what I have mentioned.

If you call them, ask them also about the Safari Tie rod problem.

My wife wouldn't drive either of our Safari's, our 92 34' or our current 96 40', but after adding the tie rod, she is completly satisfied with how the 40' drives.

Hope this is useful.

Gary
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23132 From: Dave Farley Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Great explanation, and possible solution. Thanks.

Dave
'95 Safari Ivory Edition, 38', Cummins, 2004 Liberty toad

On Sep 15, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "garyog97365" <galternate@...> wrote:

 

There have been several posts relative to the Coach wandering or not driving straight. People tend to blame tires, shocks, steering boxes, alignment, what have you.

I've had Safari's since 92, and what several of us has found out is that the problem "none of the above", not to say that all of those could be problems.

The basic issue is related to the type of suspension on the Safari and many other coaches. It's a solid axle (beam axle)suspension, rather than an independent suspension. While many coaches have solid axle suspension in the rear, the Safari has it in the front.
When a wheel hits a bump, the beam axle suspension also transmitts some of that force to the other side, and the end result is that the entire axle move slightly sideways, enough to cause the coach to "wander". The springs, whether rubber or metal, don't control this precisely.

This can occur in either the front or rear suspension, although the rear suspension on the Safari is more resistant to this than the front.

This is well known in racing circles, where precise steering is very important.

The cure is a diagonal link, with one end fastened to the chassis and the other end fastened to the axle. Usually only needed at the front end.

Camping World used to carry such an item made by Henderson Lineup in Grants Pass, Oregon.

Henderson’s Line-Up 417 Henderson Street (formerly 417 S.W. Marion Lane) Grants Pass, OR 97527. Phone: 541-479-2882 Toll Free: 800-245-8309

They manufacture a complete line of suspension parts as well as what I have mentioned.

If you call them, ask them also about the Safari Tie rod problem.

My wife wouldn't drive either of our Safari's, our 92 34' or our current 96 40', but after adding the tie rod, she is completly satisfied with how the 40' drives.

Hope this is useful.

Gary

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23133 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"

Yes, you are describing a PANHARD ROD, also called a  TRACK BAR.


It attaches to the axle on one side and chassis on the other.  It allows full up/down movement, but controls side to side movement of axle to chassis.


Pioneer Metals has them for the Torsilastic suspension.


Additionally, on the Torsilastic suspension they offer Radius Rods that minimize bump steer-- where the axle is driven back when the tire hits a bump which causes a steering input that the driver must correct for.


http://www.pioneermetalworks.com/tigertrak.htm


I am not aware of anyone who offers Panhard rods for the leaf spring suspension, but would be interested if anyone knows of one.


Brett



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <dieseldave2003@...> wrote:

Great explanation, and possible solution. Thanks.

Dave
'95 Safari Ivory Edition, 38', Cummins, 2004 Liberty toad

On Sep 15, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "garyog97365" <galternate@...> wrote:

 

There have been several posts relative to the Coach wandering or not driving straight. People tend to blame tires, shocks, steering boxes, alignment, what have you.

I've had Safari's since 92, and what several of us has found out is that the problem "none of the above", not to say that all of those could be problems.

The basic issue is related to the type of suspension on the Safari and many other coaches. It's a solid axle (beam axle)suspension, rather than an independent suspension. While many coaches have solid axle suspension in the rear, the Safari has it in the front.
When a wheel hits a bump, the beam axle suspension also transmitts some of that force to the other side, and the end result is that the entire axle move slightly sideways, enough to cause the coach to "wander". The springs, whether rubber or metal, don't control this precisely.

This can occur in either the front or rear suspension, although the rear suspension on the Safari is more resistant to this than the front.

This is well known in racing circles, where precise steering is very important.

The cure is a diagonal link, with one end fastened to the chassis and the other end fastened to the axle. Usually only needed at the front end.

Camping World used to carry such an item made by Henderson Lineup in Grants Pass, Oregon.

Henderson’s Line-Up 417 Henderson Street (formerly 417 S.W. Marion Lane) Grants Pass, OR 97527. Phone: 541-479-2882 Toll Free: 800-245-8309

They manufacture a complete line of suspension parts as well as what I have mentioned.

If you call them, ask them also about the Safari Tie rod problem.

My wife wouldn't drive either of our Safari's, our 92 34' or our current 96 40', but after adding the tie rod, she is completly satisfied with how the 40' drives.

Hope this is useful.

Gary

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23134 From: knollibe Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Ya don't need a panhard bar with leaf springs.
Dwayne
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From: <bawolfe10@...>
Sender: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Date: 15 Sep 2013 13:37:28 -0700
To: <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Safarifriends] RE: "Wandering"

Yes, you are describing a PANHARD ROD, also called a  TRACK BAR.


It attaches to the axle on one side and chassis on the other.  It allows full up/down movement, but controls side to side movement of axle to chassis.


Pioneer Metals has them for the Torsilastic suspension.


Additionally, on the Torsilastic suspension they offer Radius Rods that minimize bump steer-- where the axle is driven back when the tire hits a bump which causes a steering input that the driver must correct for.


http://www.pioneermetalworks.com/tigertrak.htm


I am not aware of anyone who offers Panhard rods for the leaf spring suspension, but would be interested if anyone knows of one.


Brett



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <dieseldave2003@...> wrote:

Great explanation, and possible solution. Thanks.

Dave
'95 Safari Ivory Edition, 38', Cummins, 2004 Liberty toad

On Sep 15, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "garyog97365" <galternate@...> wrote:

 

There have been several posts relative to the Coach wandering or not driving straight. People tend to blame tires, shocks, steering boxes, alignment, what have you.

I've had Safari's since 92, and what several of us has found out is that the problem "none of the above", not to say that all of those could be problems.

The basic issue is related to the type of suspension on the Safari and many other coaches. It's a solid axle (beam axle)suspension, rather than an independent suspension. While many coaches have solid axle suspension in the rear, the Safari has it in the front.
When a wheel hits a bump, the beam axle suspension also transmitts some of that force to the other side, and the end result is that the entire axle move slightly sideways, enough to cause the coach to "wander". The springs, whether rubber or metal, don't control this precisely.

This can occur in either the front or rear suspension, although the rear suspension on the Safari is more resistant to this than the front.

This is well known in racing circles, where precise steering is very important.

The cure is a diagonal link, with one end fastened to the chassis and the other end fastened to the axle. Usually only needed at the front end.

Camping World used to carry such an item made by Henderson Lineup in Grants Pass, Oregon.

Henderson’s Line-Up 417 Henderson Street (formerly 417 S.W. Marion Lane) Grants Pass, OR 97527. Phone: 541-479-2882 Toll Free: 800-245-8309

They manufacture a complete line of suspension parts as well as what I have mentioned.

If you call them, ask them also about the Safari Tie rod problem.

My wife wouldn't drive either of our Safari's, our 92 34' or our current 96 40', but after adding the tie rod, she is completly satisfied with how the 40' drives.

Hope this is useful.

Gary

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23135 From: wolfe102001 Date: 9/15/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"

Dwayne,


Don't know the answer, since I am not aware of anyone who has tired it. 


I can tell you that track bars/panhard rods make a material improvement in both Ford and Workhorse leaf spring chassis.


At this point, I just want more information to see if  they would make a difference on the Safari leaf spring suspension.


The question boils down to one of whether there is any side to side play between axle and chassis in the leaf springs or spring bushings.



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <knollibe@...> wrote:

Ya don't need a panhard bar with leaf springs.
Dwayne
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T

From: <bawolfe10@...>
Sender: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Date: 15 Sep 2013 13:37:28 -0700
To: <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
ReplyTo: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Safarifriends] RE: "Wandering"

Yes, you are describing a PANHARD ROD, also called a  TRACK BAR.


It attaches to the axle on one side and chassis on the other.  It allows full up/down movement, but controls side to side movement of axle to chassis.


Pioneer Metals has them for the Torsilastic suspension.


Additionally, on the Torsilastic suspension they offer Radius Rods that minimize bump steer-- where the axle is driven back when the tire hits a bump which causes a steering input that the driver must correct for.


http://www.pioneermetalworks.com/tigertrak.htm


I am not aware of anyone who offers Panhard rods for the leaf spring suspension, but would be interested if anyone knows of one.


Brett



--- In safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <dieseldave2003@...> wrote:

Great explanation, and possible solution. Thanks.

Dave
'95 Safari Ivory Edition, 38', Cummins, 2004 Liberty toad

On Sep 15, 2013, at 1:06 PM, "garyog97365" <galternate@...> wrote:

 

There have been several posts relative to the Coach wandering or not driving straight. People tend to blame tires, shocks, steering boxes, alignment, what have you.

I've had Safari's since 92, and what several of us has found out is that the problem "none of the above", not to say that all of those could be problems.

The basic issue is related to the type of suspension on the Safari and many other coaches. It's a solid axle (beam axle)suspension, rather than an independent suspension. While many coaches have solid axle suspension in the rear, the Safari has it in the front.
When a wheel hits a bump, the beam axle suspension also transmitts some of that force to the other side, and the end result is that the entire axle move slightly sideways, enough to cause the coach to "wander". The springs, whether rubber or metal, don't control this precisely.

This can occur in either the front or rear suspension, although the rear suspension on the Safari is more resistant to this than the front.

This is well known in racing circles, where precise steering is very important.

The cure is a diagonal link, with one end fastened to the chassis and the other end fastened to the axle. Usually only needed at the front end.

Camping World used to carry such an item made by Henderson Lineup in Grants Pass, Oregon.

Henderson’s Line-Up 417 Henderson Street (formerly 417 S.W. Marion Lane) Grants Pass, OR 97527. Phone: 541-479-2882 Toll Free: 800-245-8309

They manufacture a complete line of suspension parts as well as what I have mentioned.

If you call them, ask them also about the Safari Tie rod problem.

My wife wouldn't drive either of our Safari's, our 92 34' or our current 96 40', but after adding the tie rod, she is completly satisfied with how the 40' drives.

Hope this is useful.

Gary

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23187 From: rob shelton Date: 9/20/2013
Subject: Re: Norcold problems
Glad you got your refer going again. We love ours. My escape is the 4 cyl 4x4. It has 97000 miles on it, very clean, we traded our malibu in + 5000 dols. and I put the tow brackets and lights on it. Had trans and radiatior serviced and two new shocks on the rear. Then I was told about problems. Worried me. You have eased my mind tremendously... many thanks..... rob

From: ejn200040 <ejn200040@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 12:25 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Norcold problems
 
Thanks for the input. It looks like I have the problem solved now. I had previously cleaned the burner so yesterday I disconnected the gas line at the valve and blew out the line and oriface with compressed air; reconnected and started the reefer in LP mode. Ran it the rest of the day and all night. All is good; stable flame and maintaining temp.

About towing the 09 Escape V-6 4WD: I'v been towing it since April 2010, 17,000mi until present 44,000mi plus about 35,000mi being towed with no problems so far. I have not talked to anyone who has had problems, but learned that in mid year 2012 that Ford changed their mind on the towability. After that I started changing the transmission fluid every year as a precaution; very easy because of a factory drain plug . I do follow the owners manual ie: maintain fluid level at the low add mark, start the car and put it through the gears, max speed 65mph. I do notice a "hot rubber or belt odor" after it has been towed, not sure of the source. I also had a problem with the battery after 2 or 3 days so I put a charger on it at the end of each day until I installed kit so the battery would be maintained by the coach.

Ed Nelson
2000 Panther/09 Escape

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23189 From: rob shelton Date: 9/20/2013
Subject: Re: Norcold problems
Ed, be sure and check your supplemental braking system. Don't ask me how I know but hot brakes can be confused with kind of odors. rob

From: rob shelton <rrshelton2@...>
To: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Norcold problems
 
Glad you got your refer going again. We love ours. My escape is the 4 cyl 4x4. It has 97000 miles on it, very clean, we traded our malibu in + 5000 dols. and I put the tow brackets and lights on it. Had trans and radiatior serviced and two new shocks on the rear. Then I was told about problems. Worried me. You have eased my mind tremendously... many thanks..... rob

From: ejn200040 <ejn200040@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 12:25 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Norcold problems
 
Thanks for the input. It looks like I have the problem solved now. I had previously cleaned the burner so yesterday I disconnected the gas line at the valve and blew out the line and oriface with compressed air; reconnected and started the reefer in LP mode. Ran it the rest of the day and all night. All is good; stable flame and maintaining temp. About towing the 09 Escape V-6 4WD: I'v been towing it since April 2010, 17,000mi until present 44,000mi plus about 35,000mi being towed with no problems so far. I have not talked to anyone who has had problems, but learned that in mid year 2012 that Ford changed their mind on the towability. After that I started changing the transmission fluid every year as a precaution; very easy because of a factory drain plug . I do follow the owners manual ie: maintain fluid level at the low add mark, start the car and put it through the gears, max speed 65mph. I do notice a "hot rubber or belt odor" after it has been towed, not sure of the source. I also had a problem with the battery after 2 or 3 days so I put a charger on it at the end of each day until I installed kit so the battery would be maintained by the coach. Ed Nelson 2000 Panther/09 Escape
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23194 From: Gerald Poole Date: 9/20/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Cliff,
I have a '97 30 foot Sahara with springs.  I had harrowing experiences with the semi trucks as well as sudden side winds and was determined to solve that problem.  I could not have my wife drive as it was not safe.  Mine was like yours, anything over 55 mph made my unit shift sideways almost getting out of control.  The unit had a safe-t-plus steering stabilizer already installed.  I would have traded my unit for a motor home with a longer wheel base with the generator mounted in front of the front axle but I could not afford to make the change.
My first attempt was to put on Bilstein shocks, little effect.  Second, replace and tighten the sway bar bushings in front and rear (including larger bolts and bushings), little effect.  Install air bags front and rear, some help but did not resolve the problem (I can inflate and deflate on the fly), I learned the problem is not front to rear or side to side motion.   Installed a homemade  diagonal bar (pan rod type bar) off the bottom of the rear axle, some improvement.  I made a homemade front end pan rod system tied to the frame and antisway bar, some noticeable improvement.  Installed a true center type steering system that can be adjusted on the fly that works with the safe-t-plus system (now there is a better unit on the market, look at the Blue Ox center steering stabilizer).  This made an improvement especially when you have a constant side wind or a road with a crown.   I then installed pan rod type bars on each side of the chassis to the rear cross member, MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!  Finally, after seeing the moderators box on the front of  his motor home (look at the home page picture) I installed a class 4 front hitch in front and mounted a trailer shaped aluminum box where I put my tools and other heavy items,  some improvement (I thought it was absurd to carry 700 plus pounds of lead weights in front as recommended by the factory).  Now I can drive at higher speeds and keep the unit under control.  Semi trucks come up from behind and pass me with very little effect.  Even with all my earlier improvements, until I stopped the crabbing motion of the house on the spring chassis I did not get the unit to handle in an acceptable manner.   The cost for all parts was over $1,000 but now my unit is a pleasure to drive.  I hope that gives you some idea of improvements you can make and the results you can expect.
Gerry



From: Cliff Smith <cliff@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
RE:  " Ya don't need a panhard bar with leaf springs. Dwayne"
 
Dwayne,  Maybe that device isn't the solution, but it would be nice to have something for the tail-wagging-the-dog scenario for us with the leaf springs.  I had a Roadmaster steering stabilizer installed.  Afterwards, I noticed a big improvement when hitting bumpy roads.  The porpoising dropped off dramatically and the related lane-wander decreased as well.   
 
But when I'm on I-5 and the semis or other mh's pass me by, I get the push-pull affect from their pressure wave.  I'm always amazed to see other mh's cruising down the highway at MUCH higher speeds that appear to be tracking steady in their lanes.  Me?  Gotta keep it at 55 or less to stay safe.
 
I'm thinking about making a trip to Oregon next summer and adding some extra time to drop by Henderson's for them to analyze the mh and offer up a solution.  Possibly, I'll be wasting our money.  But the blog comments about them tend to be positive and we'd like our little mh.  So I'm hoping for the best.  :-)
 
Regards,
 
Cliff
'98 Safari Sahara 30


Group: Safarifriends Message: 23198 From: paulcell47 Date: 9/21/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Gerald, how about a little more info on your rear pan rod bars? I have done almost everything you have except the front box, still wander a little.  Have rubber springs tho. Pete, '99 thirty foot sahara.


From: "Gerald Poole" <brandipoole@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 6:35:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

Cliff,
I have a '97 30 foot Sahara with springs.  I had harrowing experiences with the semi trucks as well as sudden side winds and was determined to solve that problem.  I could not have my wife drive as it was not safe.  Mine was like yours, anything over 55 mph made my unit shift sideways almost getting out of control.  The unit had a safe-t-plus steering stabilizer already installed.  I would have traded my unit for a motor home with a longer wheel base with the generator mounted in front of the front axle but I could not afford to make the change.
My first attempt was to put on Bilstein shocks, little effect.  Second, replace and tighten the sway bar bushings in front and rear (including larger bolts and bushings), little effect.  Install air bags front and rear, some help but did not resolve the problem (I can inflate and deflate on the fly), I learned the problem is not front to rear or side to side motion.   Installed a homemade  diagonal bar (pan rod type bar) off the bottom of the rear axle, some improvement.  I made a homemade front end pan rod system tied to the frame and antisway bar, some noticeable improvement.  Installed a true center type steering system that can be adjusted on the fly that works with the safe-t-plus system (now there is a better unit on the market, look at the Blue Ox center steering stabilizer).  This made an improvement especially when you have a constant side wind or a road with a crown.   I then installed pan rod type bars on each side of the chassis to the rear cross member, MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!  Finally, after seeing the moderators box on the front of  his motor home (look at the home page picture) I installed a class 4 front hitch in front and mounted a trailer shaped aluminum box where I put my tools and other heavy items,  some improvement (I thought it was absurd to carry 700 plus pounds of lead weights in front as recommended by the factory).  Now I can drive at higher speeds and keep the unit under control.  Semi trucks come up from behind and pass me with very little effect.  Even with all my earlier improvements, until I stopped the crabbing motion of the house on the spring chassis I did not get the unit to handle in an acceptable manner.   The cost for all parts was over $1,000 but now my unit is a pleasure to drive.  I hope that gives you some idea of improvements you can make and the results you can expect.
Gerry



From: Cliff Smith <cliff@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
RE:  " Ya don't need a panhard bar with leaf springs. Dwayne"
 
Dwayne,  Maybe that device isn't the solution, but it would be nice to have something for the tail-wagging-the-dog scenario for us with the leaf springs.  I had a Roadmaster steering stabilizer installed.  Afterwards, I noticed a big improvement when hitting bumpy roads.  The porpoising dropped off dramatically and the related lane-wander decreased as well.   
 
But when I'm on I-5 and the semis or other mh's pass me by, I get the push-pull affect from their pressure wave.  I'm always amazed to see other mh's cruising down the highway at MUCH higher speeds that appear to be tracking steady in their lanes.  Me?  Gotta keep it at 55 or less to stay safe.
 
I'm thinking about making a trip to Oregon next summer and adding some extra time to drop by Henderson's for them to analyze the mh and offer up a solution.  Possibly, I'll be wasting our money.  But the blog comments about them tend to be positive and we'd like our little mh.  So I'm hoping for the best.  :-)
 
Regards,
 
Cliff
'98 Safari Sahara 30


Group: Safarifriends Message: 23201 From: Gerald Poole Date: 9/21/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
It is the same principle as the diagonal rods but they will run from front to rear (one on each side).  You have to make up two brackets to attach on the u-bolts that hold the rear spring stacks together, then make two brackets to attach to the rear house frame that runs from side to side over the drive train.  Then you have to make up the attaching rods.  It requires a fair amout of drilling, welding and fabricating.  You have to do both sides to stop the body shifting.
Gerry



From: "nanandpete@..." <nanandpete@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
Gerald, how about a little more info on your rear pan rod bars? I have done almost everything you have except the front box, still wander a little.  Have rubber springs tho. Pete, '99 thirty foot sahara.


From: "Gerald Poole" <brandipoole@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 6:35:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

Cliff,
I have a '97 30 foot Sahara with springs.  I had harrowing experiences with the semi trucks as well as sudden side winds and was determined to solve that problem.  I could not have my wife drive as it was not safe.  Mine was like yours, anything over 55 mph made my unit shift sideways almost getting out of control.  The unit had a safe-t-plus steering stabilizer already installed.  I would have traded my unit for a motor home with a longer wheel base with the generator mounted in front of the front axle but I could not afford to make the change.
My first attempt was to put on Bilstein shocks, little effect.  Second, replace and tighten the sway bar bushings in front and rear (including larger bolts and bushings), little effect.  Install air bags front and rear, some help but did not resolve the problem (I can inflate and deflate on the fly), I learned the problem is not front to rear or side to side motion.   Installed a homemade  diagonal bar (pan rod type bar) off the bottom of the rear axle, some improvement.  I made a homemade front end pan rod system tied to the frame and antisway bar, some noticeable improvement.  Installed a true center type steering system that can be adjusted on the fly that works with the safe-t-plus system (now there is a better unit on the market, look at the Blue Ox center steering stabilizer).  This made an improvement especially when you have a constant side wind or a road with a crown.   I then installed pan rod type bars on each side of the chassis to the rear cross member, MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!  Finally, after seeing the moderators box on the front of  his motor home (look at the home page picture) I installed a class 4 front hitch in front and mounted a trailer shaped aluminum box where I put my tools and other heavy items,  some improvement (I thought it was absurd to carry 700 plus pounds of lead weights in front as recommended by the factory).  Now I can drive at higher speeds and keep the unit under control.  Semi trucks come up from behind and pass me with very little effect.  Even with all my earlier improvements, until I stopped the crabbing motion of the house on the spring chassis I did not get the unit to handle in an acceptable manner.   The cost for all parts was over $1,000 but now my unit is a pleasure to drive.  I hope that gives you some idea of improvements you can make and the results you can expect.
Gerry



From: Cliff Smith <cliff@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
RE:  " Ya don't need a panhard bar with leaf springs. Dwayne"
 
Dwayne,  Maybe that device isn't the solution, but it would be nice to have something for the tail-wagging-the-dog scenario for us with the leaf springs.  I had a Roadmaster steering stabilizer installed.  Afterwards, I noticed a big improvement when hitting bumpy roads.  The porpoising dropped off dramatically and the related lane-wander decreased as well.   
 
But when I'm on I-5 and the semis or other mh's pass me by, I get the push-pull affect from their pressure wave.  I'm always amazed to see other mh's cruising down the highway at MUCH higher speeds that appear to be tracking steady in their lanes.  Me?  Gotta keep it at 55 or less to stay safe.
 
I'm thinking about making a trip to Oregon next summer and adding some extra time to drop by Henderson's for them to analyze the mh and offer up a solution.  Possibly, I'll be wasting our money.  But the blog comments about them tend to be positive and we'd like our little mh.  So I'm hoping for the best.  :-)
 
Regards,
 
Cliff
'98 Safari Sahara 30




Group: Safarifriends Message: 23204 From: paulcell47 Date: 9/21/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
It sounds like the two that are in front of the front axle, one factory installed and the other by me. I have "Velvet Ride" but I guess the principle is the same. Did you make them screw adjustable?


From: "Gerald Poole" <brandipoole@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 11:10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

It is the same principle as the diagonal rods but they will run from front to rear (one on each side).  You have to make up two brackets to attach on the u-bolts that hold the rear spring stacks together, then make two brackets to attach to the rear house frame that runs from side to side over the drive train.  Then you have to make up the attaching rods.  It requires a fair amout of drilling, welding and fabricating.  You have to do both sides to stop the body shifting.
Gerry



From: "nanandpete@..." <nanandpete@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
Gerald, how about a little more info on your rear pan rod bars? I have done almost everything you have except the front box, still wander a little.  Have rubber springs tho. Pete, '99 thirty foot sahara.


From: "Gerald Poole" <brandipoole@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 6:35:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

Cliff,
I have a '97 30 foot Sahara with springs.  I had harrowing experiences with the semi trucks as well as sudden side winds and was determined to solve that problem.  I could not have my wife drive as it was not safe.  Mine was like yours, anything over 55 mph made my unit shift sideways almost getting out of control.  The unit had a safe-t-plus steering stabilizer already installed.  I would have traded my unit for a motor home with a longer wheel base with the generator mounted in front of the front axle but I could not afford to make the change.
My first attempt was to put on Bilstein shocks, little effect.  Second, replace and tighten the sway bar bushings in front and rear (including larger bolts and bushings), little effect.  Install air bags front and rear, some help but did not resolve the problem (I can inflate and deflate on the fly), I learned the problem is not front to rear or side to side motion.   Installed a homemade  diagonal bar (pan rod type bar) off the bottom of the rear axle, some improvement.  I made a homemade front end pan rod system tied to the frame and antisway bar, some noticeable improvement.  Installed a true center type steering system that can be adjusted on the fly that works with the safe-t-plus system (now there is a better unit on the market, look at the Blue Ox center steering stabilizer).  This made an improvement especially when you have a constant side wind or a road with a crown.   I then installed pan rod type bars on each side of the chassis to the rear cross member, MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!  Finally, after seeing the moderators box on the front of  his motor home (look at the home page picture) I installed a class 4 front hitch in front and mounted a trailer shaped aluminum box where I put my tools and other heavy items,  some improvement (I thought it was absurd to carry 700 plus pounds of lead weights in front as recommended by the factory).  Now I can drive at higher speeds and keep the unit under control.  Semi trucks come up from behind and pass me with very little effect.  Even with all my earlier improvements, until I stopped the crabbing motion of the house on the spring chassis I did not get the unit to handle in an acceptable manner.   The cost for all parts was over $1,000 but now my unit is a pleasure to drive.  I hope that gives you some idea of improvements you can make and the results you can expect.
Gerry



From: Cliff Smith <cliff@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
RE:  " Ya don't need a panhard bar with leaf springs. Dwayne"
 
Dwayne,  Maybe that device isn't the solution, but it would be nice to have something for the tail-wagging-the-dog scenario for us with the leaf springs.  I had a Roadmaster steering stabilizer installed.  Afterwards, I noticed a big improvement when hitting bumpy roads.  The porpoising dropped off dramatically and the related lane-wander decreased as well.   
 
But when I'm on I-5 and the semis or other mh's pass me by, I get the push-pull affect from their pressure wave.  I'm always amazed to see other mh's cruising down the highway at MUCH higher speeds that appear to be tracking steady in their lanes.  Me?  Gotta keep it at 55 or less to stay safe.
 
I'm thinking about making a trip to Oregon next summer and adding some extra time to drop by Henderson's for them to analyze the mh and offer up a solution.  Possibly, I'll be wasting our money.  But the blog comments about them tend to be positive and we'd like our little mh.  So I'm hoping for the best.  :-)
 
Regards,
 
Cliff
'98 Safari Sahara 30




Group: Safarifriends Message: 23208 From: Gerry & Ruth Date: 9/22/2013
Subject: Re: "Wandering"
Yes they are adjustable. Several years ago I travelled with a buddy cross country, he has a 36 foot Winnabago.  He kept his water tanks nearly full to make his rig drive better (he has an air bag system).  This is the same principle as putting 700+ pounds of weight on the front of our rigs to load up the suspension.  On a couple of occasions we encountered strong side winds that lasted for half an hour or more.  I didn't have any trouble driving even curved roads at 55 mph but he was still swerving at 45 mph.  Now that fuel prices have doubled I do not make the long trips as often but when I do, I don't get as fatigued like I did when I was fighting the steering wheel.
Gerry
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 21, 2013, at 2:58 PM, nanandpete@... wrote:

 

It sounds like the two that are in front of the front axle, one factory installed and the other by me. I have "Velvet Ride" but I guess the principle is the same. Did you make them screw adjustable?


From: "Gerald Poole" <brandipoole@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 11:10:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

It is the same principle as the diagonal rods but they will run from front to rear (one on each side).  You have to make up two brackets to attach on the u-bolts that hold the rear spring stacks together, then make two brackets to attach to the rear house frame that runs from side to side over the drive train.  Then you have to make up the attaching rods.  It requires a fair amout of drilling, welding and fabricating.  You have to do both sides to stop the body shifting.
Gerry



From: "nanandpete@..." <nanandpete@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2013 11:21 AM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
Gerald, how about a little more info on your rear pan rod bars? I have done almost everything you have except the front box, still wander a little.  Have rubber springs tho. Pete, '99 thirty foot sahara.


From: "Gerald Poole" <brandipoole@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 6:35:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

Cliff,
I have a '97 30 foot Sahara with springs.  I had harrowing experiences with the semi trucks as well as sudden side winds and was determined to solve that problem.  I could not have my wife drive as it was not safe.  Mine was like yours, anything over 55 mph made my unit shift sideways almost getting out of control.  The unit had a safe-t-plus steering stabilizer already installed.  I would have traded my unit for a motor home with a longer wheel base with the generator mounted in front of the front axle but I could not afford to make the change.
My first attempt was to put on Bilstein shocks, little effect.  Second, replace and tighten the sway bar bushings in front and rear (including larger bolts and bushings), little effect.  Install air bags front and rear, some help but did not resolve the problem (I can inflate and deflate on the fly), I learned the problem is not front to rear or side to side motion.   Installed a homemade  diagonal bar (pan rod type bar) off the bottom of the rear axle, some improvement.  I made a homemade front end pan rod system tied to the frame and antisway bar, some noticeable improvement.  Installed a true center type steering system that can be adjusted on the fly that works with the safe-t-plus system (now there is a better unit on the market, look at the Blue Ox center steering stabilizer).  This made an improvement especially when you have a constant side wind or a road with a crown.   I then installed pan rod type bars on each side of the chassis to the rear cross member, MAJOR IMPROVEMENT!  Finally, after seeing the moderators box on the front of  his motor home (look at the home page picture) I installed a class 4 front hitch in front and mounted a trailer shaped aluminum box where I put my tools and other heavy items,  some improvement (I thought it was absurd to carry 700 plus pounds of lead weights in front as recommended by the factory).  Now I can drive at higher speeds and keep the unit under control.  Semi trucks come up from behind and pass me with very little effect.  Even with all my earlier improvements, until I stopped the crabbing motion of the house on the spring chassis I did not get the unit to handle in an acceptable manner.   The cost for all parts was over $1,000 but now my unit is a pleasure to drive.  I hope that gives you some idea of improvements you can make and the results you can expect.
Gerry



From: Cliff Smith <cliff@...>
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2013 7:44 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Re: "Wandering"

 
RE:  " Ya don't need a panhard bar with leaf springs. Dwayne"
 
Dwayne,  Maybe that device isn't the solution, but it would be nice to have something for the tail-wagging-the-dog scenario for us with the leaf springs.  I had a Roadmaster steering stabilizer installed.  Afterwards, I noticed a big improvement when hitting bumpy roads.  The porpoising dropped off dramatically and the related lane-wander decreased as well.   
 
But when I'm on I-5 and the semis or other mh's pass me by, I get the push-pull affect from their pressure wave.  I'm always amazed to see other mh's cruising down the highway at MUCH higher speeds that appear to be tracking steady in their lanes.  Me?  Gotta keep it at 55 or less to stay safe.
 
I'm thinking about making a trip to Oregon next summer and adding some extra time to drop by Henderson's for them to analyze the mh and offer up a solution.  Possibly, I'll be wasting our money.  But the blog comments about them tend to be positive and we'd like our little mh.  So I'm hoping for the best.  :-)
 
Regards,
 
Cliff
'98 Safari Sahara 30




Group: Safarifriends Message: 23236 From: taknoff Date: 9/25/2013
Subject: Re: Torsilastic Suspension FYI

Mike,   Just new to this group ,cause I just up graded from aTrek to a 2000 Sahara 3006  , that handles badly ,with new shocks, tires, and  aligment ( could not find spec's for aligment ). What did you do to correct the problem.

Thanks,

Greg



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

My coach has been riding hard and bottoming out for the last few years. Last year the steering got pretty squirrelly especially if I hit a bump. After reading the post in this forum about the Torsilastic Suspension, I decided to measure mine. It was sitting about an inch low. I talked to Ralph Andrews from Pioneer Metal before he passed and Ralph recommended that I take it to JoSam Alignment in Orlando. Last week I took it JoSam and they aligned the coach, raised it about an inch, put new grommets on my Hellwig factory installed sway bars, and put on a pair of Pioneer's Tiger Tracks. (JoSam found a crack on the factory radius bar.) This is the first time that I have had any work done to the suspension, other that new Bilstein shocks about 5 years ago.

JoSam did an outstanding job and I would highly recommend them. We had to order the Tiger Tracks and they took two days to get there and JoSam allowed us to stay in their parking lot to dry camp. After the Tiger Tracks arrived they had us on the road in a couple of hours. They are real professionals and a pleasure to deal with; as was the service from Duane at Pioneer. The coach rides and handles like a dream now.

Mike Kohut, 2000 Sahara 3006 w/weights in the front end, 125K Miles owned since new
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23646 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/1/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?

Kelly,


Tell us what suspension you have, as there are significant differences in the parts:


Leaf spring

Torsilastic/Velvet Ride

Air


Likely one of the first two.  If Torsilastic, have you checked ride height-- all kinds of things are affected if ride height is off (shocks bottoming out on bumps, Torsilastic beam bottoming out on bumps, drive line issues, etc.


For the "how to measure ride height": http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I struggled to find published measurements for the ends.  Finally found them on the napa site.  Measure the small taper, large taper, taper length, and both threads.  You'll find yours by looking thru the specs.

That's what worked for me anyhow.

Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2013, at 10:45 AM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 

Hello all,
 
Was wondering if anyone can tell me the vehicle I should reference when looking for front end parts for my 97 sahara magnum chassis?
It looks to need drag link/tie rod ends or something...Not to mention the clunking noise while driving over bumps and such is making me crazy.
 
Thanks in advance,
Kelly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23647 From: kelly kircher Date: 11/1/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
It is a leaf spring susp.

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 10:56 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

Kelly,


Tell us what suspension you have, as there are significant differences in the parts:


Leaf spring

Torsilastic/Velvet Ride

Air


Likely one of the first two.  If Torsilastic, have you checked ride height-- all kinds of things are affected if ride height is off (shocks bottoming out on bumps, Torsilastic beam bottoming out on bumps, drive line issues, etc.


For the "how to measure ride height": http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I struggled to find published measurements for the ends.  Finally found them on the napa site.  Measure the small taper, large taper, taper length, and both threads.  You'll find yours by looking thru the specs.

That's what worked for me anyhow.

Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2013, at 10:45 AM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 

Hello all,
 
Was wondering if anyone can tell me the vehicle I should reference when looking for front end parts for my 97 sahara magnum chassis?
It looks to need drag link/tie rod ends or something...Not to mention the clunking noise while driving over bumps and such is making me crazy.
 
Thanks in advance,
Kelly

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23648 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/1/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?

 For noise in the suspension, be sure all the grease zirks are well-greased on the spring shackles. Also, if the tie rod and drag link boots are shot, they will still last for years of you are careful to keep them greased. Of course, if they have play in them, they must be replaced.  Sorry, don't have part numbers-- if you get numbers, please do post them.


Another "noise trick" is to use the jacks to get the front wheels off the ground.  Then insert plastic shims between the spring leafs-- Clorox bottles are great, free material.


Also, torque the "U" bolts holding the springs to axles:


1.      Torque spring U bolts:  Front 5/8”-18= 120 ft-lb.  Rear ¾”-16 215 ft-lbs


So

S


So



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

It is a leaf spring susp.

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 10:56 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

Kelly,


Tell us what suspension you have, as there are significant differences in the parts:


Leaf spring

Torsilastic/Velvet Ride

Air


Likely one of the first two.  If Torsilastic, have you checked ride height-- all kinds of things are affected if ride height is off (shocks bottoming out on bumps, Torsilastic beam bottoming out on bumps, drive line issues, etc.


For the "how to measure ride height": http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I struggled to find published measurements for the ends.  Finally found them on the napa site.  Measure the small taper, large taper, taper length, and both threads.  You'll find yours by looking thru the specs.

That's what worked for me anyhow.

Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2013, at 10:45 AM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 
Hello all,
 
Was wondering if anyone can tell me the vehicle I should reference when looking for front end parts for my 97 sahara magnum chassis?
It looks to need drag link/tie rod ends or something...Not to mention the clunking noise while driving over bumps and such is making me crazy.
 
Thanks in advance,
Kelly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23653 From: kelly kircher Date: 11/2/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
That's good info. I like the leaf shim idea. Not so sure that's the issue though. I've had leaf noise on trucks in the past and it was more of a friction/rubbing noise.

This sounds like a loose shock almost (whick I've checked) right under drivers side. Most of the steering end boots are toast or just plain gone. I have kept up on greasing. 
After reading a few posts about the jack bushings it has me wondering if maybe its not wobbling around on the frame causing the noise? Is that feasible?  I store my rig away from home so ill have to check it when I get back under it.

So if it is the rod ends should I take the parts off and head to napa to physically match them up? I have a digital caliper but if its bad its coming off either way and obviously I'd rather not drive it too much before its repaired.
 

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 1:53 PM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

 For noise in the suspension, be sure all the grease zirks are well-greased on the spring shackles. Also, if the tie rod and drag link boots are shot, they will still last for years of you are careful to keep them greased. Of course, if they have play in them, they must be replaced.  Sorry, don't have part numbers-- if you get numbers, please do post them.


Another "noise trick" is to use the jacks to get the front wheels off the ground.  Then insert plastic shims between the spring leafs-- Clorox bottles are great, free material.


Also, torque the "U" bolts holding the springs to axles:


1.      Torque spring U bolts:  Front 5/8”-18= 120 ft-lb.  Rear ¾”-16 215 ft-lbs


So

S


So



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

It is a leaf spring susp.

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 10:56 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

Kelly,


Tell us what suspension you have, as there are significant differences in the parts:


Leaf spring

Torsilastic/Velvet Ride

Air


Likely one of the first two.  If Torsilastic, have you checked ride height-- all kinds of things are affected if ride height is off (shocks bottoming out on bumps, Torsilastic beam bottoming out on bumps, drive line issues, etc.


For the "how to measure ride height": http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I struggled to find published measurements for the ends.  Finally found them on the napa site.  Measure the small taper, large taper, taper length, and both threads.  You'll find yours by looking thru the specs.

That's what worked for me anyhow.

Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2013, at 10:45 AM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 
Hello all,
 
Was wondering if anyone can tell me the vehicle I should reference when looking for front end parts for my 97 sahara magnum chassis?
It looks to need drag link/tie rod ends or something...Not to mention the clunking noise while driving over bumps and such is making me crazy.
 
Thanks in advance,
Kelly

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23654 From: Kenagy Randy Date: 11/2/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
We had a similar sound on our 1998 Sahara and it was the front hydrolic jack that was a little loose. It would reverberate through the entire chassis.

Randy Kenagy 
98 Sahara
Frederick, MD

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 2, 2013, at 2:32 PM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 

That's good info. I like the leaf shim idea. Not so sure that's the issue though. I've had leaf noise on trucks in the past and it was more of a friction/rubbing noise.

This sounds like a loose shock almost (whick I've checked) right under drivers side. Most of the steering end boots are toast or just plain gone. I have kept up on greasing. 
After reading a few posts about the jack bushings it has me wondering if maybe its not wobbling around on the frame causing the noise? Is that feasible?  I store my rig away from home so ill have to check it when I get back under it.

So if it is the rod ends should I take the parts off and head to napa to physically match them up? I have a digital caliper but if its bad its coming off either way and obviously I'd rather not drive it too much before its repaired.
 

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 1:53 PM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

 For noise in the suspension, be sure all the grease zirks are well-greased on the spring shackles. Also, if the tie rod and drag link boots are shot, they will still last for years of you are careful to keep them greased. Of course, if they have play in them, they must be replaced.  Sorry, don't have part numbers-- if you get numbers, please do post them.


Another "noise trick" is to use the jacks to get the front wheels off the ground.  Then insert plastic shims between the spring leafs-- Clorox bottles are great, free material.


Also, torque the "U" bolts holding the springs to axles:


1.      Torque spring U bolts:  Front 5/8”-18= 120 ft-lb.  Rear ¾”-16 215 ft-lbs


So

S


So



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

It is a leaf spring susp.

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 10:56 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

Kelly,


Tell us what suspension you have, as there are significant differences in the parts:


Leaf spring

Torsilastic/Velvet Ride

Air


Likely one of the first two.  If Torsilastic, have you checked ride height-- all kinds of things are affected if ride height is off (shocks bottoming out on bumps, Torsilastic beam bottoming out on bumps, drive line issues, etc.


For the "how to measure ride height": http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I struggled to find published measurements for the ends.  Finally found them on the napa site.  Measure the small taper, large taper, taper length, and both threads.  You'll find yours by looking thru the specs.

That's what worked for me anyhow.

Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2013, at 10:45 AM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 
Hello all,
 
Was wondering if anyone can tell me the vehicle I should reference when looking for front end parts for my 97 sahara magnum chassis?
It looks to need drag link/tie rod ends or something...Not to mention the clunking noise while driving over bumps and such is making me crazy.
 
Thanks in advance,
Kelly

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23655 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/2/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?
First question on drag link and tie rod ends is DO THEY HAVE PLAY IN THEM?  If not, and you are just concerned about the bad boots (which have surely failed due to age) I would just grease them frequently.

To check for play is VERY easy, but requires two people.  The easy job is to turn the steering wheel left/right/left (engine off) in ever increasing arcs until you (under the coach) can see if there is play in any of the joints.  Takes less than 2 minutes. Ideal is that as soon as the steering arm from steering box starts to move, even the right wheel (end of "chain") moves.  If not, find out where the play is.

And, if Monaco can't pull up part numbers for you given your VIN, then yes you will probably need to pull them off to match.

Assume you have checked shock bushings (upper and lower) and sway bar end link bushings.

There are no bushings on the front jack-- strictly bolted on.  Only the rears have bushings (2 per side).  Easy to check the front mounting bolts.

Brett

 



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

That's good info. I like the leaf shim idea. Not so sure that's the issue though. I've had leaf noise on trucks in the past and it was more of a friction/rubbing noise.

This sounds like a loose shock almost (whick I've checked) right under drivers side. Most of the steering end boots are toast or just plain gone. I have kept up on greasing. 
After reading a few posts about the jack bushings it has me wondering if maybe its not wobbling around on the frame causing the noise? Is that feasible?  I store my rig away from home so ill have to check it when I get back under it.

So if it is the rod ends should I take the parts off and head to napa to physically match them up? I have a digital caliper but if its bad its coming off either way and obviously I'd rather not drive it too much before its repaired.
 

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 1:53 PM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

 For noise in the suspension, be sure all the grease zirks are well-greased on the spring shackles. Also, if the tie rod and drag link boots are shot, they will still last for years of you are careful to keep them greased. Of course, if they have play in them, they must be replaced.  Sorry, don't have part numbers-- if you get numbers, please do post them.


Another "noise trick" is to use the jacks to get the front wheels off the ground.  Then insert plastic shims between the spring leafs-- Clorox bottles are great, free material.


Also, torque the "U" bolts holding the springs to axles:


1.      Torque spring U bolts:  Front 5/8”-18= 120 ft-lb.  Rear ¾”-16 215 ft-lbs


So

S


So



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

It is a leaf spring susp.

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 10:56 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

Kelly,


Tell us what suspension you have, as there are significant differences in the parts:


Leaf spring

Torsilastic/Velvet Ride

Air


Likely one of the first two.  If Torsilastic, have you checked ride height-- all kinds of things are affected if ride height is off (shocks bottoming out on bumps, Torsilastic beam bottoming out on bumps, drive line issues, etc.


For the "how to measure ride height": http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I struggled to find published measurements for the ends.  Finally found them on the napa site.  Measure the small taper, large taper, taper length, and both threads.  You'll find yours by looking thru the specs.

That's what worked for me anyhow.

Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2013, at 10:45 AM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 
Hello all,
 
Was wondering if anyone can tell me the vehicle I should reference when looking for front end parts for my 97 sahara magnum chassis?
It looks to need drag link/tie rod ends or something...Not to mention the clunking noise while driving over bumps and such is making me crazy.
 
Thanks in advance,
Kelly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23679 From: svenbeck@rocketmail.com Date: 11/5/2013
Subject: Re: Chassis shopping?

Also check your sway bar end links - I just replaced my bushings and the difference in noise and handling was remarkable.

Sven 



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <bawolfe10@...> wrote:

 For noise in the suspension, be sure all the grease zirks are well-greased on the spring shackles. Also, if the tie rod and drag link boots are shot, they will still last for years of you are careful to keep them greased. Of course, if they have play in them, they must be replaced.  Sorry, don't have part numbers-- if you get numbers, please do post them.


Another "noise trick" is to use the jacks to get the front wheels off the ground.  Then insert plastic shims between the spring leafs-- Clorox bottles are great, free material.


Also, torque the "U" bolts holding the springs to axles:


1.      Torque spring U bolts:  Front 5/8”-18= 120 ft-lb.  Rear ¾”-16 215 ft-lbs


So

S


So



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

It is a leaf spring susp.

--- Original Message ---

From: bawolfe10@...
Sent: November 1, 2013 10:56 AM
To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: Re: [Safarifriends] Chassis shopping?

 

Kelly,


Tell us what suspension you have, as there are significant differences in the parts:


Leaf spring

Torsilastic/Velvet Ride

Air


Likely one of the first two.  If Torsilastic, have you checked ride height-- all kinds of things are affected if ride height is off (shocks bottoming out on bumps, Torsilastic beam bottoming out on bumps, drive line issues, etc.


For the "how to measure ride height": http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com> wrote:

I struggled to find published measurements for the ends.  Finally found them on the napa site.  Measure the small taper, large taper, taper length, and both threads.  You'll find yours by looking thru the specs.

That's what worked for me anyhow.

Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 1, 2013, at 10:45 AM, kelly kircher <kkircher55@...> wrote:

 
Hello all,
 
Was wondering if anyone can tell me the vehicle I should reference when looking for front end parts for my 97 sahara magnum chassis?
It looks to need drag link/tie rod ends or something...Not to mention the clunking noise while driving over bumps and such is making me crazy.
 
Thanks in advance,
Kelly
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23771 From: Gerald Larsen Date: 11/11/2013
Subject: Suspension
Hi

I'm new and not sure if I'm doing this right.

We've had our 40' 1997 Seringetti since last Feb.
Love everything about it, except the drive and ride. Almost got rid of it, but I know they did not all drive this bad, or they would not have so many happy owners.
Could some one tell me where I can get specs. On the velvet ride? Where can I buy parts?
I need a shackle u bolt for rear axel, fear I may have to have one made. What shocks do you recommend? I going to have the Bilstiens checked or just replace them. I hope i don't have to replace steering gear, it does not feel loose but I have to make corrections continuously so I certainly have to repair that. I'm still a pretty good shade tree mechanic, but I'm also 75 , so have some restrictions.
Any advise or information would be most appreciative.

Jerry & Loretta Larsen

Modesto, CA



Sent from Jerry's iPad
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23775 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/11/2013
Subject: Re: Suspension

Start by checking ride height ( http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Safarifriends/files/Torsilastic%20Ride%20Height)


Measure it AND count the number of shims at each wheel position. Let us know what you find.


It is possible that Pioneer Metals has the "U" bolts:

Duane 509 787-4425


If not, almost any truck spring shop can get them or make them inexpensively.


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <jerrylarsen38@...> wrote:

Hi

I'm new and not sure if I'm doing this right.

We've had our 40' 1997 Seringetti since last Feb.
Love everything about it, except the drive and ride. Almost got rid of it, but I know they did not all drive this bad, or they would not have so many happy owners.
Could some one tell me where I can get specs. On the velvet ride? Where can I buy parts?
I need a shackle u bolt for rear axel, fear I may have to have one made. What shocks do you recommend? I going to have the Bilstiens checked or just replace them. I hope i don't have to replace steering gear, it does not feel loose but I have to make corrections continuously so I certainly have to repair that. I'm still a pretty good shade tree mechanic, but I'm also 75 , so have some restrictions.
Any advise or information would be most appreciative.

Jerry & Loretta Larsen

Modesto, CA



Sent from Jerry's iPad
Group: Safarifriends Message: 23828 From: Andrew Foley Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404
Hi Jerry,  Here's info on 2001 Serengeti about Torsalastic Suspension and shocks.  Am having mine worked on shortly as have harsh ride on front unit.  Got new Billstien shocks to go on at same time.  Best price I found at shockwarehouse.com.
Good luck  Andy Foley
Monteagle, TN
2001 Serengeti

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Gerald Larsen

Sent: 11/14/13 11:09 PM

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride

 
 

 

Like to get any and all info on just about every thing.  If we hit a small bump, it sounds as though we hit bottom, when driving I have to continually steer.  I found I had a broken shackle u bolt, removed it and one shock, I'm not sure about the shock tension, I'll see if I can find a place to get it checked.  Is  Billstien still considered the best?  I figure ill , be replacing many bushings etc.
 
I had the torsion type axels on the 5th wheel but nothing like this.  Right now we like everything but the ride!  Always open to suggestions. 
 
Jerry

Sent from Jerry's iPad

On Nov 10, 2013, at 7:54 PM, ART <tookum@...> wrote:
 
 

 

What kind of info and parts for your SERENGETI?
 
Art
96 Serengeti
 
 
From: Gerald Larsen <jerrylarsen38@...>
To: "safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:14 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride
 


Sent from Jerry's iPad

 

 

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23829 From: wolfe102001 Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404

When you measure ride height, not only record the height at each wheel position, but also the number of shims at each wheel position-- the shim count in front of and behind each wheel position should be the same.


Post answer to BOTH and we can advise.


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <afoley@...> wrote:

Hi Jerry,  Here's info on 2001 Serengeti about Torsalastic Suspension and shocks.  Am having mine worked on shortly as have harsh ride on front unit.  Got new Billstien shocks to go on at same time.  Best price I found at shockwarehouse.com.
Good luck  Andy Foley
Monteagle, TN
2001 Serengeti

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Gerald Larsen

Sent: 11/14/13 11:09 PM

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride

 
 

 

Like to get any and all info on just about every thing.  If we hit a small bump, it sounds as though we hit bottom, when driving I have to continually steer.  I found I had a broken shackle u bolt, removed it and one shock, I'm not sure about the shock tension, I'll see if I can find a place to get it checked.  Is  Billstien still considered the best?  I figure ill , be replacing many bushings etc.
 
I had the torsion type axels on the 5th wheel but nothing like this.  Right now we like everything but the ride!  Always open to suggestions. 
 
Jerry

Sent from Jerry's iPad

On Nov 10, 2013, at 7:54 PM, ART <tookum@...> wrote:
 
 

 

What kind of info and parts for your SERENGETI?
 
Art
96 Serengeti
 
 
From: Gerald Larsen <jerrylarsen38@...>
To: "safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:14 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride
 


Sent from Jerry's iPad

 

 

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23831 From: Gerald Larsen Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404
Thanks for your help.  I'm not sure just where I take height measurements at. 

Jerry

Sent from Jerry's iPad

On Nov 15, 2013, at 5:47 AM, <bawolfe10@...> wrote:

 

When you measure ride height, not only record the height at each wheel position, but also the number of shims at each wheel position-- the shim count in front of and behind each wheel position should be the same.


Post answer to BOTH and we can advise.


Brett



---In Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com, <afoley@...> wrote:

Hi Jerry,  Here's info on 2001 Serengeti about Torsalastic Suspension and shocks.  Am having mine worked on shortly as have harsh ride on front unit.  Got new Billstien shocks to go on at same time.  Best price I found at shockwarehouse.com.
Good luck  Andy Foley
Monteagle, TN
2001 Serengeti

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Gerald Larsen

Sent: 11/14/13 11:09 PM

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride

 
 

 

Like to get any and all info on just about every thing.  If we hit a small bump, it sounds as though we hit bottom, when driving I have to continually steer.  I found I had a broken shackle u bolt, removed it and one shock, I'm not sure about the shock tension, I'll see if I can find a place to get it checked.  Is  Billstien still considered the best?  I figure ill , be replacing many bushings etc.
 
I had the torsion type axels on the 5th wheel but nothing like this.  Right now we like everything but the ride!  Always open to suggestions. 
 
Jerry

Sent from Jerry's iPad

On Nov 10, 2013, at 7:54 PM, ART <tookum@...> wrote:
 
 

 

What kind of info and parts for your SERENGETI?
 
Art
96 Serengeti
 
 
From: Gerald Larsen <jerrylarsen38@...>
To: "safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:14 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride
 


Sent from Jerry's iPad

 

 

Group: Safarifriends Message: 23832 From: Gerald Larsen Date: 11/15/2013
Subject: Re: Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 404
Just found the attachment about height adjustment. 
Thanks again. 

Jerry



Sent from Jerry's iPad

On Nov 15, 2013, at 5:37 AM, "Andrew Foley" <afoley@...> wrote:

 

Hi Jerry,  Here's info on 2001 Serengeti about Torsalastic Suspension and shocks.  Am having mine worked on shortly as have harsh ride on front unit.  Got new Billstien shocks to go on at same time.  Best price I found at shockwarehouse.com.

Good luck  Andy Foley
Monteagle, TN
2001 Serengeti

 

----- Original Message -----

From: Gerald Larsen

Sent: 11/14/13 11:09 PM

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride

 
 

 

Like to get any and all info on just about every thing.  If we hit a small bump, it sounds as though we hit bottom, when driving I have to continually steer.  I found I had a broken shackle u bolt, removed it and one shock, I'm not sure about the shock tension, I'll see if I can find a place to get it checked.  Is  Billstien still considered the best?  I figure ill , be replacing many bushings etc.
 
I had the torsion type axels on the 5th wheel but nothing like this.  Right now we like everything but the ride!  Always open to suggestions. 
 
Jerry

Sent from Jerry's iPad

On Nov 10, 2013, at 7:54 PM, ART <tookum@...> wrote:
 
 

 

What kind of info and parts for your SERENGETI?
 
Art
96 Serengeti
 
 
From: Gerald Larsen <jerrylarsen38@...>
To: "safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 10, 2013 9:14 PM
Subject: [Safarifriends] Need help finding info and parts for 97 Safari Serigetti, on 4040 with velvet ride
 


Sent from Jerry's iPad

 

 

Group: Safarifriends Message: 24097 From: stuplich@ymail.com Date: 1/1/2014
Subject: Re: Spindle and kingpin
My coach has 132k miles.
How does one know when the king pins, (and/or the shocks) are bad?
What are the warning signs?
Mel
'96 Safari,132k miles
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24245 From: wolfe102001 Date: 1/17/2014
Subject: Re: leaf spring sag

Just went out and looked at ours (1997 leaf spring Sahara).  Only slight arc (higher at ends than in the middle where it attaches to the axle.  And shims were fit (assume from the factory) to level the coach-- present both front and rear.


Not sure you will gain much but spending the bucks, but would suggest one measurement.  Take loose a shock, measure compressed length and extended length and see how "resting position" compares.  If resting position is near middle of shock travel, I personally would not do anything.


As far as body roll, check sway bar end link bushings front and rear.  If you can see any daylight (play) replace them with polyurethane bushings.


Shocks also have an affect on sway, but to a much lesser degree.  Were shocks made stiff enough to control sway, there ride over bumps would be TERRIBLY stiff.


Brett

Group: Safarifriends Message: 24323 From: nullification2day Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: road bounce up front
friends, I have some serious road bounce up front in the coach (up and down bounce).  Some dips in the road cause me to nearly  come out of my seat.  In my toad the dips aren't nearly as noticeable.  I'm guessing I need to replace the front shocks.  I currently have the blue/yellow bilsteins.


Has anyone had this problem and is replacing the shocks the fix?  If so, what model of shocks is recommended?  I'll be taking the coach into a shop to get some other maintenance done, so I'll probably be adding this to the already big tab but it needs to get done.

1998 Safari Serengeti

-steve
Group: Safarifriends Message: 24327 From: daveg Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
I had the same problem when I bought mine.  Velvet Ride suspension.  Les Schwab recommended max pressure in the tires until we learn what was correct and set them that way.  It was so bad that the frontend would bottom out with a loud bang and the bounce would just about throw you out of the seats.  We eventually weighed all 4 corners and set the tire pressure to the tire manufacturers recommendation for the weight.  The problem went away.  I recommend weighing and setting tire pressures before you take any other action.
--
- Dave Guyer 1999 30' Sahara, 300 Cat 3126B, Allison 6

On 2/2/2014 12:49 AM, stevesmithjunkjunk@... wrote:
 

friends, I have some serious road bounce up front in the coach (up and down bounce).  Some dips in the road cause me to nearly  come out of my seat.  In my toad the dips aren't nearly as noticeable.  I'm guessing I need to replace the front shocks.  I currently have the blue/yellow bilsteins.


Has anyone had this problem and is replacing the shocks the fix?  If so, what model of shocks is recommended?  I'll be taking the coach into a shop to get some other maintenance done, so I'll probably be adding this to the already big tab but it needs to get done.

1998 Safari Serengeti

-steve



Group: Safarifriends Message: 24328 From: Mr. G. Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
In my 3198 Sahara I upgraded to the quad shock setup. This gives me TWO shocks at each corner.
Problem solved.
RG
 

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
From: daveg2@...
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2014 07:29:24 -0800
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] road bounce up front



I had the same problem when I bought mine.  Velvet Ride suspension.  Les Schwab recommended max pressure in the tires until we learn what was correct and set them that way.  It was so bad that the frontend would bottom out with a loud bang and the bounce would just about throw you out of the seats.  We eventually weighed all 4 corners and set the tire pressure to the tire manufacturers recommendation for the weight.  The problem went away.  I recommend weighing and setting tire pressures before you take any other action.
--
- Dave Guyer 1999 30' Sahara, 300 Cat 3126B, Allison 6

On 2/2/2014 12:49 AM, stevesmithjunkjunk@... wrote:
 
friends, I have some serious road bounce up front in the coach (up and down bounce).  Some dips in the road cause me to nearly  come out of my seat.  In my toad the dips aren't nearly as noticeable.  I'm guessing I need to replace the front shocks.  I currently have the blue/yellow bilsteins.

Has anyone had this problem and is replacing the shocks the fix?  If so, what model of shocks is recommended?  I'll be taking the coach into a shop to get some other maintenance done, so I'll probably be adding this to the already big tab but it needs to get done.

1998 Safari Serengeti

-steve





Group: Safarifriends Message: 24329 From: paulcell47 Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
Mr G, what kind of adapter did you use for the double shocks?


From: "Mr. G." <prieye@...>
To: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 2, 2014 9:13:49 AM
Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] road bounce up front

In my 3198 Sahara I upgraded to the quad shock setup. This gives me TWO shocks at each corner.
Problem solved.
RG
 

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
From: daveg2@...
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2014 07:29:24 -0800
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] road bounce up front



I had the same problem when I bought mine.  Velvet Ride suspension.  Les Schwab recommended max pressure in the tires until we learn what was correct and set them that way.  It was so bad that the frontend would bottom out with a loud bang and the bounce would just about throw you out of the seats.  We eventually weighed all 4 corners and set the tire pressure to the tire manufacturers recommendation for the weight.  The problem went away.  I recommend weighing and setting tire pressures before you take any other action.
--
- Dave Guyer 1999 30' Sahara, 300 Cat 3126B, Allison 6

On 2/2/2014 12:49 AM, stevesmithjunkjunk@... wrote:
 
friends, I have some serious road bounce up front in the coach (up and down bounce).  Some dips in the road cause me to nearly  come out of my seat.  In my toad the dips aren't nearly as noticeable.  I'm guessing I need to replace the front shocks.  I currently have the blue/yellow bilsteins.

Has anyone had this problem and is replacing the shocks the fix?  If so, what model of shocks is recommended?  I'll be taking the coach into a shop to get some other maintenance done, so I'll probably be adding this to the already big tab but it needs to get done.

1998 Safari Serengeti

-steve





Group: Safarifriends Message: 24332 From: Mr. G. Date: 2/2/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
I have the 3198 Sahara, single slide with the Velvet ride and I love it. The Quad shock modification was offered by, and installed by, Henderson's suspension in Oregon.
 

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
From: nanandpete@...
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2014 11:35:24 -0500
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] road bounce up front



Mr G, what kind of adapter did you use for the double shocks?


From: "Mr. G." <prieye@...>
To: "Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com" <safarifriends@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 2, 2014 9:13:49 AM
Subject: RE: [Safarifriends] road bounce up front

In my 3198 Sahara I upgraded to the quad shock setup. This gives me TWO shocks at each corner.
Problem solved.
RG
 

To: Safarifriends@yahoogroups.com
From: daveg2@...
Date: Sun, 2 Feb 2014 07:29:24 -0800
Subject: Re: [Safarifriends] road bounce up front



I had the same problem when I bought mine.  Velvet Ride suspension.  Les Schwab recommended max pressure in the tires until we learn what was correct and set them that way.  It was so bad that the frontend would bottom out with a loud bang and the bounce would just about throw you out of the seats.  We eventually weighed all 4 corners and set the tire pressure to the tire manufacturers recommendation for the weight.  The problem went away.  I recommend weighing and setting tire pressures before you take any other action.
--
- Dave Guyer 1999 30' Sahara, 300 Cat 3126B, Allison 6

On 2/2/2014 12:49 AM, stevesmithjunkjunk@... wrote:
 
friends, I have some serious road bounce up front in the coach (up and down bounce).  Some dips in the road cause me to nearly  come out of my seat.  In my toad the dips aren't nearly as noticeable.  I'm guessing I need to replace the front shocks.  I currently have the blue/yellow bilsteins.

Has anyone had this problem and is replacing the shocks the fix?  If so, what model of shocks is recommended?  I'll be taking the coach into a shop to get some other maintenance done, so I'll probably be adding this to the already big tab but it needs to get done.

1998 Safari Serengeti

-steve







Group: Safarifriends Message: 24391 From: garysavage17347 Date: 2/7/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front

We too have the dual shock front on our 2001 Zanzibar.  It was made by Pioneer Metal Works in Washington state.  I was told that with the new Koni shocks it isn't necessary.  We haven't changed back to the single so I don't know the results.  I agree that there are a couple bridges that I have to slow down on particularly on I83 in York PA.  Every bridge joint just makes it bounce higher but it I am not going over 50 it is OK.

Gary Savage

2001 Zanzibar

2013 Honda CRV

Group: Safarifriends Message: 24392 From: Barry Whitaker Date: 2/7/2014
Subject: Re: road bounce up front
Mines the same.  Replaced everything but shocks.  Probably will put shocks on soon.   Mine handles like a dream at 50-55, and thats really economical if not in a hurry A lot of times,
Pressed for work schedule, I would like to be comfortable at 65-70.  Ten hours at 65 is a long day in mine.  Doable, but a long day.  It's not handling like it could


Barry Whitaker
Dedicated Services
252-762-8193

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 7, 2014, at 10:57 PM, <garysavage17347@...> wrote:

 

We too have the dual shock front on our 2001 Zanzibar.  It was made by Pioneer Metal Works in Washington state.  I was told that with the new Koni shocks it isn't necessary.  We haven't changed back to the single so I don't know the results.  I agree that there are a couple bridges that I have to slow down on particularly on I83 in York PA.  Every bridge joint just makes it bounce higher but it I am not going over 50 it is OK.

Gary Savage

2001 Zanzibar

2013 Honda CRV